5w40 Rotella Syn vs. Amsoil 20W-50(MCV)

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11,211
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Bad Axe, MI
And Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50. is there any big difference between these 3 oils? i need to decide for this spring what i want to use in my yamaha atv WITH a wet clutch and air cooled this thing runs hot too so I'd like to stay with a thicker synthetic oil. I've looked at some UOA and VOA on all three seem equal for the most part. any thoughts??
 

daman

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11,211
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Bad Axe, MI
they say use 10-40,but i think that's too thin for as hot as this thing runs. I'm using Yamalube 20-40 dinno juice now, want to step up to a syn. because of the heat.
 
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2,591
Location
MN
A 10W40 Synthetic will hold up just fine. I run Amsoil 10W40 or Mobil 1 MXT10W40 and they do just fine in air cooled dirt bikes.
 
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106
Location
WI.
I started running MCV 20w-50 in my Honda Foremans & Big Red's much improved shifts and then if your stuck, engine full of mud, you'll need all the oil you can get.
 

daman

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11,211
Location
Bad Axe, MI
Quote:
I started running MCV 20w-50 in my Honda Foremans & Big Red's much improved shifts and then if your stuck, engine full of mud, you'll need all the oil you can get.
Thanks,,we ride alot down in a sand pit where alot of times there's not alot of ground speed to keep air flow on the jug(motor) so they run HOT, i think a 20-50 would work better in this case.
 
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34,146
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Southern NJ
Have you considered Redline? In all honesty, the Mobil 1 V-Twin is as good as it gets. The Amsoil is right up there also, but you have to order it. Up to you....
 
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15,763
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NE,Ohio
With a wet clutch dont you have to have unfriction modified oil? Isnt redline highly friction modified? Or am I missing something .
 
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5,785
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Dixie
The Amsoil 10w-40/20w-50 MC oils are now widely available in Motorcycle and small engine shops, so it's very easy to find. Both the Mobil and Amsoil are excellent oils...but I'd go with the 10w-40 and not the 20w-50, particularly if you ride in cool to cold weather. The shifting will be much better with the thinner stuff. TS
 
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1,039
Location
Mississippi
I use the Amsoil 0w-40 synthetic in my atv's, a Honda Rancher, a Yamaha Bruin and Honda TRX 90. The Bruin was starting to smoke on start-up but the Amsoil stopped that! The temps here in N Mississippi get pretty hot and the oil cooler fans on the larger atvs' ran less this year than last due no doubt to the synthetic oil. Nothing but Amsoil in my atv's!
 
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137
Location
Milwaukee
I too swear by Amsoils 0w-40 for ATV's and 4-stroke sleds. Cant beat the year round use. As far as what MC oil for the guy who started this thread, definitly stick with MC specific oil. Dont even bother taking a chance with oils not labeled energy conserving. They wont do harm, but they arent fortified with additives to deal your wet clutch shearing effects and tranny gears sharing the motor oil. First have to pick a weight. Determine that by your location and outside temps you often start the bike in. Here in Wisconsin and you in Michigan, you'd be nuts to run 20w-50 all year round, but people do. 10w-40 is a better for year round use, 5w-40 is even better. Regarding 5w-40 Rotella T, its a great oil, but its not a true synthetic like Mobil and Amsoil and does not meet JASO specs. Here it is from the horses mouth... http://rotella.com/qa/answerresult.php?rowid=239
 

daman

Thread starter
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11,211
Location
Bad Axe, MI
I don't run this ATV year around only in the summer, i think i'll be going with eather the M1 or Ams 20w50, i ride down in sand pits alot, and we don't get enough ground speed alot of the times to cool the motors so they run HOT, i think 20w50 will shure help.
 
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137
Location
Milwaukee
If your ATV is liquid cooled, temp is held within a close range at all times. So heavy oil doesnt benifit much, but it typically wont hurt eiter. (manual shifting ATV will be tougher when cold though) You cant beat the two options you left for MC/ATV oil...M1 and Amsoil. And your ATV its air cooled...your definitly on the right track!
 
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608
Location
So. IN
Quote:
I too swear by Amsoils 0w-40 for ATV's and 4-stroke sleds. Cant beat the year round use. As far as what MC oil for the guy who started this thread, definitly stick with MC specific oil. Dont even bother taking a chance with oils not labeled energy conserving. They wont do harm, but they arent fortified with additives to deal your wet clutch shearing effects and tranny gears sharing the motor oil. First have to pick a weight. Determine that by your location and outside temps you often start the bike in. Here in Wisconsin and you in Michigan, you'd be nuts to run 20w-50 all year round, but people do. 10w-40 is a better for year round use, 5w-40 is even better. Regarding 5w-40 Rotella T, its a great oil, but its not a true synthetic like Mobil and Amsoil and does not meet JASO specs. Here it is from the horses mouth... http://rotella.com/qa/answerresult.php?rowid=239
We first need to understand what the horse is telling us when it speaks... First off, picking a moto specific oil may well provide a less than learned consumer with a fluid that will be fine for use in their application. But, those who actually take the time to read between the lines of marketing campaigns, and research things a bit more indepth than simply reading a magazine add, find that there are many oils on the shelf that, althought they may not be marketed towards a paricular niche in the industry, are fully capable of providing as good of, or even better in many cases, protection than what the higher-priced moto-specific fluids will. I think you meant to warn against using Energy Conserving oils, which is another typical warning that tends to be unfounded, as there is very little evidence to support there being any problems at all experienced by use in a mechanically sound wet clutch application. And the reduction of ZDDP sure doesn't mean that the oil isn't fortified well enough to handle the rigors of the off-road vehicle. It might well elude to that being the case, but evidence proves otherwise in many, many instances. As far as Rotella not being a true synthetic...well it is a group III hydrocarbon, but it has been engineered to handle an increased amount of heat while exhibiting better handling of temp variations than group II oils. Just because the oil isn't a PAO doesn't mean that it isn't up to task. We should be changing out the fluids in an off-road vehicle much sooner than the oil competely degrades anyway. And unless your engine is seeing the very extremes of it's abilities for long periods, it probably doesn't benefit from the synthetic basestocks. Extended OCI's shouldn't be a serious consideration with these types of performance engines. You apparently misread what Shell is telling you on their website that you provided. The language they are using makes it quite clear that the Rotella products are very good choices for 4t engines. They also state clearly that the formulation is not one that has been put on the convention wisdom watchlist, that often gets unduely touted. No, Rotella oils are fine to use in all off-road, wet clutch applications. Both the chemistry, and most all anecdotal evidence, supports it. Only the less-than-learned, and those with alterior agenda's, can possibly have issue with these fluids in off-road performance applications of any flavor. And I hadn't even mentioned economy yet....
 
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