6th gen accord (2000) stick

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Apr 30, 2019
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673
Location
kansas
Ok fellow bitogers I'm potentially about to stumble as* backwards into a 2000 accord 2.3 with the manual transmission and 140k miles for get this, 1000 smackers. It was purchased new by my friends family and passed throughout their children and while not perfectly babied it was never abused and maintenance was kept up with well.

They state that its the original clutch so im thinking to budget one of those just in case but other than that what have your guy's experiences been with these vehicles? Common problems and what to prep for?

I've poked around videos and reviews to find egr, misfire, motor mounts and i know ill need to see when the timing belt was done.
 
Ok fellow bitogers I'm potentially about to stumble as* backwards into a 2000 accord 2.3 with the manual transmission and 140k miles for get this, 1000 smackers. It was purchased new by my friends family and passed throughout their children and while not perfectly babied it was never abused and maintenance was kept up with well.

They state that its the original clutch so im thinking to budget one of those just in case but other than that what have your guy's experiences been with these vehicles? Common problems and what to prep for?

I've poked around videos and reviews to find egr, misfire, motor mounts and i know ill need to see when the timing belt was done.
My folks bought a 98 Accord LX 2.3. Great car, easy to do basic maintenance. After my Dad passed away a couple of years back, I gave it to a single Mom; I just did an oil change on it today.
Suspect all mounts. Timing belt service every 100K. The LX comes with rear drum brakes; the fronts are easily servicable.
The catalytic converter will run you about $400K. Ouch!

Easy to drive and one of the good Hondas. The V6 automatics were troublesome, the 4 bangers had more than their share of problems. So a manual might be the hot ticket!
An older vehicle like that will be cheaper to register and insure. Good luck!
Frank booties 20220218.jpeg
 
Make sure you install a keeper/retainer on the balance shaft seal. They like to work their way out and all of a sudden you're puking mass quantities of oil everywhere.

Looks like this:


The heater hose that runs under the distributor. Take a close look. If/when the distributor leaks oil, it leaks right on that hose and softens it over time. Fix the leak, replace the hose or you can have an unexpected blowout.

Those are the two things that jump right out for me. Otherwise a solid car. Wish my wifes hadn't been destroyed.
 
If you need a clutch, get Exedy

If you need to replace the TB, get the Aisin kit.

You're lucky enough to have access to fluid you can actually use in your transmission. Honda manual transmissions can take motor oil (I think 10w30 was called for back then), but there's also Pennzoil or Valvoline Synchromesh you could use, or Royal Purple Synchromax if you like synthetic.

Motor mounts are something that should come from the dealer.

Honda actually sells OEM quick struts for your Accord.
 
I would suggest you get it. I daily drive a 2002 accord 2.3 auto. I got it 9 years ago at around 150k. It just passed 250k. It has been extremely reliable. Never left me stranded. Starts easy and is generally a pleasure to work on. Build quality is great. No interior creaks or rattles. Common issue is the ac drain drips right into the front passenger subframe and can cause it to rust out. But new subframe is cheap anyway. Typical issues for any car of this age is rust on the fuel tank, fuel lines, brake lines. I have replaced those items on my car. The way the tanks designed it can hold dirt and rust out. I would look at replacing the brushes in the alternator as they may be close to wearing out.
 
6 gen accords aren't all that bad, maintenance on anything is key...i bought a 99 accord 4 years ago and it's been one of the best daily drivers I've ever owned, did the timing belt and of course brakes, tires just the basic normal stuff when I bought it.
 
I had a 1998 manual 2.3. I drove it from 175k miles to about 295. I think it was the most problem-free vehicle I've owned. Towards the end, it started having an issue with running rough in wet weather, probably something with the distributor, but I don't remember if I figured it out.

When I bought it, it had a bad ignition switch and it shut off on the highway... that was scary. The switch was covered by a recall, but had already been replaced once.

My clutch died at around 220k miles. FWD, so not easy to replace, but SMF so it was cheap. I thought the car was a lot of fun to drive, a smooth motor that you had to rev for power and a decent gearshift.
 
Some more info on it it has mostly been garaged for its lifetime and rust has not been much of an issue at all. As for the catalytic converter it had gotten stolen about a year ago and they opted to replace the entire exhaust on it.
I appreciate everyone’s input when they tell me it’s available I’m going to jump on it.
 
Some more info on it it has mostly been garaged for its lifetime and rust has not been much of an issue at all. As for the catalytic converter it had gotten stolen about a year ago and they opted to replace the entire exhaust on it.
I appreciate everyone’s input when they tell me it’s available I’m going to jump on it.
You should be cuffed and put in the back of the car. You stole it!
Well done!
 
Do NOT let this one slip through your fingers. The 6th gen Accord was one of the best chassis Honda offered, with the ultimate bonus being a 2.3/5MT example.
 
Yeah its really one of the last modern cars that really has its roots on the 80s and 90s honda. Distributor ignition, older engine architecture and at least my lx has no abs or traction control. Just power windows, locks, and a/c. Easy to see out of and a tight turning radius.
 
Yeah, mine also had no ABS or traction control. I think ABS is good thing, though.

Cable throttle is more responsive than DBW, I think. Maybe I just haven't had good DBW.
 
Yeah, mine also had no ABS or traction control. I think ABS is good thing, though.

Cable throttle is more responsive than DBW, I think. Maybe I just haven't had good DBW.
Yeah abs is a good thing. Dbw is fantastic actually in theory and can be extremely responsive or even overboosted for a greater than 1:1 pedal to throttle body relation. Oem’s put an input lag in there as a safety barrier for the average joe to help with sudden wheel spin or unintentional acceleration. But good old throttle cable is reliable and consistently responsive. One thing i leaned from eric the car guy on these hondas is to check the throttle cable for slack and adjust it out. It makes a world of difference is the perceived feel of quickness and responsiveness on an otherwise slow vehicle.
 
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