Originally Posted By: Phishin
Would it be smart to rub grease, oil, fluid film, or paint, etc. etc. on the hub after cleaning? You know, to prevent corrosion in the future?
A Critic-Style Brake Job
- Thread starter The Critic
- Start date
- Status
If its only very minor surface rust then it does help a little but once the iron gets pitted nothing really helps for very long, one winter in the salt belt and its back.
There is nothing worse than naked iron for rusting.
Critic, I'd like to see your jig for measuring runout. I posted mine before, now I can't find it, maybe it was another forum. Getting them clamped down firmly enough to measure accurately can be a chore. The magnetic base is only a help, I've had to C-Clamp my base down.
Unless there's something magical about Accords, I don't see a problem with .002" of runout. I've found the <=.004" spec to be fine for all kinds of vehicles with no pulsation over long lifetimes. I shoot for less than .001" but with some vehicles it's just not possible, sometimes bearing slop makes accurate measurement impossible to those specs. Yes I can spin the rotor carefully enough to get the reading I want, but I don't deceive myself that there's no play there.
After monitoring runout and brake performance on my various vehicles, I now feel pad imprinting/poor break-in is the primary cause of brake pedal pulsation, with runout being the problem only when excessive. The proliferation of bad break-in advice on the Internet only makes things worse.
Originally Posted By: HangFire
After monitoring runout and brake performance on my various vehicles, I now feel pad imprinting/poor break-in is the primary cause of brake pedal pulsation, with runout being the problem only when excessive. The proliferation of bad break-in advice on the Internet only makes things worse.
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Originally Posted By: HangFire
After monitoring runout and brake performance on my various vehicles, I now feel pad imprinting/poor break-in is the primary cause of brake pedal pulsation, with runout being the problem only when excessive. The proliferation of bad break-in advice on the Internet only makes things worse.
Originally Posted By: Rick in PA
Thanks for posting. It reminds me to be more careful in cleaning my hubs on future brake jobs.
I do not see a dial gauge connected to measure lateral runout?
Originally Posted By: Donald
I do not see a dial gauge connected to measure lateral runout?
Nice to see you cleaned up the hub to rotor interface. I always burnish a small amount of anti seize into the interface so that rust doesn't develope.Nice right up
Originally Posted By: MDettling
I should throw a stick of Old Spice deodorant in the toolbox.. Pure Sport, "the scent of victory"
This is great tool/reference for people who dont know how to do brakes the proper way.
I had to LOL @ your "rust" on those hubs. But i guess that is as bad as it gets in Cali, try coming to the midwest. You will learn about rust here.
But brakes are easy and stupid quick. If you were put on the clock, you can easily do job in say under 30 minutes, minus the bleeding and braking in the pads.
It must be actually fun working on old cars in CA. Up here I'd be torching and hammering those rotors and caliper bolts off.
Half the time the brake lines are frozen in place so you have lots of fun when you want to change calipers.
Last edited:
This is a great thread.
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
Very thorough brake job! 
Most shops/tech's wouldn't go this far as there are 100 cars waiting in the parking lot for their turn to be serviced. They'd just slap on new parts(loaded kit) and move on to the next customers car. And of course, charge the poor customer $800-$1000
Most shops/tech's wouldn't go this far as there are 100 cars waiting in the parking lot for their turn to be serviced. They'd just slap on new parts(loaded kit) and move on to the next customers car. And of course, charge the poor customer $800-$1000 Originally Posted By: Turk
You da man!!
I just bought front Centric Rotors for the '98 Saturn from Amazon, but there was
no mention of lateral runout. I'd like 0.002" or better. Do you know what Centric specs, in general??
Thanks!
I just bought front Centric Rotors for the '98 Saturn from Amazon, but there was
no mention of lateral runout. I'd like 0.002" or better. Do you know what Centric specs, in general??
Thanks!
Originally Posted By: Mud
Just curious (I hope I didn't miss this in the write-up)did you bleed brake fluid out at all to replenish with fresh fluid? The stuff that sits inside the caliper pistons gets particularly nasty since it's on the front lines so to speak.
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
I concur with others that you did a great job and that not too many mechanics would go into the same level of detail in their work, which is quite sad considering the price they charge for the labor.
The only thing I did not catch is if you used any antiseize on the hub. If not, then the rust will inevitably return and mess up the runout again.
Having said that, I believe that a simple hub cleaning would bring the runout on the old rotors and pads back to spec, saving the owner money on the new parts.
Originally Posted By: Phishin
Would it be smart to rub grease, oil, fluid film, or paint, etc. etc. on the hub after cleaning? You know, to prevent corrosion in the future?
Originally Posted By: HangFire
Critic, I'd like to see your jig for measuring runout. I posted mine before, now I can't find it, maybe it was another forum. Getting them clamped down firmly enough to measure accurately can be a chore. The magnetic base is only a help, I've had to C-Clamp my base down.
Unless there's something magical about Accords, I don't see a problem with .002" of runout. I've found the <=.004" spec to be fine for all kinds of vehicles with no pulsation over long lifetimes. I shoot for less than .001" but with some vehicles it's just not possible, sometimes bearing slop makes accurate measurement impossible to those specs. Yes I can spin the rotor carefully enough to get the reading I want, but I don't deceive myself that there's no play there.
After monitoring runout and brake performance on my various vehicles, I now feel pad imprinting/poor break-in is the primary cause of brake pedal pulsation, with runout being the problem only when excessive. The proliferation of bad break-in advice on the Internet only makes things worse.
Originally Posted By: bowlofturtle
This is great tool/reference for people who dont know how to do brakes the proper way.
I had to LOL @ your "rust" on those hubs. But i guess that is as bad as it gets in Cali, try coming to the midwest. You will learn about rust here.
But brakes are easy and stupid quick. If you were put on the clock, you can easily do job in say under 30 minutes, minus the bleeding and braking in the pads.
well done. This is the far end of a brake job. Before I give up on lumpy brakes. I take stuff apart and wire wheel the hub and the rotor surface.. I don't mess with never seize, what is in the grease gun is fine. Cleaning up stuff including the glaze on the pads and clean brake material off the rotor. My cars were prone to this. I dunno about Hondas. YMMV
I've done this on a friend's car, while I probably didn't wirebrush the caliper bracket I did brush the daylights out of the hub, replaced the slide pin bushings since the boots look swollen and seeing green Permatex grease confirmed my suspicions of improper lubrication. I used Toyota brake rubber grease and Molykote M77 as they are close or the same as what Subaru specifies(Niglube RM-2 and Molykote AS880N respectively).
Very thorough. Thanks for taking the time to photograph & share this.
- Status
