Chris142
Thread starter
44. 3.73Which axle is it? D44 or D35?
44. 3.73Which axle is it? D44 or D35?
Never leaked or ran lowDid that unit leak? Running low on lube would be my guess as to why the bearing failed. Early 2000s Jeeps had problems with leaking axle seals in my experience.
Well he has is own beliefs. One being that pz and qs make sludge. He is good at what he does but is not an oil nerd like us.You bring in you rear end to a guy you hopefully trust to rebuild the rear end then you question his oil choice???
This is my experience also. Good mechanics sometimes don't know anything about lubricants.Well he has is own beliefs. One being that pz and qs make sludge. He is good at what he does but is not an oil nerd like us.
Same as mine. Does it have trak-loc? Mine had some shiny bits in the oil last time I drained it but I believe it is from the worn clutch packs. The diff is quiet while driving.44. 3.73
It does have a trak loc....now. was open beforeSame as mine. Does it have trak-loc? Mine had some shiny bits in the oil last time I drained it but I believe it is from the worn clutch packs. The diff is quiet while driving.
Agreed. I have heard more than one person claim conventional gear lube is preferred for the break-in of an aftermarket gearset, and have read the same on some of the Jeep forums. I am not sure if any of that is true, but there is certainly no harm in following the builder's recommendation for the break-in oil.It's your axle. Let him fill it with 140 from the start and change it after you break it in, maybe after 500 miles or so.
Coulda saved lube, time and hassle if you had the gears REM polished before they went inI wasted good synthetic not accepting that my new Jeep would take 10k to stop shedding metal. Then - used 85W140 to get there. Now have 80W90 in - and will not use synthetic until 20K or more …
CarbonSteel has posted the same wrt his Rubicon
They are factory (4.10) gears …Coulda saved lube, time and hassle if you had the gears REM polished before they went in
I did on the 4.88 and 5.13 gears, but @4WD is correct and the factory 4.10s are iron shedders...Coulda saved lube, time and hassle if you had the gears REM polished before they went in
Others may chime in with a different opinion, but -20°C is -4°F and that is too cold for conventional gear oil to effectively flow.I think the rear end is starting to fail in my 05 Silverado, 235k miles...I had the axle seals replaced last xmas and just noticed doing the last tire rotation it's starting to leak again from the same side....also seems like excess play forward and backward when turning the wheel and changing direction...and possibly excess side to side play. No noise when driving yet.
Is it worth trying 85w140 to try to get through to summer before rebuilding or swapping the rear? We get as cold as minus 20 C here.
I think the rear end is starting to fail in my 05 Silverado, 235k miles...I had the axle seals replaced last xmas and just noticed doing the last tire rotation it's starting to leak again from the same side....also seems like excess play forward and backward when turning the wheel and changing direction...and possibly excess side to side play. No noise when driving yet.
Is it worth trying 85w140 to try to get through to summer before rebuilding or swapping the rear? We get as cold as minus 20 C here.
Yeah I just to want to prevent it from getting much worse before I can get it fixed.Others may chime in with a different opinion, but -20°C is -4°F and that is too cold for conventional gear oil to effectively flow.
I would use a cheap 75W-140 instead. I am assuming you are talking about extending the life versus stopping the leak as that will not likely happen no matter what oil is used.
Yeah I assume that's likely why it began leaking again (shop didn't inform me of the wear which was likely there the first time the seal failed). I can spray off the oil with brake cleaner every 5k or so, but I was mostly worried about the rest of the rear end degrading before I get the chance to rebuild it. I'm betting there is more than just the axle worn out.I doubt that would make much difference in the leak. Your axles may have a grove where the lip of the seal rides. My Suburban had that issue and needed new axles to correct it.