A couple Castrol GTX Startup Questions

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1. What group is it, II, III, IV, V? 2. It advertises all kinds of startup protection however mentions nothing about normal driving after startup protection. It this a good oil for the driving after startup?
 
I dont know whats up with that. Advanced auto, pepboys still has a full supply regular priced. Walmart doesn't sell it anymore
 
Saw it at local Walmart for a buck a quart


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Huh, at my wally world they upped it to $2.97 then got rid of it. It does have some V thrown in it and I would think that is a great plus. Seeing as don't most other "blends" have only some group III thrown in w/ them?
 
I was able to get 12 quarts of it rather cheap, right around $1 a quart at meijers. I'm running it in my Regal GS right now and the car seems to like it. I have 3k on it right now and it's still pretty clear (136k miles on engine).
 
I'm using the Magnatec SP (5W-40) synthetic.

It's a GrIII witht heir UMA ester stuff in it...smells like gummi bears.
 
Is ester what clings to the metal thats in startup? If so what other oils have this in case I become no longer able to find startup?
 
Can I get this at a local store? I am done ordering. Just want to go and pick up. I just wasted another $70 on amsoil cause my car didn't like it. Easier with this car to just go to wally or advance and if the car doesn't like it its easier to deal with. Thanks for the recommendation though!
 
Keep in mind you still have a group II oil mixed in but if you were thinking of a synth blend this may be the way to go.
 
I have piston slap really bad, darn GM product. I need something that will cling to the metal such as the GTX Startup. Being GTX Startup is becoming rare, may need an alternative. Anyhoo, back on topic, the GTX seems to be working well, smells like synthetic.
 
quote:

Originally posted by HACCOFFICER:
Yeah, I wanted to get a head start on trying to ease the slap. I haven't noticed any difference yet. Still loud slapping.

Give it some time. It took about 500 miles on my Olds before I started noticing a real difference.
 
One thing to keep in mind: The GM 3.1 and 3.4 engines suffer from two "noise" problems that are both clearance related. One is the piston slap. The other involves the wrist pins. Some of these engines shipped with pistons that have wrist pin holes that are at max diameter and wrist pins that are at min diameter. This translates into a rather distinct "knock" that can sound like piston slap when the engine is cold. Depending on how big the difference in the size of the hole and the diameter of the wrist pin(s), this knock may never completely go away even when the engine is fully warmed up.

I'm not sure if any oil can mask the wrist pin problem. I'm fortunate with my 3.4 in that I only have the piston slap and it's never been all that bad.
 
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