Air Compressor Question Help

[Sierra048]

I'm not sure this is the proper forum for this question so please relocate it if necessary.

In my garage I have a small room that I made my workshop. My air compressor is in there. Every time I need to work on my cars and need the air compressor I have to back vehicles out of the way so I can get the compressor out and accessible. It's not an apocalyptic event, just annoying. I was thinking of keeping my compressor stationary in my workshop and running some pvc from it to the center beam in my garage where I could just attach my hose and be able to reach both vehicles easily. It would only take about 30' of pvc and a three elbows total. Is this as easy as I make it sound or is there something I'm over-looking? If feasible, what kind of pvc would you suggest. Or, would it be better to use some metal/galvanized pipe?

Update: I watched several Youtube videos on how people/professionals install there air lines. Some use pvc (although all the professional companies warn against this), some have used metal pipe (again not recommended). Others have shelled out the big bucks for professional type systems. I just want to fill my tires and run a few small air tools when working on the cars, lawn mowers etc... Copper pipe seems to be an acceptable alternative and would only cost about $40 total. Can you use compression fittings for this application or do I need to solder everything? I don't want to sink a bunch of money into this project so the high end, expensive methods aren't going to work for me. Anybody have any expertise they might be willing to share? Personal success stories, suggestions or advice?

 

[Traction]

Copper is by far the best, because it helps cool the air. Good time to learn how to solder, which would be much cheaper than compression fittings. It is not difficult. PVC is not better. The million square foot factory I retired from had hundrds miles of galvanized pipe in it though, not plastic.

 

[2009Edge]

What pressure?

Sch 40 PVC with glued joints should serve you for a good amount of time.

 

[Trav]

I used blue stripe (thicker wall) copper pipe and to extend it later i used this, it works great.
Use it after the regulator only, don't feed 175 psi into it. Use copper to the regulator/filter.
The nice thing is no soldering, and you can add on to it easily and needs change. Use 1/2" copper pipe hanger to attach it to beams and studs.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200367525_200367525

http://www.homedepot.com/b/Plumbing-Plumbing-Accessories-Pipe-Hangers/N-5yc1vZbqjc

 

[Sierra048]

Originally Posted By: Trav
I used blue stripe (thicker wall) copper pipe and to extend it later i used this, it works great.
Use it after the regulator only, don't feed 175 psi into it. Use copper to the regulator/filter.
The nice thing is no soldering, and you can add on to it easily and needs change. Use 1/2" copper pipe hanger to attach it to beams and studs.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200367525_200367525

http://www.homedepot.com/b/Plumbing-Plumbing-Accessories-Pipe-Hangers/N-5yc1vZbqjc


Thanks Trav. I saw this earlier on a Youtube video but didn't want to sink $100 into this small project. I certainly won't rule it out if nothing else is viable. Would you use 1/2" in what ever method is chosen? I was thinking that, if feasible, and because it's such a short distance (approx. 25'), I'd like to go the Sch. 40 pvc route since it's cheap any really easy to work with. Cons against this method was it gets brittle and could shatter under pressure. If it was installed outside, I could see this but it will be in a garage that gets no lower than 50 degrees in the winter, if that. I have a well insulated garage. Again, not making light of any suggestions as I really would like your inputs.

Additional question: to those who have a compressor set up at home, do you keep it on at all times and full of pressure or do you turn it off and bleed the pressure after every use?

 

[2009Edge]

I keep mine pressurized all the time. It runs about every 3 to 4 days, sometimes due to temperature changes. It keeps bugs, spiders and humidity out of the system.

 

[Eddie]

I ran 1/2 inch SCH 80 PVC throughout my garage and it handles 125 psi every week or two for the last 15 years without problems. I shut off and drain air/water from my compressor each time I am finished using it for the day. Ed

 

[sciphi]

Black pipe or copper. Don't do PVC, it's not rated to handle air pressure.

What about an additional 50 feet of hose?

 

[flaokie]

Schedule 80 PVC (grey pipe and grey fittings) in ½” has a maximum working pressure of 850 psig at 73°F.
In ¾” the rating is 690 psig at 73°F. The working pressure will go down as the temperature gets colder, but certainly more than sufficient for a garage installation.
Schedule 40 PVC (white pipe and fittings) is rated 160psig at 73°F.

 

[Sierra048]

I tried to find this on line at HD and Lowes and I can't find a price. How much more expensive is the sch 80 vs the sch 40?

