Accord ATF drain/fill pic - do I have a problem?

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Originally Posted By: rk1407
I found the link to the ATF calculator.

http://milleniatech.net/atfchange/download.php?f=atf-calc.xls

According to this info it will take you 6 drain and fills to have 95% new fluid.

Total ATF capacity: 6.4
Amount replaced each drain and fill: 2.6


Thus why people do a cooling line flush. Easier than dropping the pan (if no drain plug) and cheaper and more green. If it was expensive top shelf ATF like Amsoil, you'd
need to be a little crazy to do 6 drain & fills. Your last drain & fill you are tossing out ATF that is about 90% new to get to 95% new.
 
Sorry if this is a threadjack, but I have to ask:

Why does American Honda strongly recommend against doing transmission flushes? I realise they aren't the same units, but the factory service manual for the Crown Vic says that flushing IS the recommended way. Please note that I'm not talking about so-called "power-flush" or reverse flushing or any of the other myths...I assume we're all talking about fluid exchange machines that use the transmission's own pump to do the work.
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Most of the Honda transmissions I have serviced have dark fluid.



+1 the fluid is doing its job. I don't see anything wrong with the fluid you have. Keep up the good work!
 
Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
Actually there is an exact science, it is posted in the Honda service news article which you can see in the attachment on this post on a Honda forum.

http://www.civicforums.com/forums/posts/...571-post33.html



There are so many of these Honda ATF flush threads! The question is: exactly what does Honda mean by the term "aftermarket flush machine"? I believe they are talking about flushing/back flushing using an external pump. Flushing using the trans' own internal pump to drain old ATF from a disconnected cooler hose MUST be perfectly ok.
 
Originally Posted By: RF Overlord
Sorry if this is a threadjack, but I have to ask:
Why does American Honda strongly recommend against doing transmission flushes? I realise they aren't the same units, but the factory service manual for the Crown Vic says that flushing IS the recommended way. Please note that I'm not talking about so-called "power-flush" or reverse flushing or any of the other myths...I assume we're all talking about fluid exchange machines that use the transmission's own pump to do the work.

I think you answered your own question. IMO, many folks wouldn't/don't know the difference between a power flush/reverse flush and the more passive fluid exchange method using the trans pump also shown on a DIY youtube. Thus, to avoid any confusion they just pass on anything resembling the word flush which can mean many things. At least, that's my take.

Originally Posted By: DuckRyder
Actually there is an exact science, it is posted in the Honda service news article which you can see in the attachment on this post on a Honda forum.
http://www.civicforums.com/forums/posts/...571-post33.html

If you go back and read that whole thread what's ironic about that post, is that Honda-99 rejected an acceptable ATF fluid exchange diy youtube method at least in part because the previous poster convinced him that it would damage his transmission if he did a "flush". His actual suggestion was "just leave it with the old fluid and hope it lasts for a while". LOL

As for the linked pdf, IIRC I've seen that posted here before, but honestly for the average joe diy, not having a lift and going through that procedure even once isn't practical and perhaps more important not safe without a genuine lift. And, I really wonder how many Honda dealerships follow the pdf. procedure with a d&f's?

I found an actual driving procedure here after a d&f which simulates the lift procedure, but with no lift required. It's basically what I have done, and it's worked fine.

As for the OP, I agree with those that say you're fine. If it's shifting fine, your 3x d&f procedure should lighten up the ATF plenty good for a while. As comparison, I've done single Z-1 d&f's at ~25k interval on a 01 Civic AT and it's still shifting fine at 166k, knock wood.
 
On mine, I'm simply doing one 3-quart drain/fill once every 5,000 miles (every oil change) until I'm satisfied with the condition of the fluid. Our Acura had about 70,000 miles on the original fluid when I started doing that, and it has 82,000 miles on it now. I'll do one more 3-quart drain/fill at 85,000 and then proceed at easy-to-remember 15,000 mile increments after that. 100k, 115k, 130k, etc.

Same with the Honda. I'm just turning 60,000 on it. I did two 3-quart drain/fills just a few weeks ago, and will continue with one 3-quart drain/fill at 65k and 70k. Then every 15k after that to get it on the same schedule as the Acura (85k, 100k, 115k, etc).

I'm a big fan of keeping stuff on easy-to-remember mileage increments. I still record everything I do on the vehicles in a small book kept in each one, but if the schedule is easy to remember, I don't have to consult the book all the time to see when the next service is.
 
Here's an update: did my 3rd drain and fill last night. It has been about 2 weeks and 500 miles since the 2nd D&F. Updated pic below.

The magnetic plug was very clean. The color of the drained ATF is still very dark, which concerns me. The good part is the color seems to be more dark red rather than brown/black. The smell was better too -- less burnt.

I'm a little surprised it's still so dark at this point. Is this a normal color for the 3rd drain?

aNKDE.jpg
 
Not a concern. You are doing everything right. I would do it once more (twice if you really love it) and then add a bottle of Lubegard red. Also maybe a Magnefine filter as someone mentioned. Be sure to use a new crush washer on the plug.

You probably just doubled the life of this car........ or at least the transmission.
 
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Yes, you're doing the right thing by changing the ATF in your HONDA. Do this with all of the fluids...P/S fluid, coolant, brake fluid. What oil/filter have you decided on? Typicaly, Hondas can use just about any oil/filter as they don't seem to be fussy.

Although, make sure that you use only Honda P/S fluid in that system, stay with the DW-1 ATF(Multi-Vehicle ATFs may also be recomended), use any DOT-3 brake fluid(others may disagree and like Honda Brake Fluid) and use either Honda Genuine Coolant or PEAK GLOBAL, ZEREX Asian or what others here may recomend(GO-5?)

And actually, the 1st drain ATF really didn't look abnormal although, sure it needed to be changed out. And we can diffinately see the differences with every Drain & Refill!
 
Given that you have done three D&F, what is couple more? Keep on doing what you have been doing i.e. do at least one more D&F and then check in another 500 miles. But this time do a comparison between 50 miles vs 500 miles after the fill. You do not ever want to have burnt smell to the fluid. Slight color change is OK. Burnt smell implies irreversible damage.
 
you are fine..... you could go more than 500 miles. I would do what others have said and drain/refill at each of the next few oil changes.... my accord AT is now at 427,500 miles.
 
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