Alternatives to Standard Car Battery

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While researching batteries I saw a few other YouTube videos about jump starting and charging. One guy used the 12 volt battery from his drill driver to start his car. Another guy used ten AA batteries connected in series (with short soldered wires). The idea was to connect the external batteries for about ten minutes just to give the car battery enough extra charge to start. I doubt these methods would work with a VERY dead car battery, but I thought the creativity demonstrated was impressive.

My drill driver uses 14.4 volt battery packs so I'll bet I could use one in a pinch.
 
Perhaps one of these?



With my wee engine a .22 might be enough. I couldn't get any type of ammunition here, but that's obviously not going to be a problem in the USA.

Perhaps a belt-fed .50 cal, to save time?

I used to have one of these:-



Think I only needed to start with it once, but it was nice to know it was there, and useful for valve clearances and such.

Tricky to retro-fit though. Maybe a starter chord? Though that might drag your arm into the engine if you were'nt careful
 
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Originally Posted By: SloopJohnB

And don't forget to add distilled water to lead acid batteries! It's not as easy to do nowadays as years ago, but it makes big difference if you make the effort to access the cells.


Depends what you buy. Here, "old-style" non-sealed batteries with a filling-port for each cell are still generally available, so that's what I buy.

They're a bit cheaper than the sealed ones, but I would actually pay a small premium for them. I'm suspicious of anything claiming to be "maintenance free".

Re AGM's, they seem to offer some advantages, but according to

http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/absorbent_glass_mat_agm

"Automotive charging systems for flooded lead acid often have a fixed float voltage setting of 14.40V (2.40V/cell); a direct replacement with a sealed unit could overcharge the battery on a long drive."

so that'd be something to check.
 
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Hmm. After reading that Battery University article I'm not sure if I would go with AGM, though, it did prove itself to be more durable in my old Honda. That was the "old" Optima, before the move of production to Mexico - others on this forum have stated observable declines in lifespan and function since the change.

I guess I'll just stick with a top rated flooded cell battery. I thought about checking with Mazda to see what they get for a replacement, but as I have read here in the past the replacement batteries sold by dealerships are often not made by the same manufacturers, or to the same standards, as the original batteries.
 
Both of my cars came with AGMs from the factory. Both are still in service. The floating charge is a non issue. Both my cars will maintain 14.1v +-.2v when driving.
 
2008 Hyundai Accent came with an AGM battery? I am surprised, but that's good.
 
Originally Posted By: DBMaster
2008 Hyundai Accent came with an AGM battery? I am surprised, but that's good.
Yes it did. Both did and I don't know why. They were just sourced from the color and options, they came from the Chicago area.
 
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Both my cars will maintain 14.1v +-.2v when driving.


Apparently that can be too much. See above.
 
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Both my cars will maintain 14.1v +-.2v when driving.


Apparently that can be too much. See above.
Apparently not with 8 years on the battery. AGMs usually have a higher gravity acid, this will make the voltage to be higher vs a lower gravity flooded cell. When I worked where they made large industrial AGMs the standard float voltage was 2.15v per cell. But that is less than 13vs when driving.

Personally the Optima spiral cells; though they may be AGM, I don't consider in the same class a a regular flat multi-plate cell.
 
I put an industrial AGM in the Maxima because I got two free ones, and my cable ends were shot anyway.
engine_zpsc1442414.jpg
 
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Originally Posted By: Ducked
Perhaps one of these?





Flight of the Pheonix is an awesome movie and should be watched by anyone who is remotely a gear head.
 
Originally Posted By: asand1
I put an industrial AGM in the Maxima because I got two free ones, and my cable ends were shot anyway.
engine_zpsc1442414.jpg



Rather an unfortunate name, though perhaps only if you are British.
 
AGM makes sense for cars, but I don't know if lithium batteries are a good idea. Ever lock a cell phone in a hot car for a day? It would often ruin the battery.
 
UPG AGM 'universal' batteries are made In china and often rebranded with extra special marketing and shiny stickers.

https://www.wholesalesolar.com/cms/upg-ub-121000-agm-battery-specs-753736796.pdf

These and the restickered clones do not have a low self discharge like quality AGM and barely any better than flooded
They say to limit recharging amps on a deeply cycled battery to 30 amps per 100Ah of capacity. A rate Easily exceeded if jumpstarted and highway driven.

They do not have significantly higher CCA numbers than regular flooded batteries.

They are sealed. That's about it.


If you want a Top quality AGM, go for Northstar, Lifeline or Odyssey.

Deka intimidator AGM are often relabelled, sold under other brand names in Costco, Sams, and Flaps.

They are OK but, even though they claim deep cycle ability, are only rated for ~1/3 the total number of cycles as the 3 top quality AGMS listed above.

Likely not a factor in an AGM used solely as a starting battery.

I'd recommend holding back and waiting out the Lifepo4 drop in replacements. One single under or overcharge event and these batteries are done. They do not come with adequate high or low voltage disconnects/ battery monitor systems.

Please take all marketing claims with several grains of salt and exercise your inner cynic.

If you want to be a guinea pig/ early adopter of Lifepo4 in automotive use, please come back and give reports over its lifespan.

If you deeply cycle an AGM battery whether intentionally or not, Do not trickle charge it to full. AGMS want higher amp recharges and really really require 100% recharges to perform well, to their full potential. otherwise you will not get your moneys worth.
If DEEPLY DISCHARGED,
Apply at least 20 amps per 100AH of capacity until 14.7v is reached, and hold 14.7v until amps required to maintain 14.7v taper to 0.5% of capacity.

Do this and the AGM will impress you both in engine cranking Juice, and longevity.
DO not do this and there is much less of a chance for that occurrence.
 
Originally Posted By: asand1

Flight of the Pheonix is an awesome movie and should be watched by anyone who is remotely a gear head.


Bit off the OP topic but continuing the Petrol-Head-Panavision theme, long ago, on a car forum far, far away, someone asked how to use less petrol (well, they said "gas", but I knew what they meant) while running a heavy truck.

Wouldn't call it an "awesome movie" but its quite a good film, in a stiff-upper-lip sort of way.
 
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Well, it was originally a bit off-topic but now I want to see this movie!
 
I ran this battery in my Taurus for a couple of years. Bought it used off ebay. It was a backup battery for cash registers and was made in 1983. I still have it but no longer use it in the car. Maybe if the AGM battery in my lawn mower ever goes kaput I'll move it there. the lawn mower battery is 14 years old and doesn't even need a boost in the spring.

 
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