I have a 99 Civic that won't start, it cranks over fine but when you turn the key to the run position the fuel pump doesn't run. I found that when you turn the key to run that the check engine light doesn't turn off after a few seconds which should mean there is a code stored but my scan tool says that it cannot establish a connection with the vehicle. I had replaced the main relay a few yrs ago as that's a common issue on these Civic's from that era but also found there can be an issue with the ignition switch. It looks fairly simple to change out, it's the electrical part which is a separate piece that doesn't include the actual switch with the tumblers and I won't have to worry about having 2 keys or having it rekeyed to the car.
The switch when it fails the car can shutoff when you hit a bump in the road or if you have a lot of keys on your keyring which I believe GM also had that issue if anyone remembers. I do have a new switch on order and hopefully should be here tomorrow but was wondering if that could be preventing power to the ecu, I've checked the fuses under the dash and under the hood but all were good. I actually do have another ecu that was in the car when I bought it that is if I can find it, I've looked this evening and struck out, it's way too hot and I'm too tired to keep looking right now. The car is actually CA emissions and I replaced it with the most recent Federal one, I live in VA and they only test if you live in Nova which I do not reside there. I'm hoping the switch solves it but if not then I'll have to find it.
I haven't done this yet but there is a brown pigtail connector at the ecu that you can short with a paperclip and count the flashes on the light to read the code. I literally had taken this thing to the dealer a few weeks ago and had them replace the airbag inflater under the recall and really haven't driven it much since.
The switch when it fails the car can shutoff when you hit a bump in the road or if you have a lot of keys on your keyring which I believe GM also had that issue if anyone remembers. I do have a new switch on order and hopefully should be here tomorrow but was wondering if that could be preventing power to the ecu, I've checked the fuses under the dash and under the hood but all were good. I actually do have another ecu that was in the car when I bought it that is if I can find it, I've looked this evening and struck out, it's way too hot and I'm too tired to keep looking right now. The car is actually CA emissions and I replaced it with the most recent Federal one, I live in VA and they only test if you live in Nova which I do not reside there. I'm hoping the switch solves it but if not then I'll have to find it.
I haven't done this yet but there is a brown pigtail connector at the ecu that you can short with a paperclip and count the flashes on the light to read the code. I literally had taken this thing to the dealer a few weeks ago and had them replace the airbag inflater under the recall and really haven't driven it much since.