: “No one, and I mean NO ONE, seems to be able to answer how leaving oil with elevated wear metals in for extended mileage is good for bearings? How does leaving oil with triple digit wear metals floating around in it for 5000 miles help the engine? ”
“It’s not hard to find oils that have generous amounts of moly!”
, I can’t give you a definitve
answer but I sorta addressed this point in my post a little above yours. I’m not sure many how many UOAs show “triple digit wear metals” (aside from GM V8s and their copper) but they often show double digit numbers … and that isn’t a really good thing.
The manufacture of engines these days is as precise as ever and I’m guessing the hoggin’ chunks of slag which used to come tumbling out of the drain hole are (mostly) a thing of the past. What does wear off and end up in the oil (the bigger bits) is caught by the oil filter. OK, so what about the oil filter clogging prematurely and going into bypass mode from the initial (accelerated) wear?
Well, those of us who are refugees from the Edmunds forum (Bobis, Al, Spector, WTD, ZR2Rando
, and others) knew a guy (Tom – TSJAY) who worked for a filter media manufacturer in northern Jersey and he had told us that the filters are really over-engineered to gobble up ungodly amounts of particulate matter and continue to do their job. He cited genuine test data, etc … at the time. So, in just a few thousand (3,000 – 6,000) miles I wouldn’t be too worried about them clogging and/or bypassing … again, keeping in mind the break-in debris is much less than it was 20+ years ago.
Yes, it’s true that many oils these days … even white/private label oils sold by Walmart and others use moly and this wasn’t
true when Honda’s recommendation regarding the break-in oil became widespread (2000? 2001?) Many 5W20s have around 200-300PPMs of moly in them … but this is shy of the ~1,000PPM for the factory oil. But, I’ve tried to discuss this before; How does the concentration of moly in an oil affect the “uptake” of molybdenum? Say, the difference between Castrol GTX (~50PPM) and Schaeffer (~200PPM) … or Schaeffer vs. Red Line (~600PPM). No one answered me at the time so I still don’t know.
I’m guessing the rate-of-uptake is
affected by concentration which is why Red Line uses so much … but that’s just a guess on my part.
Anyway, that’s why I would compromise a bit and dump the factory oil sometime after the 3,000 mile mark. Most break-in has occurred and the extreme “uptake” is no longer needed. Currently available oils (especially 5W20s) have the adds to get the job done and you are not circulating particle-rich used oil throughout the motor.
, No, I wouldn’t think that Honda would pass along “bad” info/advice on how to break the motor in … but I would
expect them to give us “dumbed down” or “one-size-fits-all” advice … and, in fact, that’s what they do. The same cars overseas have different viscosity recommendations for different temperatures except the country with one of the most extreme spreads of climate (United States) gets one recommendation for all. Doesn’t really make a whole lot of sense to me.
So, I think just about anyone will be “OK” following the manufacturer’s (Honda’s) advice, but I think you can do better if you have the right info and put a little thought and effort into it. Significantly? Maybe not.
And, as I’ve stated before, I think that Honda’s recommendation is dated and does not take into consideration the “spurt” (pardon the pun
) of oil formula changes (addition of moly) in the past 2 years. So, I don’t take it as gospel.
--- Bror Jace