Originally Posted By: Trav
I own one and work on a lot of 5.4 2V and 3V engines so i can give you my personal experience for what its worth.
First on anti seize,i use it religiously on these engines and never lost a plug yet.You do need to use a torque wrench and reduce the torque to compensate for the anti seize.
Ford has been blowing in the wind about anti seize for years.
First it not recommended the when they had issues on the 3V the go heck for leather getting out a TSB recommending it.
The two issues with anti seize on spark plugs are using to much and torquing to spec.
To much could could get on the electrodes and short the plug and OEM spec must be reduced or you could either weaken the threads or strip them.
OEM is 11Nm torque with anti seize use 9Nm.
Just a tiny bit on the threads and 9Nm and you will be fine and next time the plugs will come right out.
Motorcraft plugs are probably the best but i don't recommend them unless you have owned it since new,or use the long thread SP479 and not the OEM short threaded ones some dealers still sell,here's why..
If at some point in the engines history a plug thread had to be repaired it may need a full threaded plug.
Original plugs and the Ford approved inserts use a short threaded plug,these cannot be used in most aftermarket repair inserts,the full threaded plugs can be used in all types.
I have had good experience with Autolite XP Extreme and double platinum's.The very generic heat range of the NGK Iridium IX 55 IIRC seems to run hot in these 2V engines.
On these engines over 100K i always replace the coils.
Believe me it will save you a world of aggravation in the future.There is nothing more frustrating than chasing after PO3XX codes on these engines just to find out its another bad COP.
The Standard Motor Products FD503 work very well and can be found online with a google search for $25-30 each,well worth it.
Getting them out..
On the drivers side move the PS reservoir out of the way 3 small bolts.
Move the fuel rail,just remove the bolts and lift it off the injectors.This will give you a clear shot at the coils and plug holes.
The passengers side can get tricky,if the vehicle has rear heating even more so.
Its possible to get to the rear plug with the hoses attached its easier to remove them (needs special tool,online from Astro or similar)if not you will need to hold them out of the way and its difficult to get the torque wrench in there.
You can use the torque wrench with a straight extension but not with swivels etc.
With all the coils removed blow the holes out with compressed air and on engines with over 100K spray some Kroil,PB Blaster etc down the hole and let it work for a few hours.
Apply firm but constant pressure to the ratchet to release the plug threads,don't strong arm it,if it doesn't want to move more Kroil and wait a little.
They usually come out okay with a little care.
Examine the plug threads and look for any aluminum,if they are clear then the threads in the head are usually fine.
Replace the plugs and torque them,this is a big PITA to get a clear shot with the wrench,i snug them slightly with a small head ratchet so it doesn't take much movement of the torque wrench.Put a little silicon grease on the coil boots.
Reassemble everything else.
Tools needed..
1/4 drive set metric for the small COP bolts etc
3/8 drive Plug socket with extensions.HF sells a cheap long socket that works great on these engines.
Regualar 3/8 drive set.
A good small 3/8 drive torque wrench preferably one that does inch pounds and Nm.This is important as these inch pound units are accurate in the lower ranges,9 or 11 Nm is very low and larger units may not click.Sears has one that works okay for these.
Forget beam type as you will have a difficult time seeing the scale.Even a 1/4 inch drive with an adapter to 3/8 will work fine and may in fact be better because its smaller.
Extensions,extensions,extensions of different lengths including very short,1/4 and 3/8
Universal joints.
Sorry for the long winded post.
The cost with coils and a torque wrench is probably the same as the dealer wants for changing the plugs but you will have new coils and a wrench you can use over and over if you don't already have one.
This is a PITA but not that difficult,go slow and pay attention and you will have a job well done.
+1 to everything Trav said.
And beyond that, be prepared that you may blow one anyways.
I popped #4 last year. Dealer had the Lock-N-Stitch insert put in for a few hundred bucks.
I used Motorcraft plugs, and they were of the full-threaded variety. Our dealer doesn't carry the short-thread ones. I'm surprised any of them do.
It took me about 4 hours to do mine last year IIRC. I cracked them all, and let them soak with penetrating lube for a while, before coming back at them and they all came out no problem.
Note: Three of the plugs were LOOSE when I went to change them. They were the original plugs. One of those plugs was the one that eventually ended up launching (#4) which blew out, threaded back in, and then blew out, taking the rest of the threads with it about a month later.
BTW, for mine, there was what sounded like an exhaust leak, that I thought was a manifold leak. It wasn't. That was the sound of a loose plug. Keep that in mind, as this can be an indicator that you've got a plug that has worked itself loose and will want to blow out. You can find out which cylinder it is with a mechanics stethoscope.
We've owned three Expeditions: 1998, 2000 and 2002. We still own the last two. The only one that has launched a plug is mine. And I drive the living you know what out of it, which may be a contributing factor.