 

[SHOZ]

I would not use PVC plastic pipe for compressed air. If it burst there is shrapnel.

 

[flaokie]

Originally Posted By: SHOZ
I would not use PVC plastic pipe for compressed air. If it burst there is shrapnel.

It is used through the industrial world to handle not only air and water, but nasty stuff like concentrated hydrochloric and sulphuric acids. And if you understand what working pressure means then you would see the chance of "burst" are almost non-existant. If you don't like it - don't use it. But don't imply because it's not metal pipe it will "burst".

As for where to get it, you might have to go to a local industrial supply house, or a plumbing supply house for the Sch80 stuff. The box stores usually don't carry it.
It does cost more than Sch40 PVC, but for piping in a garage, not a lot more.

It is a easy, cheap (and safe) way to go, despite what others say.

 

[SHOZ]

I've never seen PVC pipe used in compressed air. I worked in factories all my life. I believe is is an OSHA violation.

Quote:
Transport of Compressed Air

Plastic PVC pipes shall not be a means of transporting compressed air and other compressed gases in above-ground installations. OSHA's position ensues from the warnings of the manufacturers that PVC is inappropriate for compressed air systems. PVC pipes are banned for above-ground transport of compressed air and gases (except where shatter resistant material encases pipelines) because PVC material does not have shatter resistant properties. If employers use PVC pipes and expose employees to hazards, they will be in violation of Section 5(a) (1) of the OSHA Act.



Read more : http://www.ehow.com/list_7263981_osha-pvc-plastic-air-lines_.html

 

[flaokie]

I’m a retired design/field engineer, and have experience piping up 1000’s of industrial, pharmaceutical, and commercial plants for the past 40+ years.

OSHA does call for (or used to call for) encasing PVC if used for above ground air service. This is to protect it, so Joe The Fork Lift Driver doesn’t break it every day when he backs his lift into it, thus producing a piece of flying plastic, that may or may not hit someone, once or twice every decade or two. (This is the same outfit that requires 25 different stickers on every step ladder).

For most industrial plants it is cheaper to use metal than go through the encasing requirements.

We are talking here about using it for air service in a private residential garage, not a million square foot factory with a dozen “Joes” running around.
The piping in and of itself is quite capable of handling this residential service.
I believe "EDDIE"'s post above confirms using it for 15 years for exactly what the OP wants to do.

 

[SHOZ]

Ask the PCV manufactures. You won't find one that recommends the use of it for compressed air lines.

 

[zzyzzx]

I would also just use a longer hose.

 

[SHOZ]

Just make sure the hose is big enough to deliver the air for your needs. Most impact wrenches need 1/2" hose AND fittings to work to their full potential.

 

[Sierra048]

I've spent the past several days reading opinions on PVC for air compressed lines. Opinions were all over the place. Some have had it in their garages, both private and businesses, for thirty or more years without issues. Others have seen it grenade and send splinters of PVC in all directions. Most, not all, of these first hand accounts were caused by someone damaging the PVC beforehand and I understand the concept of this happening.

I priced all the different materials yesterday at Lowes and HD. PVC is definitely the most cost effective. Black pipe would be a pain to use especially not having a pipe threader, and accounts of others of condensation forming and, after awhile, pieces of the insides "flaking off" (there words, not mine). Copper evidently is the preferred option by most from the opinions I've read but is a lot pricier. My wife has chimed in and told me if I don't do it with something "safe", she doesn't want me to do it at all, so she wants me to use copper.

I'm getting ready to go down to the garage and measure, and sketch up everything I think I might need. Then I'm going to go to our nearest HD and make the final decision when I get there. While I'm not a wealthy person, I not destitute either. PVC would probably work just fine since nothing will be placed where it will be in danger of being damaged by something. Copper will probably be the choice if my goal is to keep my wife a happy camper. In my small application it's probably a difference of about $65 between PVC vs copper, not including the connections I need for either route I take. I'll let you know what I decide if any are interested. Thanks for all the input and opinions. It's why I come to BITOG.

 

[SHOZ]

If I were to permanently plumb something in I would look to the plastic piping systems specifically made for compressed air. Similar t the PEX tubing for water used now.

Plumb your plant air system with plastic pipe

 

[DriveHard]

I would just use PEX if I were doing it. 100 psi WORKING pressure (210 psi burst) rating at 180F, and all my tools are limited to 90 psi, so that is were my regulator is set at. If it does burst, there is no shrapnel to worry about. You can use the sharkbite (push to connect) or traditional ring clamps if you have the tool.