91 Maxima AT Preventitive Maintenance

[FusilliJerry82]

My friend just bought a 91 Maxima and after reading around the net about it it seems the automatic transmissions are prone to failure around 100k (his has 109K). I looked to see what a filter would cost on a site and they had a little note under the part number; "transmission must be removed and disassembled for filter replacement". No drain plug, plus the filter is apparently just a screen. Gee, I wonder why these tend to fail.

As such, I doubt the fluid's ever been changed. I've driven it; there's no slippage but shifts are rather harsh with quick acceleration.

My plan is to advise him to get one of these kits, go to get a fluid flush and have them install it after they flush and then replace the filter a couple times in quick succession. Then get a flush/filter every 30k or so.

I'm wondering what you guys thought of this plan and whether he should do something different. I really don't want deferred maintenance to bite him in the [censored] if I can help it.

 

[Gary Allan]

They kinda have a choke point on the mount. The filter is just a 3/4-16 thread filter ..$2-3 anywhere ..the trans cooler line is maybe a $1.50/ft or less NAPA or elsewhere. NAPA even carries the mount, but I imagine them being a little salty on it.

You may want to try fleetfilter for the part numbers

24764 (side ports)

24762 (top ports)

Otherwise, it's some hose, hose barbs and clamps ..and a cheap filter.




Another alternative is a hydraulic mount from Northern Tool. The mount is properly priced (or more properly priced) at about $13 and includes a filter. The down side is that your friend will be using 1-12 thread hydraulic filters from there on out. They're not typical $2-3 ..but for the once a year or every other year swap, that's not too much of an issue.


..and..there's always a bypass filter for about $50 installed that you put across the cooler circuit. It's a BP80A mount with a EaBP90 filter.

 

[1993_VG30E_GXE]

The RE4F02A filter is some levels down within the valve body. It requires OVERHAUL TEARDOWN, which means it will cost alot to get the filter changed...in fact so much that you would be overhauling the tranny for that amount of work to get to it.

 

[1993_VG30E_GXE]

Originally Posted By: FusilliJerry82
My friend just bought a 91 Maxima and after reading around the net about it it seems the automatic transmissions are prone to failure around 100k (his has 109K). I looked to see what a filter would cost on a site and they had a little note under the part number; "transmission must be removed and disassembled for filter replacement". No drain plug, plus the filter is apparently just a screen. Gee, I wonder why these tend to fail.

As such, I doubt the fluid's ever been changed. I've driven it; there's no slippage but shifts are rather harsh with quick acceleration.

My plan is to advise him to get one of these kits, go to get a fluid flush and have them install it after they flush and then replace the filter a couple times in quick succession. Then get a flush/filter every 30k or so.

I'm wondering what you guys thought of this plan and whether he should do something different. I really don't want deferred maintenance to bite him in the [censored] if I can help it.


The drain plug is visible directly from the front - it takes a 1/2" drive extension to remove the plug. Do the AT Oil cooler drain method to do a full exchange.

COPY & PASTED FROM MY NOTES
======================================

ATF REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE

***PERFORM PROCEDURE WITH 2 PEOPLE***

1. DRIVE CAR ON HIGHWAY TO GET AT OIL PIPING HOT (DRAINS BETTER)
1. JACK CAR UP ON JACKSTANDS
2. DRAIN DIRTY TRANNY OIL THROUGH DRAIN PLUG INTO BASIN (CLEAN PLUG) - FILL WITH EQUAL NEW OIL AMOUNT INTO DIPSTICK TUBE
3. DETACH RETURN AT OIL COOLER HOSE CLAMP AT RADIATOR (DRIVERS SIDE HOSE FROM RADIATOR BOTTOM) (PLUG END OF HOSE)
4. CONNECT NEW LONG AT OIL COOLER HOSE TO RADIATOR BARB
4. TARGET OPEN END OF NEW HOSE INTO MEASURING CUP TO TRACK OLD OIL FLOWING OUT
5. PREPARE 1L MEASURED AMOUNTS OF NEW ATF ASIDE IN CONTAINERS
6. START CAR IDLE (10-12sec), PLAY THROUGH GEARS & DRAIN OUT 1L FROM AT OIL COOLER HOSE, TURN OFF CAR, FILL 1L NEW OIL INTO DIPSTICK TUBE. EMPTY DIRTY OIL MEASURING CUP. REPEAT PROCEDURE UNTIL CARS CAPACITY IS MET OR EXCEEDED (FACTORING IN NEW OIL AT STEP #2)

(DO ONLY 1L AT A TIME TO AVOID PUMP SUCKING IN AIR CREATING AIR BUBBLES IF 2L AT OIL RESERVOIR HAD A CHANCE TO
EMPTY, IF DOING MORE THAN 1L INTERVAL.

 

[Spector]

A screen does not necessarily mean the ATF is dirty etc. My Camry has a screen, never been flushed, just drain and fill whihc is what I did when I had a 95 and 98 Maxima. They had drain plugs for ATF. 95 went well over 100,000 with no flushes, drain and fills every 30,000 or so.

I do not like flushes with transmissions over 100,000 miles.

 

[FusilliJerry82]

Well now that I know these have drain plugs I have no problem just draining and refilling in quick succession. I think I may still have him get the remote filter kit though. Doesn't cost too much and provides a much higher level of protection IMO.

 

[PT1]

Do a cooler line fluid exchange and call it good. That trans went 109k with no extra filter. Adding one now is an overreach IMO. Flush it and keep going.

 

[FusilliJerry82]

Anyone have an opinion with doing the drain/refill with Dex VI instead of Dex III? Is D-VI compatible enough that it can be mixed with the Dex III already in the torque converter?

 

[nthach]

I've changed the filter on a 1996 Quest several times with no issues. Although the Nissan shop manual warns about a stud that could come loose.