Advice needed Switching from 5w20 to 0w20 Chrysler 200

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Jun 11, 2021
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Hello, I wanted you guys opinion on something. I have a 2013 Chrysler 200 with 120,000mi that gifted to me when my dad passed away this is the 2.4l 4cyl that requires 5w20 per the manual. Dad bought it with 90k. Yesterday I took it to the dealer because of a leaking oil pan and the 120k tranny service, (oil leak now fixed)

I have REALLY been wanting to use a High Mileage full syn. I am going to go out on a limb and say this car has only seen Conventional/Syn blend 5w20 oil. I keep seeing at retailers on the 0w20 bottles that it is suitable for a 5w20 application.

Heres my concern and where I want some good opinions.

1. Would you guys even switch to a full syn this late in the cars life? I know people say it doesnt matter when you switch etc etc?

2. With this many miles on the motor if I did switch to a full syn, would it be ok to go ahead and do the 0w20 (manual calls for 5w20?)

I have a chance to get some really good 0w20 at almost 15.00 per 5qt container and it meets the Chrysler 6395 spec. I live in AR, so really hot humid summers and sometimes really cold winter about 20-32f average in the winter. I guess I keep worrying with that amount of miles on it that thin oil will seep past the rings and burn off. I know they are both 20 weights at operating temps but this is why im coming here to ask.

I currently drive a WRX and with the raising gas prices I commute 70miles per day and want to drive this 3-4 days a week so I dont put to many miles on my sports car. I would like to make this engine last so I will listen to the advice here. If I can get more fuel economy from a 0w20 that would be great too!

Thanks everyone!
 
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For 1 and 2 yes on both. All things being equal a 0w-20 will just be slightly less thick at startup so you get slightly better mpg from the get go but once warmed up they'll be near identical. But check the pds as you'll sometimes see a 5w-20 be slightly thinner than a 0w-20. Pennzoil platinum 0w-20 tends to be the thinnest 0w-20 at 43cst kv40.

M1 EP 0w-20 is 55cst kv40 but it's arguably the better oil. But The 5w-20 EP is both thinner when cold but thicker when hot compared to 0w-20. But I'd take the 0w-20 EP over the 5w-20 from it having very little viscosity improvers.

I wouldn't really worry about engine longevity from the oil.
 
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Sure, change to 0W20. There are usually differences that make the 0W20 a better oil anyways, it's been awhile since I've thought about them but they're documented on this board. Use any Hi-Mi 0W20 (even blends) that meet the manufacturer's recommendations, and you will likely never ever encounter an engine problem due to the oil.
 

ZeeOSix

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I have a chance to get some really good 0w20 at almost 15.00 per 5qt container and it meets the Chrysler 6395 spec. I live in AR, so really hot humid summers and sometimes really cold winter about 20-32f average in the winter. I guess I keep worrying with that amount of miles on it that thin oil will seep past the rings and burn off. I know they are both 20 weights at operating temps but this is why im coming here to ask.
Yes they are both rated as a 20 weight/grade at operating temperature, so I wouldn't worry about using either one. Both 0W-20 and 5W-20 are both way thicker when cold than when they are hot. 0W will just flow a little better than 5W when it gets really cold, which in your case isn't really that cold (20-32F average as you mentioned).
 
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Nothing against the OP but this is like 5w20 vs. 0w20 thread number one million that has been posted on BITOG in recent weeks.

I wonder what tomorrow's 5w20 vs. 0w20 thread will be about???
 
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Yes, there are about 50 threads on the meaning and significance of the winter rating (and what it does not mean) and about 49 others on switching to synthetic later in miles. A quick search will reveal many of those discussions.
 
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...
Nothing against the OP but this is like 5w20 vs. 0w20 thread number one million that has been posted on BITOG in recent weeks.

I wonder what tomorrow's 5w20 vs. 0w20 thread will be about???


Yep. It’s like deja vu all over again.
 

dalekinder

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Nothing against the OP but this is like 5w20 vs. 0w20 thread number one million that has been posted on BITOG in recent weeks.

I wonder what tomorrow's 5w20 vs. 0w20 thread will be about???
Thanks man, I appreciate you putting in the energy to come and comment this on my post. Guess that makes it post # 1,000,001. :) No offense taken, I did read through some of them but didnt see something related to my question specifically with my car and I wanted to make sure with the amount of miles etc I had on it. Maybe someone with the same car did it and I thought by posting this they might have chimed in and said they havent had any problems out of theirs. I am in no way mechanically inclined and dont want to ruin this free car and would like to keep in the family as long as I can.

