97 Camry transmission whine
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I'd pay the mechanic for the M1 diff change. Just think of the DexVI as the rinse/flush.
I usually don't have noise issues from cheap belts. They simply don't last as long as the better quality ones. Don't cut corners on parts that are rarely replaced---sensors, belts, hoses, thermostats.... should all be OE or best quality aftermarket. Those cheap parts will fail when you least expect it---in city traffic or on the x-country road trip.
I usually don't have noise issues from cheap belts. They simply don't last as long as the better quality ones. Don't cut corners on parts that are rarely replaced---sensors, belts, hoses, thermostats.... should all be OE or best quality aftermarket. Those cheap parts will fail when you least expect it---in city traffic or on the x-country road trip.
Originally Posted By: unDummy
I'd pay the mechanic for the M1 diff change. Just think of the DexVI as the rinse/flush.
I usually don't have noise issues from cheap belts. They simply don't last as long as the better quality ones. Don't cut corners on parts that are rarely replaced---sensors, belts, hoses, thermostats.... should all be OE or best quality aftermarket. Those cheap parts will fail when you least expect it---in city traffic or on the x-country road trip.
I agree with you about the parts. I got lazy this time and told my mechanic to get the belts. I always buy parts from the dealer.
I'd pay the mechanic for the M1 diff change. Just think of the DexVI as the rinse/flush.
I usually don't have noise issues from cheap belts. They simply don't last as long as the better quality ones. Don't cut corners on parts that are rarely replaced---sensors, belts, hoses, thermostats.... should all be OE or best quality aftermarket. Those cheap parts will fail when you least expect it---in city traffic or on the x-country road trip.
I agree with you about the parts. I got lazy this time and told my mechanic to get the belts. I always buy parts from the dealer.
I think you are fine if they use Gates or Dayco belts. I especially like the Dayco Top Cog belt.
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Just an update:
After 10,000 miles the power steering belt was cracked all over and it started slipping. I would lose power steering sometimes while driving.
I went ahead and bought the 2 belts for AC/Alternator and P/S from the dealer and installed them. My car sounds way better now.
The brand is Bando and was reasonably priced. Total was $32 w/tax.
Lesson learned: Don't cheap out on parts.
After 10,000 miles the power steering belt was cracked all over and it started slipping. I would lose power steering sometimes while driving.
I went ahead and bought the 2 belts for AC/Alternator and P/S from the dealer and installed them. My car sounds way better now.
The brand is Bando and was reasonably priced. Total was $32 w/tax.
Lesson learned: Don't cheap out on parts.
Originally Posted By: Donald
I think you are fine if they use Gates or Dayco belts. I especially like the Dayco Top Cog belt.
That, and some OE belts are extremely durable.
I frequently see MOPAR belts, belts from German cars, and Mitsuboshi belts that are 8 years old and still going strong.
Of course, getting a Gates or Dayco belt is much simpler and less expensive. Goodyear belts are probably fine too.
I think you are fine if they use Gates or Dayco belts. I especially like the Dayco Top Cog belt.
That, and some OE belts are extremely durable.
I frequently see MOPAR belts, belts from German cars, and Mitsuboshi belts that are 8 years old and still going strong.
Of course, getting a Gates or Dayco belt is much simpler and less expensive. Goodyear belts are probably fine too.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Dexron-VI is unlikely to be the problem. Dexron III is less shear stable than Dexron VI and could have a lower viscosity than Dexron-VI within several thousand miles.
A whine usually means that the fluid level is correct. Many automatic transmission dipsticks are difficult to read. My dad said the transmission was full, but it was actually 1.5 qt low.
don't you mean a whine means that the fluid level is incorrect?
Dexron-VI is unlikely to be the problem. Dexron III is less shear stable than Dexron VI and could have a lower viscosity than Dexron-VI within several thousand miles.
A whine usually means that the fluid level is correct. Many automatic transmission dipsticks are difficult to read. My dad said the transmission was full, but it was actually 1.5 qt low.
don't you mean a whine means that the fluid level is incorrect?
Originally Posted By: crinkles
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Dexron-VI is unlikely to be the problem. Dexron III is less shear stable than Dexron VI and could have a lower viscosity than Dexron-VI within several thousand miles.
A whine usually means that the fluid level is correct. Many automatic transmission dipsticks are difficult to read. My dad said the transmission was full, but it was actually 1.5 qt low.
don't you mean a whine means that the fluid level is incorrect?
Yes that's what I meant.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Dexron-VI is unlikely to be the problem. Dexron III is less shear stable than Dexron VI and could have a lower viscosity than Dexron-VI within several thousand miles.
A whine usually means that the fluid level is correct. Many automatic transmission dipsticks are difficult to read. My dad said the transmission was full, but it was actually 1.5 qt low.
don't you mean a whine means that the fluid level is incorrect?
Yes that's what I meant.
Originally Posted By: unDummy
When compared to DexronIII, ATD is thicker!
I would definitely top off that diff immediately at another shop. If it was very low, then you risk some lube starvation issues and that will explain the whine, along with future diff failure.
Or, the whine was noticeable before and someone filled the diff with some gear oil to hide it in order to dump the vehicle.
I highly doubt that DexronVI is a culprit here.
I would use ATF+4. Its thicker the DexronVI, should help mask the whine, and doesn't shear as quickly as regular DexronIII's.
How about Mobil's syn ATF or Valvoline's Mercon 5. They both claim to be Dex 3 compatible.
When compared to DexronIII, ATD is thicker!
I would definitely top off that diff immediately at another shop. If it was very low, then you risk some lube starvation issues and that will explain the whine, along with future diff failure.
Or, the whine was noticeable before and someone filled the diff with some gear oil to hide it in order to dump the vehicle.
I highly doubt that DexronVI is a culprit here.
I would use ATF+4. Its thicker the DexronVI, should help mask the whine, and doesn't shear as quickly as regular DexronIII's.
How about Mobil's syn ATF or Valvoline's Mercon 5. They both claim to be Dex 3 compatible.
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