96 BMW 318i: Control Arm Bushing Replacement

[HondaMan]

In the past I had posted about my new to me BMW. It was mentioned in that thread to really pay attention to the control arm bushings. Since I have some free time this week, I have parts on the way to do just that.

Questions:

I have read/noted that the removal of the bushing & bracket requires a pulley. No problem if that is the case.

My question in regards to the replacement is that I have read/noted that there is 'NO WAY IN #@$%!' that you can simply slide/hammer/wish the new bushing/bracket into place.

Is this true, and if so what do you use to set the bushing & bracket back in place?

I have also read that BMW has a special oil/lube/glue that is to be used in this regard, BMW 81 22 9 407 284.
Anyone have experience with this lube?

I read that it will actually set rather quickly and thus glue the bushing to the control arm.

In the old invoices, I note that when the dealer quoted the previous owner about this work, they quote the price replacing all the control arm locking nuts, but as I understand, I should NOT have to remove the whole control arm, should I?

Or do you in fact have to remove it, so that you can then press the bushing/bracket back into the control arm?

Thanks in advance to everyone!

 

[mdv]

Quote:

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I have also read that BMW has a special oil/lube/glue that is to be used in this regard, BMW 81 22 9 407 284.
Anyone have experience with this lube?

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This lube dries in 30 minutes so you have to be really quick to get everything done and the car lowered into position. Basically, not gonna happen.

Full strength laundry detergent has worked for me in the past. Also soak the bushing in hot water before hand.

This is all much easier with the control arm off the car, and realistically the control arms should be replaced at the same time. They were a weak design on the E36 and can cause loss of control if the ball joint snaps.

 

[HondaMan]

mdv,

Thanks. I am leaning that way. The control arm with new ball joint is only 99$ per side.

It seems weird/not needed to replace the whole control arm, but I am seeing now that the ball joint is not easily replaced.
I guess I might have to wait a few more days. Heck I might as well order new struts as well

 

[nel]

Here's how I did that job on my wife's 97 328i. Remove the control arm with the control arm support bracket/bushings still attached. Took the whole thing to a machine shop so they could a) remove the bracket/bushing assemblies from the control arms; b) remove the bushings from the brackets; c) install the new bushings into the brackets. Now I had new bushings ready to install onto new control arms I had bought.

The trick to reinstalling the bushings is to find a socket that is big enough to fit over the end of the control arm but is just small enough that it hits the inner metal part of the bushing. Spray the end of the control arm and bushing with a silicone lubricant. The BMW lubricant is turpentine; silicone works fine and is what my trusty BMW mechanic uses. You then position the bushing with the socket and hammer it into place; tighten the bolts for the bracket to the proper torque spec. Do both sides; lower the car and let it sit overnight.

 

[HondaMan]

nel,

Thanks for your input.

I purchased the bushings with new brackets, so I will not have to perform the first few steps you mention.

I am almost convinced that the control arm must come off, but I have read that it is not a requirement.

As I had mentioned it is obvious that the dealer would go the remove the control arm route as they quoted the two specific lock nuts in the parts replacment list.

Question:

Once the bushing/bracket on back on, I fully assume that they will be able to spin around the control arm, correct?
(may need some force, I just mean to say that you will be able to move them enough to adjust)

 

[mdv]

I've replaced the CAB with the control arm on the car. It's awkward but can be done. The bushing are very tight, so they should be aligned close to where you need them.

Usually, when the bushings are ready, the ball joints are close to shot too, so most people replace them in pairs considering the consequences of a ball joint failure and the simple fact the labor is really about the same, especially if you do it yourself. The nuts are like $2 each from most places I've seen, so cost shouldn't be a factor there.

If you're going to keep this car for a long time buy the Lemfoerder arms and skip the Meyle ones. Do not buy OCAP arms unless you plan on doing the job again fairly quickly.

 

[HondaMan]

Thanks mdv and nel.

I will infact order up two control arms. Lemfoerder
is in fact the line they carry.

Maybe I'll just order a few struts too.

 

[nel]

Yes, the bushings will rotate with some effort so that you can position them. Be sure not to mix up left vs. right side. It was actually a lot simpler than I expected with that trick my mechanic taught me. The hardest part was to remove the control arm. You'll need a stubby wrench to get to the upper nut for the inner ball joint. I couldn't figure out how to torque to spec on that nut so just tightened it as much as feasible (knowing that it shouldn't be so tight that I couldn't get it off in the future).

 

[FowVay]

Here's a pretty neat and useful web site for you BMW guys. You can look up part numbers and see how things are basically assembled.

Check out realoem dot com.

As for the replacement of the attach nuts.. the service manual does say to replace them whenever they've been loosened/removed. Even on the alignment components they want them replaced.

 

[HondaMan]

FowVay,

I am on realoem dot com all the time. A really helpful site.

nel, mdv

Control arms are on the way.

I have discussed the method of how to press the bushings/bracket back ON while ON the car with a local BMW shop and then saw the same thing online.
You simply press back on with a puller using one of the holes in the control arm/a bracket and long bolts. Or some actually have pullers with VERY long arms.

I agree with everyone in that is is time for those ball joints to be replaced anyway so I am glad I asked and have ordered them.

 

[Carmudgeon]

Roll your own:

http://understeer.com/lcab.shtml

This is a shadetree tool that mimics the factory bushing tool.

Dish soap is fine as a lube.

The key is to get the car back onto the ground at normal ride height before the lube dries and the bushings/arms set in place.