'98 Ranger AC Schrader Valve hi side

[D60]

I last had a question about valves on a ZJ and now a similar problem on this '98 Ranger 4.0.

The green valve on right is what I removed from the high side. I've been unsuccessful finding an exact match. The left is the closest I can find and this also seems to be -- visually -- what all the parts listings show. However the black on left leaks, and the cap won't screw on with the black unit in place.

The diameter of the bottom for what I removed is ~.303". The black is ~.248"

Digging around online I can't find anything that looks like the green unit I removed. Threads appear to be 10mm.

Any suggestions?
@Chris142

 

[Chris142]

I last had a question about valves on a ZJ and now a similar problem on this '98 Ranger 4.0.

The green valve on right is what I removed from the high side. I've been unsuccessful finding an exact match. The left is the closest I can find and this also seems to be -- visually -- what all the parts listings show. However the black on left leaks, and the cap won't screw on with the black unit in place.View attachment 294144

The diameter of the bottom for what I removed is ~.303". The black is ~.248"View attachment 294145

Digging around online I can't find anything that looks like the green unit I removed. Threads appear to be 10mm.

Any suggestions?
@Chris142

That's the upgraded replacement. It's fine to use.

 

[D60]

That's the upgraded replacement. It's fine to use.

Hmm I wonder why it leaked. Maybe just a cheap valve? It came from an Amazon assortment

 

[Trav]

Even this one from Motorcraft looks like the black one only with green rings. Did the original leak also?

https://www.carid.com/motorcraft/a-...NxfacVQyJhf2_nS1CP8YVfU__71t4yWYDp0XZ7V1sXgIH

 

[bdcardinal]

 

[D60]

Even this one from Motorcraft looks like the black one only with green rings. Did the original leak also?

https://www.carid.com/motorcraft/a-...NxfacVQyJhf2_nS1CP8YVfU__71t4yWYDp0XZ7V1sXgIH

Not sure exactly the system only had ~10# in it and I figured prudent to change.

The old valve came out hard and I now think I didn't have the new one fully seated. Something (corrosion maybe) in the threads it seems. So, this may be operator error -- my middle name! Will know more soon.

Once I found the leak I ASSumed the valve was incorrect since it appeared different.

I just learned -- for myself -- that checking fitment of the plastic cap may serve as an indicator of whether the valve is fully seated. Previously I could not thread the cap but I put in a second replacement valve and the cap now tightens down.

I think after a few cycles of removing and installing the threads have cleaned up.

 

[D60]

So yeah, just me being dumb. Repeated installations effectively chased the threads and the new-style core finally seated.

However does anyone know of a tool that will swap these M10 cores while a charge is still in place? My Mastercool 58531 doesn't have a head with a wide enough "groove" to engage the M10, but the ID is large enough to allow it to pass through.

 

[JDenyer232]

Search on Amazon. They have a ton of high and low side Schrader core removal tools with ball valves for changing these out when the system is charged. Most sets are about $25.