adding 1qt oil every 2k miles. change oil?

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Originally Posted By: rjacket
Even on their own website they say it is for 5000 miles. How does that line up with your advice that they can go one year?


5000 miles or the OEM recommendation whichever is longer.
That can be excess of 10,000 miles.
 
Originally Posted By: Gene K
Originally Posted By: rjacket
Even on their own website they say it is for 5000 miles. How does that line up with your advice that they can go one year?


5000 miles or the OEM recommendation whichever is longer.
That can be excess of 10,000 miles.


Cheap Fram says 5000 miles. Expensive Fram says 10000 miles.

Don't use filters beyond the recommended life, whether they are oil filters, air filters, filters in your home.
 
I've looked at all the replies so far and will keep looking. Thanks to all who have replied!
 
1 quart every 2,000 miles isn't too bad. I'd try a high mileage 10w40 and change it every 4,000 miles.

Adding oil is not a substitution for changing the oil, IMHO.
 
I have to add a qt every 1k miles after the first 2k. I would still dump the oil and change the filter once a year in your situation.
 
Originally Posted By: rjacket
Originally Posted By: Gene K
Originally Posted By: rjacket
Even on their own website they say it is for 5000 miles. How does that line up with your advice that they can go one year?


5000 miles or the OEM recommendation whichever is longer.
That can be excess of 10,000 miles.


Cheap Fram says 5000 miles. Expensive Fram says 10000 miles.

Don't use filters beyond the recommended life, whether they are oil filters, air filters, filters in your home.


You can call Fram and ask them and they will say all their filters meet OEM requirements and are good for the OEM recommended OCI.

Mobil will also say the same thing about their 10,000 mile Mobil 1 0w40 in a 15,000 mile OCI BMW.
 
A quart every 2K is not horrible.
Many BMW owners regard this as normal, along with some leaks.
I am one such BMW owner.
Anyway, use a decent oil and filter (Fram has always been okay in my past experience, although there were better deals after MIR on P1s and Puro Classics over the summer), add oil as needed, and change oil and filter once a year.
I would check out the PCV system for both a stuck valve or clogged tubing, since this could be the source of some of the car's oil consumption.
Anyway, use it and drive it with an annual change until it dies, which could be a very long time.
Also, avoid 20W-50 in you climate.
Maryland gets pretty cold over the winter.
You migh try Maxlife 10w30 for the consumption and leaks, but a 20W-50 cannot be good for your engine.
I would not use 20W-50 myself, even though it falls within the original recommendations for my old BMW.
Also, if you have worn rings, some sources show that thinner grades can actually reduce consumption relative to thicker ones.
You might try a change using Maxlife 5w30 and see what happens with consumption.
After a period of initial high consumption, it might settle down to a reasonable level.
If not, work your way up through 10w30 to 10W-40, and see what happens with consumption.
Another thought is that you may have stuck rings.
Some memeber report good results with using MMO as an additive to the oil to free the rings, while others have used Kreen to clean things up.
You have a number of avenues to explore in trying to reduce oil leaks and consumption.
 
Originally Posted By: Colt45ws

If you are losing that much oil, it should be pretty obvious. Blue smoke on heavy throttle take off? Oil on the ground where it is parked? Its going somewhere.

In 45 years of vehicle ownership(and that's somewhere around 160), I'm yet to see a engine that's burning a qt in 2K mi smoke, maybe at 1K per quart...

Originally Posted By: dabble

I've been using Advanced dino SJ 20w50.


What is Advanced??? Do you mean Advance??? Their name is not past tense...
 
Originally Posted By: dabble
Do I need to actually drain oil out of pan? If so, how often?

It doesn't matter how much oil your engine uses. As long as you don't fully drain the oil, the gunk and acid keeps accumulating in the engine. You need to change the oil every 6 months / 6,000 miles, whichever comes first, with conventional PCMO. You can go longer with conventional HDEO or extended-performance synthetic PCMO (possibly up to 12 months / 12,000 miles, whichever comes first).
 
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
[ As long as you don't fully drain the oil, the gunk and acid keeps accumulating in the engine.


Only to a point adding oil will reduce this level, eventually there is a average high/low point at the time of each add... Of course the only way to know if the build up is safe is have an analysis done just before a add...

Many large diesels use this method, only adding and changing the filter at specified intervals, complete changes at 50K mi or more...
 
Originally Posted By: TFB1
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
[ As long as you don't fully drain the oil, the gunk and acid keeps accumulating in the engine.


Only to a point adding oil will reduce this level, eventually there is a average high/low point at the time of each add... Of course the only way to know if the build up is safe is have an analysis done just before a add...

Many large diesels use this method, only adding and changing the filter at specified intervals, complete changes at 50K mi or more...

Large diesels are different. They have different filtration systems and they use different oil. 50k mile is not unusual for large-diesel applications.

With PCMO, even if you're able to increase the TBN (neutralizing the acid) by adding oil, you leave the sludge behind. As it was given as an analogy here before, it's like adding oil as it evaporates when making French fries at a burger joint but never dumping the old oil. Now, would you eat those French fries?
smile.gif
 
Any contaminants suspended in the oil will be burned along with the oil that's going out the tail pipe, a engine isn't a giant filter that retains contaminants... As long as TBN stays in a safe zone, I don't see a problem on a burner if the OCI are extended beyond normal...

Worse case scenario would a engine that has heavy blowby thus coking the oil, the normal OCI should probably be followed, maybe even reduced... In a engine that's in good condition with only bad valve stem seals or a leak and using a quart in a K mile, I could see it never needing a full change...
 
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