Thanks
 

FZ1

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Texas
Hello, I wanted you guys opinion on something. I have a 2013 Chrysler 200 with 120,000mi that gifted to me when my dad passed away this is the 2.4l 4cyl that requires 5w20 per the manual. Dad bought it with 90k. Yesterday I took it to the dealer because of a leaking oil pan and the 120k tranny service, (oil leak now fixed)

I have REALLY been wanting to use a High Mileage full syn. I am going to go out on a limb and say this car has only seen Conventional/Syn blend 5w20 oil. I keep seeing at retailers on the 0w20 bottles that it is suitable for a 5w20 application.

Heres my concern and where I want some good opinions.

1. Would you guys even switch to a full syn this late in the cars life? I know people say it doesnt matter when you switch etc etc?

2. With this many miles on the motor if I did switch to a full syn, would it be ok to go ahead and do the 0w20 (manual calls for 5w20?)

I have a chance to get some really good 0w20 at almost 15.00 per 5qt container and it meets the Chrysler 6395 spec. I live in AR, so really hot humid summers and sometimes really cold winter about 20-32f average in the winter. I guess I keep worrying with that amount of miles on it that thin oil will seep past the rings and burn off. I know they are both 20 weights at operating temps but this is why im coming here to ask.

I currently drive a WRX and with the raising gas prices I commute 70miles per day and want to drive this 3-4 days a week so I dont put to many miles on my sports car. I would like to make this engine last so I will listen to the advice here. If I can get more fuel economy from a 0w20 that would be great too!

Thanks everyone!
If you're gonna go; Go with a thick 0w-20 like PUP.
 
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Nothing against the OP but this is like 5w20 vs. 0w20 thread number one million that has been posted on BITOG in recent weeks.

I wonder what tomorrow's 5w20 vs. 0w20 thread will be about???
Yep, there is one from yesterday
 
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You will be fine going to a 0W20 and/or in a high mileage as well.
And you can switch back & forth between a 0W20 synthetic & 5W20 synthetic, syn/blend or conventional anytime you want.
I like your move to a 0W20 High Mileage Full Synthetic even in AZ. Use which ever oil you can buy/find at the time that you need an oil change be they a 0w20 or 5w20. Since the difference in conventional & full synthetic prices have gotten closer together, I'd stay with the full syn when possible.
 
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Hello, I wanted you guys opinion on something. I have a 2013 Chrysler 200 with 120,000mi that gifted to me when my dad passed away this is the 2.4l 4cyl that requires 5w20 per the manual. Dad bought it with 90k. Yesterday I took it to the dealer because of a leaking oil pan and the 120k tranny service, (oil leak now fixed)

I have REALLY been wanting to use a High Mileage full syn. I am going to go out on a limb and say this car has only seen Conventional/Syn blend 5w20 oil. I keep seeing at retailers on the 0w20 bottles that it is suitable for a 5w20 application.

Heres my concern and where I want some good opinions.

1. Would you guys even switch to a full syn this late in the cars life? I know people say it doesnt matter when you switch etc etc?

2. With this many miles on the motor if I did switch to a full syn, would it be ok to go ahead and do the 0w20 (manual calls for 5w20?)

I have a chance to get some really good 0w20 at almost 15.00 per 5qt container and it meets the Chrysler 6395 spec. I live in AR, so really hot humid summers and sometimes really cold winter about 20-32f average in the winter. I guess I keep worrying with that amount of miles on it that thin oil will seep past the rings and burn off. I know they are both 20 weights at operating temps but this is why im coming here to ask.

I currently drive a WRX and with the raising gas prices I commute 70miles per day and want to drive this 3-4 days a week so I dont put to many miles on my sports car. I would like to make this engine last so I will listen to the advice here. If I can get more fuel economy from a 0w20 that would be great too!

Thanks everyone!
1. Yes, no problem.

2. Yes, no problem.

I started using 0w20 in my 2008 Jeep 3.8 a few OCI's ago. It is at 170k miles. It can't tell the difference. I did it because I mostly have 0w20 in my stash.
 
