AFE (Advance Flow Engineering) has now a non oiled high flow filter called "pro dry" go to afe's web site and check them out.
Air Filter for Gas Mileage?
- Thread starter dgpretzel
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i've run them in all my vehicles without problems...key is knowing how to properly maintain them.
When the piston is into it's intake cycle, my theory is that the less restrictive the air filter is, the more energy will be available to the rear wheels.....however little that may be.
If an engine for example only flows 500 cfm and has a filter that can flow 500 cfm through out its life putting an air filter that flows 600 cfm will make no difference.
Steve,
If you're talking about how much air an engine will consume, yes, you're right. I am talking about the ease in which it enters the engine and how much less effort the engine needs to do it.
If you're talking about how much air an engine will consume, yes, you're right. I am talking about the ease in which it enters the engine and how much less effort the engine needs to do it.
garageman402
$100 Site Donor 2024
Well, I think it only makes an improvement in MPG if you are running a carburetor. Any EFI engine has either a MAF or MAP sensor which tells the computer how much air is coming into the engine. Less air =less fuel to the injectors, and consequently better MPG!! Think of a clogged air filter as a limit on throttle opening, less air is admitted into the engine. A freer flowing filter may even worsen your MPG, because you will have all that new-found power, and, of course, you have to feed the horses something.......
-Bob
-Bob
If the air filter is proper for the engines requirements that is what is needed.
For WOT, yes. But I think it's negligible compared to the restriction across the throttle under normal driving conditions, and if the filter restriction is removed, the throttle will have to close a little more for the same output anyway.
I stick with paper.
garageman402
$100 Site Donor 2024
I did an application search, my $9 Delco would be replaced by a $40.92 AFE
This picking an air filter stuff is a tough one. Making mileage checks can be screwed up by the smallest change in traffic, side trips or just about anything else, and usually you don't remember when it comes time to check the mileage. K&N should be eliminated for daily drivers because, even by their own advertising, commuting is not their real target market. This new Amsoil filter look like the only viable candidate to challange paper, and there are two things to consider. Filter performance and cost performance and how the two might relate to each other. If I could figure out how well it filtered and how it effected a change in my mileage I'd buy the thing because I could judge how cost effective it is. If Amsoil could come up with a better case for their filter I'd buy one. Until then it's better to worry about global warming as soon as it warms up enough to go outside.
Amsoil EaA filter = 100,000 miles. Paper filter = 15,000 miles?
Amsoil EaA filter = $29 to $59. Paper filter = $5 to $20?
Seems to justify itself on cost alone. Plus no driving to get replacement paper filters, better flow and filtration, cleaner oil and oil filter can go longer, less engine wear.
Amsoil EaA filter = $29 to $59. Paper filter = $5 to $20?
Seems to justify itself on cost alone. Plus no driving to get replacement paper filters, better flow and filtration, cleaner oil and oil filter can go longer, less engine wear.
Sounds like a win, win, win situation Tim, Better performance and less money overall using the Eaa. Now if Amsoil would only make a filter for my application, I would jump on it.
I only have a couple things to add...these dry-fiber filters might be OK in some applications, but they would last less than 20k and be useless in mine.
I run a typical paper filter in a modified airbox and it turns black with an oily gook...most likely soot sucked in from driving over-the-road. It will not blow or vaccuum off , so I highly doubt it would be easily removed from a dry-fiber filter. So in my application, a dry-fiber filter (like an amsoil unit) would be a waste of money.
Another thing is that in most applications, the airbox and tubing is the restriction, not the filter itself...I removed a bunch of internal noise baffles and drilled extra holes in the airbox because I was constantly pulling the filterminder into the red with new filters. And now, even with a paper OE-style element, it doesn't move. So knowing your restriction, and not assuming it is the airfilter element, is important.
steved
sdeeter,
With the surplus flow capacity of the Eaa filter, you could afford to use a prefilter with out scarificing engine flow.
With the surplus flow capacity of the Eaa filter, you could afford to use a prefilter with out scarificing engine flow.
I have asked Amsoil if they would consider produceing some sort of prefilter, silly question I know, but no, they have no plans to do so at this time.
Just some FYI...changing from a tru-flo (amsoil oiled-foam) filter to the current paper gave absolutely no change in MPG. While MPG is just one way to tell restricition, it is the easiest for me. I would have expected a significant change, but didn't. The tru-flos are supposed to be similar in flow ratings of a K&N.
Drilling the airbox full of holes netted me the most gain, and significantly more MPG than the filter alone (the filter is only as good as the box it's in...).
The one thing I have over most cars is called a filterminder, which is nothing more than a resettable vacuum guage. It gives a very rough indication of what is happening in the system.
I guess what I'm trying to say in a nutshell is that the surplus flow is useless if the rest of the air delivery system is your restriction...and without any way to guage that, you are just guessing the airfilter is the actual restriction...there flowbench numbers really don't tell the whole story.
steved
garageman402
$100 Site Donor 2024
Harry,
I'm not sure I know what you mean by a "pre-filter"? Like a mesh over the air intake? Or even a K&N? Maybe I have a use for that K&N after all..... a pre-filter!!
The fellow that did the air filter test mentioned the performance suffered with the secondary filter in place, but he was using a strip from a gutted Fram paper element, and it was inside the airbox. Probably affected flow in that location.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest1.htm
-Bob
Some have suggested using nylons as a prefilter. It is placed over the air intake. I have not tried this myself, but it sounds reasonable. Yes, the K&N would make a good pre filter, but good for little else. I just thought that because the Eaa filter has so little restriction, a pre filter of this material would not impede air flow. Of course if they made a Eaa filter for my Civic, who would need a pre filter?
Steved,
I wanted to try the Amsoil foam filter, but after two attempts (they did not fit), I went elsewhere. I did not like the gloppy oily mess antway and shuddered at the thought of having to clean and oil the thing. The vacuum gauge sounds interesting, how do you install it? Ilike the fact that the new Eaa does not have to be oiled and it still flows well, while (most importantly) filtering better than just about anything out there. Alas, no Eaa filter for my application.
I wanted to try the Amsoil foam filter, but after two attempts (they did not fit), I went elsewhere. I did not like the gloppy oily mess antway and shuddered at the thought of having to clean and oil the thing. The vacuum gauge sounds interesting, how do you install it? Ilike the fact that the new Eaa does not have to be oiled and it still flows well, while (most importantly) filtering better than just about anything out there. Alas, no Eaa filter for my application.
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