'99 CRV Diff fluid change damage

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ZraHamilton

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1999 Honda CRV with 228k miles. Honda Real Time 4WD. Have no records of diff fluid ever being changed. Was told by a mechanic that it could cause damage by changing it at this point, similar to brown, metallic ATF that would cause all kinds of problems if changed. I have never heard of this in differentials like in ATs. Is this true?

If it's fine to change, are there any alternatives to the recommended Honda Genuine Dual Pump II Differential Fluid? What is different in it from GL-5 fluids?
 
Originally Posted by ZraHamilton
1999 Honda CRV with 228k miles. Honda Real Time 4WD. Have no records of diff fluid ever being changed. Was told by a mechanic that it could cause damage by changing it at this point, similar to brown, metallic ATF that would cause all kinds of problems if changed. I have never heard of this in differentials like in ATs. Is this true?

If it's fine to change, are there any alternatives to the recommended Honda Genuine Dual Pump II Differential Fluid? What is different in it from GL-5 fluids?

That's rubbish from the mechanic.
Consider a GL5 75W85 or 80W90, with limited slip additives if the differential has one.
 
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Find a new mechanic.

Amsoil recommends GLS41. So there must be something special about it. Might be dealer only. Given you only need a QT or two, I would get the proper stuff and not guess. Only $12 a QT on Amazon.
 
Not sure if it has a magnetic rain plug but if it does, you'd want to clean that up in increase its efficiency at pulling metal from the fluid. So, yes, change it.

How would a mechanic make that assessment? He sees customers cars come in, changes the brown fluid, it blows, it, has to come into the same shop, he needs to see the service record, it has to be the same mechanic that did the work etc. I doubt any data is collected whatsoever. I respect a good mechanics work, but I don't trust any advice like that.
 
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As an owner of a 1998 CRV, I say change away. Do it twice, maybe a week apart to drain off the residual old differential fluid. It is the same fluid the automatic transmission takes, and you will need a quart for each change. Might as well change the old ATF as well while you're at it. You don't have to use Honda ATF, and some in this board will probably disagree. I've been using Castrol MultiVehicle and Mobil1 ATF for the past 12 years and the old CRV is none the worse for it.
 
Originally Posted by ZraHamilton
1999 Honda CRV with 228k miles. Honda Real Time 4WD. Have no records of diff fluid ever being changed.

Just because you have no record doesn't mean it hasn't been changed. Look at the drain or fill plugs. Do they show any sign of being touched previously ? The factory installation will be pretty 'tidy' and probably won't show any wear from that tool many, many years ago.
 
I changed the FF ATF at 200k km in my car, made a noticeable difference. Did not explode.
In my previous car I changed what had to be the FF gear oil in the manual transmission at 200k km, made a noticeable difference. Did not explode.
Originally Posted by berniedd
You don't have to use Honda ATF, and some in this board will probably disagree. I've been using Castrol MultiVehicle and Mobil1 ATF for the past 12 years and the old CRV is none the worse for it.
Maxlife, man. It's made for situations like this.
 
"1999 Honda CRV with 228k miles. Honda Real Time 4WD. Have no records of diff fluid ever being changed. Was told by a mechanic that it could cause damage by changing it at this point, similar to brown, metallic ATF that would cause all kinds of problems if changed. I have never heard of this in differentials like in ATs. Is this true?

If it's fine to change, are there any alternatives to the recommended Honda Genuine Dual Pump II Differential Fluid? What is different in it from GL-5 fluids?"


You are inquiring about differential fluid as your reference to the Dual Pump II Fluid used in newer models of CR-V. Believe the original fluid was just named Honda Genuine Dual Pump and surely outdated. I only get into the conversation due to the input from posters of automatic transmission fluid and if so is not the same fluid. Even though Dual Pump II Fluid is quite expensive per quart for what it is, the CR-V I have takes 1.1 quarts per change. I believe there are historical posts here about this same issue you report and for the amount needed, its was not worth the effort in chasing. And I'll even bet I have quarts of the original dual pump fluid in old stock to boot. ( no cross for use in any other applications)

If you have no record of the differential fluid never being changed, it would be a good idea to do so understanding to loosen the upper plug before letting the old remaining fluid out of the lower grain plug.

