87 Camry question about Engine cutting off only wh

[hardyrxp]

Hello to all,
Thanks to all for help with previous posts you guys are all the best and quite helpful.
Okay so my 87 Camry 2.0 5 speed has a serious problem of (ONLY WHEN THE CAR IT EXTREMELY HOT) when I turn the motor off and let it sit hot for about 4 minutes then it cranks/starts fine then immediately after that it dies. You can here that something is choking the engine even if the engine does start to idle it starts missing real bad and dies. Now to get the car running again all I need to do is give it a lot of throttle/gas when I start it up or turn the key off and let it cool down for a minute and then its good to go. So here is a list of what I have already done to fix the problem...... Inspected visually & physically all vac lines, cleaned EGR, EGR modulator, throttle body, and done complete tune up. I forgot to check the most simplest thing as this same problem happened on my 1990 Honda accord. Only when the car was extremely hot the main fuel relay would have the circuits separate and it would cause the car to crank and try to start but not continue to run. The EXACT SAME THING IS HAPPENDING WITH MY TOYOTA. So hence I think it may be the fuel main relay can someone please advise me as to where and if my 87 Camry has a fuel main relay and how to change it as well. Also there must be someone else on this forum that has experienced a similar problem with their 87-91 Camry please advise me here as I need some help with this one. The car is just not continuing to run after you try to start it when its extremely hot to me this means its being starved of fuel hence why I think the fuel main relay however that was the case with my HONDA and my Camry is different. So please advise me here if you think it might be something else or if the car has another relay for the fuel somewhere and if it is prone to going bad with heat and age please advise me thanks.
Dave

 

[ThirdeYe]

As I was reading your post I thought about the main fuel relay as well. I know my Acura had that happen 2 summers ago. I would try to start the car and it would shut off again right away. However, I could just start it again right away and it was fine. I didn't really have to wait for it to cool down. I wouldn't think that would cause missing and choking though...

 

[hardyrxp]

Yes it could be the problem but I am not sure. Do you knwo if a 87-91 Camry has a main fuel relay and where it is located?

 

[nthach]

How does the fuel pressure look like? Toyota is using a normal fuel pump circuit feed, unlike Honda's bass-ackwards system.

I'm thinking the fuel pump can't supply enough pressure at temp to keep things running or the injectors have heat soak issues.

 

[chad8]

Well you are on the right track with carbon I think. Next thing to clean is the throttle bore housing assembly.
You have to clean both sides of the plate and bore, its probably not seating properly in the bore because of crud build up.
Replace the PCV valve as it may be bringing to much engine residue into the housing
Check your air-duct from the intake to the Air Cleaner Filter. Squeeze the duct while the car is running. This will block air flow, and the engine will try to stall. Some of these ducts develope a small crack, and will leak more air when you do this test. This will cause the engine to stall out. This is because the air is now coming through the wide open crack and by-passing the air flow sensor inside the filter.

 

[hardyrxp]

Hello there,
Good suggestions I have already done the one above by Chad8 but thanks though. I did check all the things you listed above and everything looks okay.

As for the other suggestion of checking/replacing the fuel injectors this has not been done. How do you clean the fuel injectors or should I just replace them? Please advise me here I did a visual inspection they look good but don't know what they look like inside or if they even could be the problem please advise me thanks.
Dave

 

[mechtech2]

A good in tank cleaner is your first option.
Strong versions of Chevron Techron, Gumout Regane, or Amsoil's PI should clean and even out the injectors. They also clean the valves and CC.

 

[Mokanic]

Originally Posted By: hardyrxp
Hello to all,
Thanks to all for help with previous posts you guys are all the best and quite helpful.
Okay so my 87 Camry 2.0 5 speed has a serious problem of (ONLY WHEN THE CAR IT EXTREMELY HOT) when I turn the motor off and let it sit hot for about 4 minutes then it cranks/starts fine then immediately after that it dies. You can here that something is choking the engine even if the engine does start to idle it starts missing real bad and dies. Now to get the car running again all I need to do is give it a lot of throttle/gas when I start it up or turn the key off and let it cool down for a minute and then its good to go. So here is a list of what I have already done to fix the problem...... Inspected visually & physically all vac lines, cleaned EGR, EGR modulator, throttle body, and done complete tune up. I forgot to check the most simplest thing as this same problem happened on my 1990 Honda accord. Only when the car was extremely hot the main fuel relay would have the circuits separate and it would cause the car to crank and try to start but not continue to run. The EXACT SAME THING IS HAPPENDING WITH MY TOYOTA. So hence I think it may be the fuel main relay can someone please advise me as to where and if my 87 Camry has a fuel main relay and how to change it as well. Also there must be someone else on this forum that has experienced a similar problem with their 87-91 Camry please advise me here as I need some help with this one. The car is just not continuing to run after you try to start it when its extremely hot to me this means its being starved of fuel hence why I think the fuel main relay however that was the case with my HONDA and my Camry is different. So please advise me here if you think it might be something else or if the car has another relay for the fuel somewhere and if it is prone to going bad with heat and age please advise me thanks.
Dave


Put a coil in it and your problems will go away...After being a Toyota master tech for 20 years I think I have seen maybe one Toyota relay go bad. Coil is in the dist. and the heat is causing it to break on you..Don't buy a Napa/Carquest unit. A genuine Toyota unit isn't much if any higher.

