6.75 hp Briggs Engine oil

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Klutch9

Klutch9

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Ive got myself a 6.75 hp briggs engine on a craftsman lawn mower. This will be the 10th year of using this mower, and so far it hasnt given me any problems whatsoever (still on the original spark plug and air filter too
shocked2.gif
). so far i've used straight 30wt oil with no problems, but ive considered using a multigrade (possibly 10w30) oil this year. i know this is a pretty common engine, so what are you guys using?
 
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I use 20w-50 conventional with annual OCI"s on all my air cooled lawn engines and my oldest is a 1987. Your summers are not nearly as hot or long as mine but I would think that a quality 10w30 would be fine.
 
Use what you have unless youre willing to put syn in.

Multigrade conventional oils dont seem to be approved - just synthetics.

A good synthetic for that application is Amsoil ACD 10w30/30. Its really a straight 30wt that flows like a 10w30. Ive used it for many years in my stuff.

Im also a fan of using HDEOs, particularly 5w-40s. If you have a summer only item, 15w40 is surely fine... Im not sure how well it splashes up in the cold of winter though...
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Use what you have unless youre willing to put syn in.

Multigrade conventional oils dont seem to be approved - just synthetics.

A good synthetic for that application is Amsoil ACD 10w30/30. Its really a straight 30wt that flows like a 10w30. Ive used it for many years in my stuff.

Im also a fan of using HDEOs, particularly 5w-40s. If you have a summer only item, 15w40 is surely fine... Im not sure how well it splashes up in the cold of winter though...


its only used in warm weather, so something thick would still work well IMO
 
I'm partial to syn in a small engine, because of the near dino limit high temps, especially air cooled ones. Multi-visc oil has adds that may not take high temps as well unless a syn used. I would break in with dino because you need to change it 3-5 times and fairly often so a waste of money with more expensive syn oil.A 10 year old plug may still work but a new one may ease starting and get more mpg's if you will. Also that old filter, is it foam? do you clean/inspect it regularly? you need that bead of foam around the edge to seal the parts of 2 piece metal filter cover. If it's missing not a good seal and letting to much dirt into engine.Get plug and filter and some oil in a kit for about 8$, not much amortized over 10 yrs.
 
Originally Posted By: jldcol
I'm partial to syn in a small engine, because of the near dino limit high temps, especially air cooled ones. Multi-visc oil has adds that may not take high temps as well unless a syn used. I would break in with dino because you need to change it 3-5 times and fairly often so a waste of money with more expensive syn oil.A 10 year old plug may still work but a new one may ease starting and get more mpg's if you will. Also that old filter, is it foam? do you clean/inspect it regularly? you need that bead of foam around the edge to seal the parts of 2 piece metal filter cover. If it's missing not a good seal and letting to much dirt into engine.Get plug and filter and some oil in a kit for about 8$, not much amortized over 10 yrs.


yes i do clean the filter regularly, and i regap the plug every year also. still runs great!
 
I was using the Briggs oil in my 6.75 Briggs Troy Bilt until the second OCI. There was no noticable consumption. At the 2nd OCI I changed it to 5w30 synthetic (PP). It consumed it rather quickly, so I switched to 20W-50 Lucas full syn. Consumption slowed to nearly null.

Mine might be an isolated case, but it's been my experience that these engines can have a thirst for thinner syns.
 
Originally Posted By: ViragoBry
I was using the Briggs oil in my 6.75 Briggs Troy Bilt until the second OCI. There was no noticable consumption. At the 2nd OCI I changed it to 5w30 synthetic (PP). It consumed it rather quickly, so I switched to 20W-50 Lucas full syn. Consumption slowed to nearly null.

Mine might be an isolated case, but it's been my experience that these engines can have a thirst for thinner syns.


thats probably quite common. it makes sense that a thinner oil would be consumed more quickly than a thicker one. this motor almost never ate any oil while using straight 30wt. i did notice though that the dirtier the oil got, the more it got consumed. did you notice the motor getting any quieter with the 20w-50? i've used Honda mowers before and OMFG they are so quiet. anything close to that on my Briggs would be amazing
 
I'd dump the straight 30 weight. The stuff costs more for outdated technology. And the companies don't update the add-packs like they do on the most current oils.

I like your plan on using Mobil 1 10w30. You should notice a difference in how easy it is to start.

Regardless, just keep an eye on consumption until you see an established pattern. My guess it it will be very low ... maybe add 4-6oz once per year.
 
I would use Amsoil 4 Stroke 10w30 makes my snow-blower, lawn mowers, and tractors start with ease and they perform very well.
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Anything will work in a B&S engine because it's a very basic design without complicated emission or fuel controls...


even 75w-90 geal oil?
crazy2.gif
haha
 
I have changed some oil in some old B&S units that were badly abused and the stuff came out like this, so yes... It will run like this IMO!
grin2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC
I would use Amsoil 4 Stroke 10w30 makes my snow-blower, lawn mowers, and tractors start with ease and they perform very well.


This is all I will run in my 4-stroke engines! I don't quite understand the whole 10w30/SAE30 wt deal but the Formula 4 stroke is the best I have found!

I was running Royal Purple 10w30 and the Amsoil is $2 cheaper and isn't moly based. Still running Wix oil filters in the mowing equipment and won't look back on that!
 
I run it in the Deere which calls for a 5w30, and in the mower which asks for a straight weight and both run awesome. I also run it in my snow blower and half-1 pull and it's running. Gotta love it!
 
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