'94 3.1L Intake Manifold Gasket p/n

[benjamming]

I am looking at replacing the intake manifold gasket again due to a coolant leak. What are the correct Fel-Pro part numbers needed for this job? I'm looking at p/n MS98004T:
COMPLETE SET - VALVE COVER GSKT
& UPPER SET
INCL -
PERMA DRY PLUS

Another line item at the Federal Mogul sites uses the same p/n, MS98004T, but gives a different description:
COMPLETE SET
VALVE COVER GSKT & UPPER SET INCL
PERMA DRY PLUS INT MFLD GSKT INCL
M ENG CODE

Is there a difference between the two & the part number just doesn't reflect it? Or, is there another p/n that I'm missing to fix this repair for good?

What else will I need?

 

[onion]

I don't know about the Federal Mogul set. But as I recall, the felpro set comes with valve cover gaskets, upper intake gaskets, lower intake gaskets, an upper EGR gasket, an o-ring for the front heater hose pipe, and a little tube of silicon. The lower manifold gaskets in this set are the metal/rubber type, and a vast improvement over the original design.

You'll also need a lower EGR gasket, and a connector assembly for the rear heater hose pipe (they ALWAYS break). You'll probably want to get injector o-rings (total of 12... sold only in sets of 8). Some people leave the fuel rail on (I've been told), but as I recall, it makes some bolts [censored] near impossible to get to- and more importantly- to torque properly. You also MIGHT want a throttle body gasket- it isn't neccesary to take it off the upper intake, but lots of folks like to take it off and clean it while it's handy. And last but not least- you'll want to replace the oil pump drive o-ring while you're in there. It's a common leak, and pretty easy to do while the intake is off. GM sells a new and improved o-ring that is designed to seal better and last longer- it's brown.

You'll also need an inch-pound torque wrench. The gasket comes with revised torque specs. And get some locktite for the bolts. GM has new "updated" bolts for $4 a pop... which are exactly the same as the old bolts, with the addition of locktite.

 

[onion]

It'd also be a good time to replace that little bypass hose above the water pump.

Now, don't take this personally... this is for your own good. I tell this to everybody undertaking this job. Think of me as a 60-degree V6 prophet.

Whatever you do- KEEP THEM PUSHRODS IN ORDER. NEVER NEVER NEVER EVER CRANK THE ENGINE OR EVEN TIGHTEN THE ROCKER ARMS DOWN UNLESS YOU'RE ABSOLUTELY SURE THAT THE PUSHRODS ARE ALL IN THE RIGHT PLACE.

There's a reason I'm passionate about this. I've known of many a 60-degree V6 damaged or ruined by this little quirk. The intake pushrods are shorter (as I recall) than the exhaust pushrods... and if you inadvertantly swap two, valves will hit pistons and within a couple of seconds, your $200, 6-hour job will turn into a $800, 2-day job.

I use a small box, cut 12 slots in it, number them, and mark I and E. Then once the rockers are back on, I suggest that you turn the engine slowly and carefully with a 1/2" ratchet- if a pushrod is out of place, it'll clunk to a stop... and you can investigate further.

Good luck and GawdSpeed.

 

[mstrjon32]

As onion said, keep the pushrods in order. Other things you should buy include the cheap little fuel line disconnect tool if you don't already have one, a new set of o-rings for the fuel injectors, a new distributor o-ring seal (replace it while you've got the engine apart, it only takes another 15 minutes), a new fitting for the LIM heater by-pass line (the quick-connect fitting is basically guaranteed to break so you'll have to replace it) and it's also a nice time to change the rear spark plugs if they need it. Also, the intake gasket set does not come with a new throttle body gasket. You can reuse the old one if you need to, but you might want to replace it.