About using that MMO/ATF mix..

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My dad has a 98 Taurus with the old 3 liter Vulcan that he tells me is starting to rattle a bit before it's warmed up and the gas is pressed while it's in gear. He put a tank of 91 octane fuel plus a bottle of STP fuel cleaner in it and he says he notices a bit of a difference. It isn't an engine rattle as he held the engine at about 5500 rpm in neutral with the hood open, and drove in 1st gear at about 5500, and we couldn't detect any rattle. I was thinking maybe there's some carbon buildup on the pistons or valves? I then thought to myself that maybe that MMO/ATF mix that's been discussed on here might help his engine. What would the proper blend be for a 16-17 gallon tank of fuel?
 
I'd just use the MMO and skip the ATF.
I put a whole Quart in 21gallons, thats about 4times the recomended dose. 16oz would probably be plenty. The recomended dose is 4oz/10gal. Maybe run a couple tanks back to back.
 
Well, you don't have to go radical right off the bat (that is don't follow me of the cliff just because I managed to land on my feet). Why not just try a pint of the stuff in the tank and see what happens? It's cheap enough and you may be able to get the results that you want without spending any more than necessary. If you don't get the results that you would like, then up the add amount by 50% or so and then see what happens.

This may give you the results you seek. You can then decide how you want to maintain that level of combustion chamber cleanliness. At some point I would like to check out FP to see if it can keep me at that "one bump of the key" starting that I got with my mega dose of MMO.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Gary Allan:
Well, you don't have to go radical right off the bat...

Unless, of course, you're ME!
grin.gif
 
We have a 93 and 99 Taurus (the 99 is sure to be a collectable as it's the last year of the oval design :^), and run premium in both in order to minimize pinging. We live on a hill, which seems to make it more noticeable. I just finished running two bottles of Techron fuel system cleaner thru the 93 (it has almost 190k miles) and although it still pings going up the hill with 'plus' it doesn't ping with premium. I need to treat the 99, and may try MMO in it.
 
I've got a 3.0 vulcan and it would ping if I didn't use 92+ octane gas. Running on 87 octane was terrible.

I started using FP and Lucas UCL. Pinging started to decrease with 87 octane but still there. After say 3,000 miles with FP, pinging became seldom and after 6,000 miles almost gone. After 15,000 miles of FP/Lucas UCL, it very rarely pings and only on very hot days driving on hills. I tried going back to 92 octane to see any difference. It ran sluggish or maybe I had a bad tank of gas. I didn't like it. I use 87 octane now and MPG is back to original performance. In fact, I use FP or Lucas UCL on every 4th tank and no pinging as great performance.

Every chance I have, when engine oil is at operating temp, I'll go into 2nd /3rd gear on a mountain slope so there is load on the engine and burn off carbon and rinse the rings clean. That helps also. Engine runs very well on 87 octane.
 
I recently ran about 16 gallons of gas with 1 pint of MMO and 1 quart of ATF with premium gas. Now on this tank full I am running a quart of MMO with 87 octane. I'd love to see how clean my pistons and heads are when I am done.
I don't think I really needed it because back a few months ago I used a Seafoam treatment.
I got the idea of MMO and ATF from Gary Allen, but I didn't want to go as radical as he did.
 
I experimented with MMO in a 1991 Plymoth Laser. I did see where it helped or hurt that transmission at all. The fluid was always changed out ever 15,000 miles so it was never dirty. Shift quality and characteristics did not change one bit. This trany had a really small sump and I put a full quart in it! I also added a quart to my P/S system on an 1986 4Runner as part of a trail fix. THe P/S pump lasted 16 years total and about 6-8 years after the MMO was put in. That MMO stayed in the unit until the pump bearing started to whine. When I removed to old pump and put a "newer" junk yard pump on I refilled with ATF.

I am not a huge fan of MMO now that we have LC and Auto-Rx but MMO is not going to kill anyting either.

My local A&P mechanic at the airport has been adding a quart of MMO to every oil change in his late 1980's Ford Tempo since the day he bought it! IT still runs like a top wich is truly incredable as the Tempo especialy from the 1980's were not know for their long life!!! THe rest of the car has rotted away but the engine still runs good.
 
Quote:
My local A&P mechanic at the airport has been adding a quart of MMO to every oil change in his late 1980's Ford Tempo since the day he bought it!
================================================

What weight does he use
4- 10W-40
1- MMO
??????????????
 
quote:

Originally posted by 1sttruck:
(it has almost 190k miles) and although it still pings going up the hill with 'plus' it doesn't ping with premium. I need to treat the 99, and may try MMO in it.

My F-150 pinged when I bought it used (119K miles) on 89 octane. I found after changing the catalytic converter the pinging when away. Seems not being able to exhaust the cylinders effectively might have been heating the heads up.

I only mention this because I think a lot of people over look this possibility.
 
I only mention this because I think a lot of people over look this possibility.


A faulty cat can cause some symptoms that you wouldn't normally think of. Yes, it's overlooked. I pretty much haven't heard much "odd" cat failures since the mid 70's ..to early 80's. The usual cat failures are just disintegration of the interior ..and it plugging the outlet. Jeeps are notorious for this in the YJ line.
 
Some of the early sable/taurus engines would blow head gaskets from plugged cats backing up too much heat into the head. Shops would unknowingly fix the gasket and not address the problem. After a couple of times the heads would be badly warped and need replacment. Sometime it would cause overheating and the cooling system would get blamed. Can't recall which year/engine sorry, seems like it would happen mostly to the pass side, closer to the cat. Usually if a cats clogged this bad it won't let a lot of heat past it. You can feel a lot heat radiating off the cat, but very little off piping and the muffler (the next source of restriction, thus heat). It's a quick check that you might try?
 
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