85 Sentra 1.6l, 151k, unknown miles on oil

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We picked up this car, in good condition, but doesn't start and hasn't been started in ~9 years. It had been sitting outside under a tarp, so exposed to the air, but not to sun, rain, etc (due to tarp). The engine wouldn't crank when we got it, but we solved that due to a grounding issue. It now turns over, but still doesn't start. We're going to replace fuel filter and mechanical fuel pump next. The oil looked pretty clean on the dipstick, I'm guessing 500 miles or less on the oil. Previous owner said they had a hard time starting it the last time they started it (2013 or 2014). Only 151k on the engine and in very decent condition exterior and interior. Engine compartment doesn't look too bad, but lots of oil caked on the bottom of the engine/transmission area. We're in the beginning stages of messing with it, we're no experts, but having fun tinkering with it in our free time. I dumped the oil and took a sample about halfway through the drain (keep in mind, oil hasn't circulated in 9 years). Filled it up with Castrol Edge HM 5W30. The oil does look like it has very few miles on it based on TBN and metals. Fuel might be from the starting issues previous owner had. BTW, previous owner is the original owner, who bought it new. Engine is carbureted.

85 Sentra 041623.jpg
 
plugs/wires/cap/rotor coil/pickup/reluctor

Compression test time?

I'd get all that ol' gas dumped and refill with fresh fuel... and change the fuel filter before splurging on fuel pump

~70hp workhorse and not enough power to hurt itself.... what transmission?

By 1990, the 1.6 made 90hp. By 1992, a 1.6 made 110hp. And recently, the 1.6T Sentra made ~190hp. Times change.

Uses a 3/4-16 non-bypass filter. Can use the Toyota/VW PH3614 sized filter, or if there is room, the Ford/VW PH3600/PH2870a. Don't rely on the OE bypass valve. Its usually varnished/sludged seized and useless leading to issues common to all the Datsun/Nissan PH3682 engines.
 
Had a 5 speed 91' Sentra. Great little bucket.

The Oil was Probably changed right before failure. Check for spark. Distributor can cause issue within 150k. Just a cheap HF spark plug tester will work.

Mine had about 225k on it.
 
Hoping that you can get it back in serviceable condition. Several friends of mine had mid 80's to '89 Sentra's and got long life with little love out of them. Huge sellers and old Nissan quality.

From memory, I believe that the '89-'90 models had a three valve/cylinder engine before they went to the 16 valve version. I had new '91 and '93 Sentra SE-R's with the SR20 engine and limited slip. I would love to have one back.
 
That is a really neat little car!! Good job getting it back on the road!
In their day, they were very reliable, they just weren’t as popular as the Civic or Corolla. The hatchbacks like this were rarer than the sedan.
You don’t see them at all up here anymore; rust got them loooong ago, unfortunately a very disposable car.
I’d guess the oil you drained out was Pennzoil; that add-pack looks just like Pennzoil from about 10 years ago.
Please keep us updated on progress!
 
plugs/wires/cap/rotor coil/pickup/reluctor

Compression test time?

I'd get all that ol' gas dumped and refill with fresh fuel... and change the fuel filter before splurging on fuel pump

~70hp workhorse and not enough power to hurt itself.... what transmission?

By 1990, the 1.6 made 90hp. By 1992, a 1.6 made 110hp. And recently, the 1.6T Sentra made ~190hp. Times change.

Uses a 3/4-16 non-bypass filter. Can use the Toyota/VW PH3614 sized filter, or if there is room, the Ford/VW PH3600/PH2870a. Don't rely on the OE bypass valve. Its usually varnished/sludged seized and useless leading to issues common to all the Datsun/Nissan PH3682 engines.
Yes, it's a 5MT. We've already replaced plugs/wires/cap and rotor. And last night we put the new fuel filter in. We tried starting it again without success. Also I noticed the fuel filter never got filled with fuel while cranking the engine. I'm guessing that means the pump below it is not working? (I have a new mechanical fuel pump we haven't put in yet because it looks like a bigger job). We got a Wix FF, which is completely clear, we can even see the filter element inside very clearly. I have not dug into our service manuals yet, but I'm assuming when I crank the engine that should cause gas through the filter?

Regarding oil filter, I bought a Fram 3682 (standard orange can) from Amazon. I could not find any local auto parts that carried the size spec'd for this car. Are you saying the 3614 is better than the 3682 because it is non-bypass?

Thanks!
 
That is a really neat little car!! Good job getting it back on the road!
In their day, they were very reliable, they just weren’t as popular as the Civic or Corolla. The hatchbacks like this were rarer than the sedan.
You don’t see them at all up here anymore; rust got them loooong ago, unfortunately a very disposable car.
I’d guess the oil you drained out was Pennzoil; that add-pack looks just like Pennzoil from about 10 years ago.
Please keep us updated on progress!
I thought the same thing about the oil. LOL. Thanks!
 
It's a classic! If it was mine I'd see if it will fire on ether or a little gas directly in the carb. Then at least you've narrowed it down a bit.
Previous owner said this was how they got it started in the end, so I'm confident that would work again. Probably why fuel was so high in the oil sample.
 
It's a classic! If it was mine I'd see if it will fire on ether or a little gas directly in the carb. Then at least you've narrowed it down a bit.
Great idea!

Yeah, squirt some ether in the air duct w/filter removed & crank it over. If it lights up then it's definitely not getting fuel.
 
Great idea!

Yeah, squirt some ether in the air duct w/filter removed & crank it over. If it lights up then it's definitely not getting fuel.
Wouldn't the fact that the fuel filter is empty already tell us that fuel delivery is an issue? The new one I put on is clear, and after cranking the engine, it is bone dry. So perhaps it is the fuel pump?
 
Yes, it's a 5MT. We've already replaced plugs/wires/cap and rotor. And last night we put the new fuel filter in. We tried starting it again without success. Also I noticed the fuel filter never got filled with fuel while cranking the engine. I'm guessing that means the pump below it is not working? (I have a new mechanical fuel pump we haven't put in yet because it looks like a bigger job). We got a Wix FF, which is completely clear, we can even see the filter element inside very clearly. I have not dug into our service manuals yet, but I'm assuming when I crank the engine that should cause gas through the filter?

Regarding oil filter, I bought a Fram 3682 (standard orange can) from Amazon. I could not find any local auto parts that carried the size spec'd for this car. Are you saying the 3614 is better than the 3682 because it is non-bypass?

Thanks!
Fill the bowl with gas through the vent tube, you'll need to use a squirt bottle. Give it a couple of pumps manually from the carb and you should see gas going out of the accelerator pump down the barrel. Try to start it then and see if it will pop off for a second or two. Sometimes it just makes you feel better about working on some old pile if you know that it's gonna go when you get the other issues sorted.
 
Wouldn't the fact that the fuel filter is empty already tell us that fuel delivery is an issue? The new one I put on is clear, and after cranking the engine, it is bone dry. So perhaps it is the fuel pump?
Of course. Not insulting your intelligence lol However, if you can get it to crank with starting fluid with enough times it "Might" start flowing again. Maybe the old pump needs a good ol priming. However, If it's a mechanical pump then I'm sure it'll need replace anyways.
 
By the way, this 1985 Sentra resembles an AMC Eagle. Albeit, without the all wheel drive lift kit. I remember seeing them on the road quite a bit when I was younger in the late 80's early 90's. (y)
 
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