You're on track with Pennzoil, I would work NAPA engine flush into your routine it's easy to get and effective at a manageable cost, $4.49 in my area.
Absolute best sludge/varnish cleaning CONVENTIONAL oil..
- Thread starter joshuawesl
- Start date
- Status
The question is does it actually gain you anything?
Both of these are API SN+ GF-5 5W-30:
I'm just going to give percent of base to nearest 10% as opposed to total including additive and carrier to avoid any confusion.
These are example oils I happen to have a general idea of and DO NOT represent GTX or Pennzoil.
GII 60% / GIII 40% - 15% Noack
GII+ 70% / GIV 30% - 10% Noack
My point is the quality of the GII and GIII/IV/V you use will effect how much of the GIII and above you have to use to meet various specifications. The highest amount of "Synthetic" may not even be the best base much less fully formulated oil. Of course you have other issues like the viscosity of the bases you are trying to use but I'm trying to keep it simple.
Sounds good. I'd stick with the Rislone and give it another shot next time around, you may have cleaned up the ring packs too. Two back to back doses might get things nice and clean. You can't go wrong for the cost of it either.
Well me personally, I am just looking for as “pure“ of a group II 5w30 I can find if that even exists.
https://www.infineuminsight.com/en-gb/articles/base-stocks/
They sell to a lot of non Exxon Mobil blenders.
I believe to make a straight Group II it would have to be a high GII ie GII+. Pennzoil was through SN. Chevron might be. Quaker State might be. Mobil Super might be all EHC (Group II and II+). I don't know if anyone can tell you for sure. I mean they can call GIII conventional or synthetic.
May I ask why you are trying to avoid Group III?
I believe Schaeffer's 7000 is GIII free but you would have to live with the Group IV PAO they replace it with.
I intend to throw some HiMi Rislone in for the next change too, as soon as the Valvoline Daily Protection burns down a bit. Always found VWB to burn off a bit in any car I've used it in. Interesting the OP wants to use conventional, I'd be using full synthetic except I'm a geezer living in a condo where they'd send me a warning letter if I was seen under the car, haven't changed my own oil in 25 years. If I did, it would be a no-name syn like WPP all the way. However, in addition to not being able to drop my own, I have a bunch of $10 oil, filter and rotate coupons to burn through.
I, too, am curious about the OP's aversion to Group III. Don't think you're going to get many SN+/SP oils that meet standards with just Group II other than the above referenced XOM, and I'm not even sure that's a go with the new SP standards. You're not one of those people who complains about Valvoline Daily Protection being a blend on Amazon are you?
A 10w30 should be an easier find for a pure conventional than a 5w20-30.
A 10w30 should be an easier find for a pure conventional than a 5w20-30.
This is as good a place to put this comment as any. It seems when I got on here in 2002 there were a lot of comments that the add pack was more important than the base oil and that a strong conventional like PYB was the way to go. Don't here that much any more.
Dollar for Dollar I would take Schaeffer's 5W-30 Blend (Group II+/PAO) over many "standard" Synthetics so I don't think that's changed. The problem is I can buy M1 ESP cheaper so it's a money issue not a base issue.
For my next oil change I’d like to go with as conventional of a oil as I possibly can and see for myself whether or not it makes a difference in a couple of leaks I have.
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Check the VI in the PDS sheets. The lower the VI, the more likelihood of it being a conventional.
https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29113/base-oil-groups
https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29113/base-oil-groups
If you really want to break down sludge,varnish and carbon I would look for a healthy dose of ester in my oil. Valvoline was selling a highly concentrated mostly ester oil for cummins carbon issues, $$$. Or maybe Red Line white bottle for a couple thousand miles followed by previous suggestions.
Why conventional oil? If you are wanting to save money, why not use Marvel Mystery Oil and some 2-3k oil change intervals with whatever conventional is on sale?
Said this earlier on this thread. Tried MMO, (so far) liking HiMi Rislone for oil use. Don't think it's leaking though.
For a 5w30 is a VI of around 140 a good indicator of conventional?
wemay
Site Donor 2023
I don't think you'll find any "Conventional" 5w30 anymore. Historically conventional 5w20 and 5w30 are now labeled on the packaging and/ or described in the PDS as "Synthetic Blend".
The closest you'll get may be with more viscous grades, i.e., 10w30/40 and up.
The closest you'll get may be with more viscous grades, i.e., 10w30/40 and up.
If I had to take a stab at it I would go with Quaker State 10W-30 SN/SN+. However I highly doubt it will accomplish anything Valvoline MaxLife Blend couldn't.
I don't have any confidence that any 5W-30 is going to be completely GIII free.
I don't have any confidence that any 5W-30 is going to be completely GIII free.
So I went with my gut and returned the GTX for Pennzoil 10W30 HM. Same price, but I know the Pennzoil has a proven track record of cleaning. I'm really unsure just how much sludge/build up is in there, and I think gently removing it over time will be best. Dropping the oil pan is time consuming (axle and rack and pinion have to be lowered).
SuperTech filters are cheap, so I'm going to buy several to keep on hand and change the filter every 1,000 miles or so, and do 3,000 mile OCI's to try and get out what I can without knocking a bunch of crap loose at once.
SuperTech filters are cheap, so I'm going to buy several to keep on hand and change the filter every 1,000 miles or so, and do 3,000 mile OCI's to try and get out what I can without knocking a bunch of crap loose at once.
Donald said above, "...if gooey how about a gallon of a solvent like mineral spirits in a pump sprayer spraying the area over and over let it drip into the oil pan which has the drain plug out and a catch pan below. Engine off."
As a subsequent step to this I'd catch the drained solvent, run it through cheese cloth if necessary then reinstall the drain plug and do it again. This time let the solvent sit in the pan so it soaks the pick-up screen.
New engines should have fiberoptic viewing holes from the factory so guess work could be eliminated.
As a subsequent step to this I'd catch the drained solvent, run it through cheese cloth if necessary then reinstall the drain plug and do it again. This time let the solvent sit in the pan so it soaks the pick-up screen.
New engines should have fiberoptic viewing holes from the factory so guess work could be eliminated.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
