Added R-134A to AC. Now just blowing hot air???

The proper amount of r134a is critical. Just a couple ounces either over or undercharged and it won't work. This is why the guage on a bottle is a scam. You need to know the high side pressure.
I think that is 100%. The purpose of the bottle is to have a simple way to get it working again, but the gauge isn't meaningful.

imho what does stink about the whole thing, is many cars don't need to have their AC touched during their entire useful life (my Maxima was 25.5 years, right now the Lexus is 18, and the BMW 17--GM is 11.5 and last year I noticed a hiss which I equate to a TXV not low refrigerant). Touching my wife's GM (go figure) didn't accomplish anything, but I did use the manifold gauges and luckily the system didn't work any better nor worse when done...
 
How did that work out?
What did it cost?
Update, they said it has 1.9 pounds of pressure when it should have been 1.2 and -- when they got it to the proper level -- the compressor will not come on. They said it looks like the clutch got fried. At this point I owe them $120.00 dollars. They are going to remove the freon tomorrow and take 25 bucks off the bill. I am not going to throw extra money into the Acura. I have the new Rav4 and can just as easily drive the Baja or Taurus doing the summer months with both having functional air conditioning. Expensive lesson learned, wondering if the Acura has a fuse that might have blown that runs the compressor?
 
Update, they said it has 1.9 pounds of pressure when it should have been 1.2 and -- when they got it to the proper level -- the compressor will not come on. They said it looks like the clutch got fried. At this point I owe them $120.00 dollars. They are going to remove the freon tomorrow and take 25 bucks off the bill. I am not going to throw extra money into the Acura. I have the new Rav4 and can just as easily drive the Baja or Taurus doing the summer months with both having functional air conditioning. Expensive lesson learned, wondering if the Acura has a fuse that might have blown that runs the compressor?
The clutch is electric, would think there is a fuse somewhere.
Not sure how they were able to determine how many "pounds" was in the system if they didn't pull it down yet.
 
Update, they said it has 1.9 pounds of pressure when it should have been 1.2 and -- when they got it to the proper level -- the compressor will not come on. They said it looks like the clutch got fried. At this point I owe them $120.00 dollars. They are going to remove the freon tomorrow and take 25 bucks off the bill. I am not going to throw extra money into the Acura. I have the new Rav4 and can just as easily drive the Baja or Taurus doing the summer months with both having functional air conditioning. Expensive lesson learned, wondering if the Acura has a fuse that might have blown that runs the compressor?
The shop should be able to tell you why it won’t come on. An overcharge shouldn’t kill the compressor. It’s possible, but you probably weren’t that far over serviced that you would fluid lock the compressor

Some systems have a “self protect” that needs to be reset after an excessive high, or low, pressure was seen by the controller.

This often requires the manufacturer software. I would seek a second opinion on this.

And I doubt it was PSI they were talking about. More likely it was lbs of freon. My Mercedes and Volvos use Kg. But the shop machine might be graduated in lbs…
 
The shop should be able to tell you why it won’t come on. An overcharge shouldn’t kill the compressor. It’s possible, but you probably weren’t that far over serviced that you would fluid lock the compressor

Some systems have a “self protect” that needs to be reset after an excessive high, or low, pressure was seen by the controller.

This often requires the manufacturer software. I would seek a second opinion on this.

And I doubt it was PSI they were talking about. More likely it was lbs of freon. My Mercedes and Volvos use Kg. But the shop machine might be graduated in lbs…
You would get another garages opinion? Hate to take it to the Acura dealer???
 
You would get another garages opinion? Hate to take it to the Acura dealer???
Yeah. Sometimes, the experience of a dealer tech (not the oil change kid, a real tech with experience on that type of car) can solve a problem that a shop cannot.

Case in point: AC quit working on my wife’s car. Evap temp high. Replaced the sensor. Still high.

Vacuumed the system, held a hard vacuum. No leaks. Refilled with 980g of R-134a. Still didn’t work. Forced the compressor on with Mercedes diagnostic software.

Worked OK. No abnormal readings.

Unplugged the computer, AC would not work. Before I spent $800 on a controller, I spent $150 on a diagnostic by an MB tech at the dealer.

It was the consumer battery. An H8 AGM in the trunk. Not the smaller engine battery under the hood.

They replaced the big battery. AC has been great for eight months since.

I would never have figured that out and I have all the tools. But I don’t have the tech’s experience.
 
Just ran down to my regular garage that is "always" busy busy. Took it to a another local garage here in town. Regular garage mechanic said to stop down after work on Thursday, he will see if it is the relay. He also said, Honda/Acura are notorious for going through compressors. So, going to let them drain the freon tomorrow to lower the bill and take it to my normal garage on Thursday after work. I THANK everyone for there feedback and help. Will report back on Thursday --- some time.
 
Some systems have a “self protect” that needs to be reset after an excessive high, or low, pressure was seen by the controller.

This often requires the manufacturer software. I would seek a second opinion on this.

This was my first thought as well. I do not have access to official Acura procedures but Alldata is not showing any specific procedure for overfilling and a reset, but that doesn't mean there isn't one. It's an 08 so maybe to early for that advanced of a system. Did the shop say how they determined the clutch was damaged? Did they resistance check the clutch coil itself? Check the fuse/relay? Did the bearing get damaged?

So something to be wary of with just deciding to leave it alone and drive it in winter. I would still have them fully charge and oil the system. Having the clutch "fried" so it's not engaged, so it's electrical not an overloaded and damaged bearing? If the clutch does decide to engage or if the bearing locks up, if the system is not full and properly filled with oil the compressor will eat itself....seize.......and burn through your drive belt. Not fun loosing power steering, electrical power not to mention cooling while driving down the road. A good caution would be to pull the fuse/relay for it to avoid any accidental activations.
 
Actually just called the garage that worked on my car and asked if they checked the relay. Said that was the first thing they did and it was fine. Said that if you shine a light down on the clutch -- it looks crystallized and he says its fried.
 
Last edited:
Actually just called the garage that worked on my car and asked if they checked the relay. Said that was the first thing they did and it was fine. Said that if you shine a light down on the clutch -- it looks crystallized and he says its fried.
And they just told you that now?
 
And they just told you that now?
Yes, when I called them back and asked about the relay. They did say initially the clutch was fried when I stopped down after work. Did not go into detail about the relay though. I am still going to take it to my regular garage on Thursday for a 2nd opinion.
 
Last edited:
Yes, when I called them back and asked about the relay. They did say initially the clutch was fried when I stopped down after work. Did not go into detail about the relay though. I am still going to take it to my regular garage on Thursday for a 2nd opinion.

You could remove the relay and bench test it.
 
There's almost always another relay of the same type in the box for something like the rear defogger. Swap the relays and see if the A/C works.

It's probably worth $25 to have the refrigerant in there knowing it is properly charged when you or another shop start troubleshooting. This is likely a problem that can be fixed without opening the refrigerant system.
 
Stopped at my normal mechanic yesterday. Got his flashlight out and pointed out to me that all the black stuff at the front of the clutch --- its fried. Just going to be driving the Subaru in signature more often in the summer for the time being to work and back. Not worried about the weekends, Rav4 has me covered.
 
Back
Top