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Yeah, I have even switched to 0W20 for most of my oil stash and even in my Altima. This car allows a host of oil grades in conventional, blend or synthetic.
And my owner's manual calls for:
e.g.,
*10W30
* 5W30
**0W20 but makes no mention of 5W20????????:unsure:

* Meaning I can use Conventional, Blend or Full Synthetic
** Mostly available in Full Synthetics although I've only heard of 0W20 in blends and nothing in conventional(which are mostly blends anyway).
 
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I say its 30 grade time especially with a big 4 banger with V8 sized pistons knocking around!

Japanese spec 0W20 have been MUCH lighter than 5W20, but that appears to have changed with GF-6A.
"off the store shelf" lubricants.

I recall Subaru 0W20 had a KV40 of 37cSt at initial release.

VAG 508 Motul 0W20 was 38.5cSt when I purchased it a couple years ago.

whereas your typical Motorcraft blend had an initial KV40 or 50cSt in GF-5 form

Do you think a 13cSt different at 100 degF is noticable? Your darn tootin' it is.

Show me the numbers instead of blanket statements that 0W20 is the same puzzle piece as a 5W20

-Ken
 
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I say its 30 grade time especially with a big 4 banger with V8 sized pistons knocking around!

Japanese spec 0W20 have been MUCH lighter than 5W20, but that appears to have changed with GF-6A.
"off the store shelf" lubricants.

I recall Subaru 0W20 had a KV40 of 37cSt at initial release.

VAG 508 Motul 0W20 was 38.5cSt when I purchased it a couple years ago.

whereas your typical Motorcraft blend had an initial KV40 or 50cSt in GF-5 form

Do you think a 13cSt different at 100 degF is noticable? Your darn tootin' it is.

Show me the numbers instead of blanket statements that 0W20 is the same puzzle piece as a 5W20

-Ken
Go look at the kinnematic viscosity at 100 degrees C on any 5w20 and 0w20. 0w20's have to be (and are) in the same range as 5w20's. The difference would be in low temperature performance, but not by a lot. I believe vehicles with ESS typically will specify the 0w without allowing for the 5w. But I disable ESS in my vehicles so a 0w20 and 5w20 would perform identically nearly all the time in my engines and with the conditions they see.
 
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I say its 30 grade time especially with a big 4 banger with V8 sized pistons knocking around!

Japanese spec 0W20 have been MUCH lighter than 5W20, but that appears to have changed with GF-6A.
"off the store shelf" lubricants.

I recall Subaru 0W20 had a KV40 of 37cSt at initial release.

VAG 508 Motul 0W20 was 38.5cSt when I purchased it a couple years ago.

whereas your typical Motorcraft blend had an initial KV40 or 50cSt in GF-5 form

Do you think a 13cSt different at 100 degF is noticable? Your darn tootin' it is.

Show me the numbers instead of blanket statements that 0W20 is the same puzzle piece as a 5W20

-Ken
Entirely dependent on brand and specific base stock formulation. You made a blanket statement that is just as invalid.
 
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Entirely dependent on brand and specific base stock formulation. You made a blanket statement that is just as invalid.
I gave specific examples of Motul 508 and Motorcraft and Subaru Idemitsu.

You may risk piston clatter and rod rap with the "wrong" 20 grade.

KV100? Many engines run oil sump temps of 170C - 190C So you may be looking at range of 8-12 cSt in situ under "normal stress"" operation, a variation between different xw20 grade motor oils.

That may may a difference in some engine examples with large marginal clearances.

or maybe engine noise is all in my imagination and/or irrelevant.
 
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No worries using 0w20 in place of 5w20. As you already stated both will be a 20 grade at operating temperate. In fact, 0w20 will generally use higher quality base oils compared to 5w20. You mention wanting to use a high mileage oil, I’d say there is no reason to unless you have an oil leak that you don’t want to fix.
 
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The 20 weight oils are only for the US market to help Automakers reduce their CAFE fines for fuel economy.
The tiny fraction of 1 MPG better fuel economy is not measurable.
The switch from 5W-30 to 5W-20 in Ford vehicles has resulted in increased wear on the timing chains.
Even the 2018 Toyota Camry which is speced for 0W-16 in the US, has 5W-30 recommended in other countries (with the same engine) in Europe and Australia.
If it were me, I'd be switching from 5W-20 to 5W-30 to reduce engine wear during severe service such as running the Air Conditioner in the hot summer when car is parked, or when driving at high speeds for long periods when RPM's tend to be higher.
 
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