 

[hardyrxp]

That is just the thing I forgot to mention sorry the distributor has been replaced within 1 year from advance auto a new (whole unit) distributor. So I did not check that because its new I guess I could but I don't know how to perform the test you are speaking of. I do have a volt meter I will have to learn how to do the test perhaps there is a video about it do you know? Well if the distributor is new which it is whats the next suspect that you would check? Let me ask you this what would happen if the fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, or the fuel pump were not working properly? Would any of these items cause the issues I am having ONLY when the car is extremely hot? Please advise thanks again for all your help now and in the past.
Dave

 

[artificialist]

Did you clean the IAC passage as well as the distributor? Has the IAC ever been replaced?

My dad's Lexus ES300 did the same thing because Of IAC problems. Easily started when cold, stalls multiple times when hot, unless the gas pedal is held down 25% of the way down.

 

[hardyrxp]

Hello there the distributor has been replaced within 1 year from advance auto a new (whole unit) distributor. Do you know how I could test the coil inside the distributor please advise me if you do thanks? Yes to other ?'s about IAC its been cleaned throughly and then some like new now and everything seems to work on it. Any other ideas on what could be causing the problem of only when its hot? thanks for you help.
Dave

 

[nthach]

You can test it with a DMM or a high-impedance analog multimeter set on the ohm scale. Here's something I think you'll find useful - mods delete this if this is considered piracy:
http://camrystuff.com/index.php?page=Gen2_Manuals

 

[hardyrxp]

Thanks very much for your help and info.
Dave

 

[hardyrxp]

Okay now I am getting very PERPLEXED HERE.... I tried a lot of stuff still the same problem I am running out of places/things to check on this car. I completed the job of cleaning & replacing the IAC that is NOT THE PROBLEM. The car is still doing the same thing. Now before I do anything else I will be asking many ? 's on here as I have done a lot of work for NOTHING..... Okay so here is my next suspect and question for you guys/girls. Would a dirty/clogged Fuel Filter cause/make the idle drop (only when car is hot) after starting the car when its hot? If a dirty fuel filter would not cause/make the problem with idle dropping then there is not point in checking/replacing it so please advise me on this question thanks. Next ? to all what do I check next I am running out of ideas on here guys PLEASE HELP.
Dave

 

[mechtech2]

What about MOKANIC's great advice?

Replacement distributors often use used parts, and are unreliable .
Sometimes you have to use their warranty 2-5 times, until you get a good one.

Ignition modules and coils often have high heat related problems.
This should be high on the list.

Also, if you have to hold the throttle to the floor to start a very hot engine, it normally means it is too rich. This is 'clear flood' mode. Leaking injectors could be a problem.

 

[hardyrxp]

Hello there,
Thanks for your help with this problem & responded back to me so quickly. Let me clear up some questions for you on here.
1st off car does not overheat new radiator, new coolant, hoses and is good. Camry have temp guage usually sitting 3/8 or right before it reaches the half way point after the car is warmed up and has been driven for a bit. That is what mine does same as other camry models like mine when it gets hot the dual fans come on to cool it and again the gauge stays near half way point only after the car is warmed up and has been driven some.
The car will do the following problem with this exact example. You drive the car for some time 20 miles for example does not matter city or highway what matters is the car is hot and at its normal operating temperature i.e. guage sitting @ 3/8 near the halfway mark. Then you stop in store come back out in less THEN 5 MINUTES and the car starts up then the rpms drop very low. Sometimes (it did this yesterday) also after rpm's drop the engine will die. This can be fixed by 1 waiting 10 seconds restart car or 2 start car then give a lot of gas. NOTE the car has never done the problem that I am describing above with the fans on. In other words after turning key to run position but before I start the car the fans will sometimes come on to cool motor. When I try to start it with fans on then the motor will not die. I can still hear it missing a bit but rpm's are up higher because that is what the car does anyways when the fans come on. MORE AND MORE I am feeling/thinking this problem is fuel related and is bad. Here are some more ? 's for you sorry for so many but I have no choice.....
What would happen if the engine coolant temperature sensor is bad? I think if it were bad then it may be out of range and not telling the computer the car is hot. This could produce an excessivley rich mixture for a hot engine? What do you think am I correct? If I am correct about above then it should be looked into please advise me thanks.
What does the fuel pressure regulator do? If it were bad could it cause the problem I am describing the car not starting only when hot? Thanks for your help in this matter.
How can I test the system to see if the coolant is circulating in the system?
Thanks for your help in all these questions and with this matter. Oh BTW I changed spark splugs today and one was bad it had the tip where you measure gap touching the plug so that can't be good. Color was okay a little hot (white) but not too bad. Could some bad plugs cause the problem described above? Thanks for all your help
Dave

 

[mechtech2]

A coolant sensor is VERY important to engine controls.
If it is this bad, codes should be thrown. but not always.

A fuel pressure regulator could also be faulty. High on the list of things to check.

Once again, you sound too rich, if flooring the gas is how it will start.

Spark plugs? New ones will almost always help, but this is not the problem.

 

[hardyrxp]

Hello there thanks for answering back. I don't have to floor the gas on the car to keep it running I just have to give it like 3-5k rpm's to keep it going. But sometimes when its bad I will let it sit for a bit then try to start it again and that will fix the problem. I concur with you I should check the sensor then the fuel pressure regulator. Thanks of your help I will let you know after I check the sensor although I think if it were bad I would be having other problems with the car.
Dave