Enjoy the holiday everyone.
 
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Good advice above. I think it bears repeating how this myth is perpetuated, which is more psychological than technical.

A car owner experiences hiccups or something wrong with the transmission or differential. Someone asks when the fluid was last changed (which is likely never) and that a fluid change may help. The car owner takes his car to the shop, has the fluid changed, and the car takes a dump sometime afterward. Now the car owner tells all his friends that the fluid change caused the car to take a dump, completely ignoring the fact that he neglected the maintenance, and the transmission or differential was on its way out anyhow.

I just don't see how new lubricant that is in spec and free of contaminants could harm a car.
 
Originally Posted by Kestas
Good advice above. I think it bears repeating how this myth is perpetuated, which is more psychological than technical.

A car owner experiences hiccups or something wrong with the transmission or differential. Someone asks when the fluid was last changed (which is likely never) and that a fluid change may help. The car owner takes his car to the shop, has the fluid changed, and the car takes a dump sometime afterward. Now the car owner tells all his friends that the fluid change caused the car to take a dump, completely ignoring the fact that he neglected the maintenance, and the transmission or differential was on its way out anyhow.

I just don't see how new lubricant that is in spec and free of contaminants could harm a car.
It's flush machines that are doing it. Either that or not changing the filter with the fluid so it gets plugged. It's easier to say "It must have been the fresh fluid that smoked your trans" than "It could have been the transmission flush that I upsold you" or "I guess I really should have changed the filter that I charged you to change along with the fluid".

There was a thread on here where you could see some of the filter element had been pulled out of the filter from the power of the flush machine. The shop also didn't change the filter after the flush, making the problem even worse.

Cooler line flushes are done on old, neglected cars all of the time and there are no problems. IIRC you should change the filter in that situation because that new fluid + additives will be cleaning and depositing things in the filter.
 
Originally Posted by maxdustington
It's flush machines that are doing it. Either that or not changing the filter with the fluid so it gets plugged. It's easier to say "It must have been the fresh fluid that smoked your trans" than "It could have been the transmission flush that I upsold you" or "I guess I really should have changed the filter that I charged you to change along with the fluid".

There was a thread on here where you could see some of the filter element had been pulled out of the filter from the power of the flush machine. The shop also didn't change the filter after the flush, making the problem even worse.

Cooler line flushes are done on old, neglected cars all of the time and there are no problems. IIRC you should change the filter in that situation because that new fluid + additives will be cleaning and depositing things in the filter.

Flush machines do not cause damage. Adding solvents prior to the fluid service can sometimes be problematic but are unlikely to cause an issue. I have done plenty of fluid exchanges without replacing the filter; in fact I only replace the filter if it is required by the OEM service schedule. The fluid exchange machines rely on pressure from the transmission's internal pump for fluid low. Some of the machines will have a small pump to "help" flow on low-flow transmissions (e.g. Toyota) but it is far from the "pressure wash" picture that some folks are trying to paint...
 
I like the AMSOIL Online Product Application Guide, however I much prefer the still available previous version. It lists the original spec, applicable Amsoil product recommendations, appropriate capacities and torque specs, all on one page. Very handy and useful.

https://www.amsoil.com/AmsoilGarage/internal/vehiclelookuppage.aspx?url2=1999+HONDA+CR-V+5

As mentioned, looks like even Amsoil has no equivalent recommendation. Seems 1qt. will get the job done, might as well bite the bullet and use the Honda DPF II. Also good suggestion provided earlier about making sure to open the fill hole before attempting the drain plug.
 
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