Very thorough brake job!
Most shops/tech's wouldn't go this far as there are 100 cars waiting in the parking lot for their turn to be serviced. They'd just slap on new parts(loaded kit) and move on to the next customers car. And of course, charge the poor customer $800-$1000
Thanks! I do think that if a tech used an on-car-lathe, the practice should greatly reduce the comeback rate since cutting rotors on the same plane will greatly reduce the lateral runout.
You da man!!
I just bought front Centric Rotors for the '98 Saturn from Amazon, but there was
no mention of lateral runout. I'd like 0.002" or better. Do you know what Centric specs, in general??
Thanks! Centric claims 0.002” or less on the rotor itself (on their 120 and 125 series) but as I mentioned earlier, what matters is the runout of the final assembly. If your rotor has no runout, but the hub does, the “stacking” may lead you to have a result that is out-of-spec.
Just curious (I hope I didn't miss this in the write-up)did you bleed brake fluid out at all to replenish with fresh fluid? The stuff that sits inside the caliper pistons gets particularly nasty since it's on the front lines so to speak.
The brake fluid was flushed at the last service, which was about 6 months and 4,000 miles ago. But I did notice that the brake fluid has turned green? I've seen this happen before on systems that have not been flushed regularly.
I concur with others that you did a great job and that not too many mechanics would go into the same level of detail in their work, which is quite sad considering the price they charge for the labor.
The only thing I did not catch is if you used any antiseize on the hub. If not, then the rust will inevitably return and mess up the runout again.
Having said that, I believe that a simple hub cleaning would bring the runout on the old rotors and pads back to spec, saving the owner money on the new parts.
Thanks. Rust will return regardless, but this will allow it to go away longer.
A hub cleaning may bring the runout back into spec, but any thickness variation that has already developed will not be resolved. Thickness variation is what ultimately causes the pulsation that a driver feels.
Would it be smart to rub grease, oil, fluid film, or paint, etc. etc. on the hub after cleaning? You know, to prevent corrosion in the future?
I was always told to not use any lubricants/greases on the hub flange since it could attract dirt/debris.
Critic, I'd like to see your jig for measuring runout. I posted mine before, now I can't find it, maybe it was another forum. Getting them clamped down firmly enough to measure accurately can be a chore. The magnetic base is only a help, I've had to C-Clamp my base down.
Unless there's something magical about Accords, I don't see a problem with .002" of runout. I've found the <=.004" spec to be fine for all kinds of vehicles with no pulsation over long lifetimes. I shoot for less than .001" but with some vehicles it's just not possible, sometimes bearing slop makes accurate measurement impossible to those specs. Yes I can spin the rotor carefully enough to get the reading I want, but I don't deceive myself that there's no play there.
After monitoring runout and brake performance on my various vehicles, I now feel pad imprinting/poor break-in is the primary cause of brake pedal pulsation, with runout being the problem only when excessive. The proliferation of bad break-in advice on the Internet only makes things worse.
Sure thing – I use a HF dial indicator. Here are the videos that did not link properly in the original post:
Getting a good mounting spot is always a challenge. Each car is different. On Hondas with double-wishbone suspensions, the damper fork bolt tends to be a good spot. On other cars, one of the strut-to-knuckle bolts can be a good spot as well.
I think your concern is valid – up until recently, cars allowed as much as 0.004”. But we're starting to see cars allow no more than 0.0014” (Infiniti G37). The principle is that the more runout you have, the more likely you are to develop thickness variation. Until I measured runout, I used to clean the heck out of the hubs and rarely had issues as well – but then again, I always used new super-premium rotors and the applications had fairly generous tolerances. At the end of the day, the amount that you will get away with will depend on the individual application, the pad choice and your driving habits. Less is better – if possible.
This is great tool/reference for people who dont know how to do brakes the proper way.
I had to LOL @ your "rust" on those hubs. But i guess that is as bad as it gets in Cali, try coming to the midwest. You will learn about rust here.
But brakes are easy and stupid quick. If you were put on the clock, you can easily do job in say under 30 minutes, minus the bleeding and braking in the pads.
I've seen some pretty horrific pictures. I think flat rate is 2 hours on this job, not sure how you can do all of the steps “properly” in 30 min. I think my record is just under 90 minutes, and that was really pushing it.