95 Camry engine cuts out when cold please read...

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Dohc98vteC

Dohc98vteC

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We had problems with th car just dying when it was hot out, replaced the spark plugs, wires, rotor, distributor cap. Took it to Toyota, said the distributor was not getting enough spark. So they replaced that and this week, pull out of the driveway and apply the gas, the check engine light flashes as the engine power is cut, like the car wants to stall. I got back home, let the engine run a minute or two, then tried to drive it again and it ran fine, I wonder what the problem is now.
I called Toyota service to let them know, they said they will charge me for a diagnostic if it is not related to the original problem, but I would rather try and fix it myself , any ideas?
 
Can you get read the code? Some manuf's rolled out ODBII before '96; not sure if Toyota did. Otherwise there's usually some connector you can hook up or other method to flash out the code.

My off hand guess would be cylinder misfire. That often will cause flashing CEL/MIL, though there are other codes than can do it as well.
 
Quote:

I would rather try and fix it myself

Click to expand...

The easiest thing, assuming it was misfire, is check to make sure the plug wires are securely connected to the distributor and to the plugs, the distributor cap is on securely, and the rotor still looks good, etc.
 
I already tried to get it pulled at AutoZone, but of course it's OBDI, so can't pull the code.

Also, I will try and reinspect the plugs and etc, they are all a month old.
 
You can pull the code by counting the blinks of the check engine light. Under the hood located the diagnostic jumper, it should be on the left (passenger side) near the firewall. It is a small black box that says "Diagnostic" and lift that cover open. Plug in TE1 and E1 (under the cover tells you where they are), a paper clip works just fine. Turn the key to the on position (don't start engine) count the number of blinks of the CEL light. For example it might be 7 blinks, pause and then 1, that would be 71. Go to Autozone's web site and they have a repair guide for Toyota Camry 92-96, very helpful. That should tell you what the number of blinks corresponds to what code.

By the way you check the timing by also by plugging E1 and TE1 while engine is running using timing light. Says so on the label under the hood, 10 degrees BTDC.

A common problem on the 92-96 Camry is the IAC (idle air control). It is basically the thing right under the throttle body that blows air during cold starts so the rpm is a little higher. If that thing is broken, car runs very rough on cold starts. It could also be your ignition coil. Good luck, keep us updated.
 
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Quote:

Plug in TE1 and E1 (under the cover tells you where they are), a paper clip works just fine.

Click to expand...


What do you mean by "plug in"; do you mean jump the terminals TE1 and E1 to each other by using a paper clip?
confused.gif
 
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Yes, I have a good idea for you to check...check the ignition coil. It is under the distributor cap. I have a '93 Camry and two years ago the coil went on the car. One day the car simply would not start. I fortunatly quickly diagnosed it and car was back running the same day. It was the ONLY time in 199,000 moles that it wouldn't run.

In my case the rubber/plastic insulation over the coil windings cracked. It was easy to see just by looking at it. Put a new coil (from the Toyota dealer) in in about 30 minutes and perfect.

I would definelty check this. and you don't need any codes or anything. If it's not the coil, then check the codes, etc. It was hot when my coil went, and it's hot out now...coincidence?

good luck.

Quote:

We had problems with th car just dying when it was hot out, replaced the spark plugs, wires, rotor, distributor cap. Took it to Toyota, said the distributor was not getting enough spark. So they replaced that and this week, pull out of the driveway and apply the gas, the check engine light flashes as the engine power is cut, like the car wants to stall. I got back home, let the engine run a minute or two, then tried to drive it again and it ran fine, I wonder what the problem is now.
I called Toyota service to let them know, they said they will charge me for a diagnostic if it is not related to the original problem, but I would rather try and fix it myself , any ideas?

Click to expand...
 
Those coils can be a big nuisance and a pain that leaves you stranded. I replaced my coil/distributor with one with higher/lower temperature tolerances. I like the peace of mind
smile.gif
 
In addition to the coil check the igniter assembly if it has one. The igniter unfortunetly can test good cold but fail once heated. The coil is the same way. When it comes to aftermarket electronics for Toyota's I like NAPA product line much better then any other parts store. In a good many case's the NAPA part will be a Denso/Toyota part at about 1/2 the price of the Toyota dealership and those part's that are not Denso are much better made then the garbage Well's makes for AutoZOne and many other part's store's.

I also wanted to ask if you have ever replaced the fuel filter and when you last changed it?
 
I also would take some voltage reading from the TPS sensor. If you get a flat spot in one section it might still test good but not work under real life conditions!
 
Ok, I took the car back to the dealer after resetting the negative battery cable on Friday, they call me telling me they could not duplicate the check engine light problem, they drive it at different times today and still nothing, it ran fine. The advisor told me they cleared 372 codes from the computer, that is no typo. For all my trouble I asked for a free oil change, which I got. Tonight I come to pick up the car, the service advisor pulls it out front and it dies again, wouldn't give me a rental car either, I am at a loss please advise.
 
Tell us more about what the dealer did to the car or told you about it.

Did you check any of the things that were mentioned above like the coil, the ignitor, the TPS, etc? Are you sure it is electrical and not fuel related? How are you sure?

Quote:

Ok, I took the car back to the dealer after resetting the negative battery cable on Friday, they call me telling me they could not duplicate the check engine light problem, they drive it at different times today and still nothing, it ran fine. The advisor told me they cleared 372 codes from the computer, that is no typo. For all my trouble I asked for a free oil change, which I got. Tonight I come to pick up the car, the service advisor pulls it out front and it dies again, wouldn't give me a rental car either, I am at a loss please advise.

Click to expand...
 
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