Which Rotella for my bike?

[Roadstar_RIder]

This is for the Yamaha Roadstar 1700cc air cooled V-Twin and I have three choices available to me, but none are ideal. So which would you use? First, due to the flat tappet cams, I need an oil with at least 1200 PPM ZDDP. Also, I'd Ideally like a JASO rated oil for the wet clutch that shares oil with the motor. [But I understand some non JASO rated Rotella oils still work fine.] And since the weather is getting hotter every year, and temps frequently exceed 110°F, with a very hot running air cooled motor I'd prefer a high enough viscosity rating to handle ambient temps up to 120°F. The three Rotellas available to me are: T5 10w30- semi synthetic, JASO rated, but the viscosity is only rated up to 95°F ambient temp, T5 15w40- semi synthetic,*not* JASO rated, but the viscosity is rated up to 104°F ambient temp. T6 5w40- *full* synthetic, JASO rated, the viscosity is rated up to 104°F ambient temp, but VOAs show ZDDP as low as 1050 PPM [Both T5s are around 1200 PPM per VOAs.] So what say you? Note: There is a T6 15w40, but at it's price point, I'd just assume stick with Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w50. The whole reason I'm considering Rotella is because M1 V-Twin runs $10-$13 a quart depending if it's on sale. Thx for the input,

 

[krismoriah72]

Well there is a fourth Rotella.... T4 15w40 Loaded with ZDDP TBN 10+ Here is a recent thread on it https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4619477/Rotella_T4_is_JASO_MA/MA2 Here is a VOA http://pqiadata.org/Shell_Rotella_T4_15W40_4192017.html None are ideal? what is so special about yours? If you want the 'feel goods' take a look at Actevo 4T 20w50 at walmart for $18.97/gallon https://www.walmart.com/ip/Castrol-Actevo-4T-20W-50-Part-Synthetic-Motorcycle-Oil-1-GAL/467873859 If your want an oil that has been listed as 'unable to shear with a samurai sword'... look at Valvoline 4 Stroke 20w50 at Walmart $4.54/qt. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvolin...-Conventional-Motor-Oil-1-Quart/16879750 Rotella T4 has a long pedigree on these boards.. So unless you are doing something way different than anyone else... its good stuff.

 

[Lolvoguy]

If you feel better about running Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w50, then stick with it. Clearly no amount of discussion is enough for us to convince you otherwise from the last thread you started, the to abundance of info already posted on this forum.

 

[Roadstar_RIder]

Originally Posted by Lolvoguy

If you feel better about running Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w50, then stick with it. Clearly no amount of discussion is enough for us to convince you otherwise from the last thread you started, the to abundance of info already posted on this forum.

Wait, what? It's *because you guys have convinced me* that I'm asking which one I should use? I'm ready to pull the trigger and I just want to make sure it do it right. Yamaha built an amazing motor, unlike other bikes in it's class. [HD] Roadstar motors regularly go well beyond 100k miles without ever needing a rebuild... But it's only Achilles Heal is you have to use the proper oil. I'm just a cautious individual who's learned the hard way from experience that I need to be thorough. Don't take it personal. Believe me when I say I'm grateful for the input you guys have given.

 

[Kawiguy454]

You have left one out I think would cover you. I have been using M1 15w50 in all my bikes for years one of which is supercharged. Last i knew it has 1200 ppm. No slipping clutch, SC drive or valve train issues. At WM i can get a big jug for $23. I also like the T6 Xw40 in the cruiser no clutch issue.

 

[BusyLittleShop]

Originally Posted by Roadstar_RIder

T5 10w30- semi synthetic, JASO rated, but the viscosity is only rated up to 95°F ambient temp, T5 15w40- semi synthetic,*not* JASO rated, but the viscosity is rated up to 104°F ambient temp. T6 5w40- *full* synthetic, JASO rated, the viscosity is rated up to 104°F ambient temp, but VOAs show ZDDP as low as 1050 PPM [Both T5s are around 1200 PPM per VOAs.] So what say you?

All 3 choices will meet and exceed your mileage expectations only the freer flowing 30 grade will lower your engines operating temp because oil drag real...

 

[ad244]

Originally Posted by Kawiguy454

You have left one out I think would cover you. I have been using M1 15w50 in all my bikes for years one of which is supercharged. Last i knew it has 1200 ppm. No slipping clutch, SC drive or valve train issues. At WM i can get a big jug for $23. I also like the T6 Xw40 in the cruiser no clutch issue.

Thats great to hear that you have had luck running this oil in Wet clutch applications.

 

[FastGame]

Originally Posted by ad244

Originally Posted by Kawiguy454

You have left one out I think would cover you. I have been using M1 15w50 in all my bikes for years one of which is supercharged. Last i knew it has 1200 ppm. No slipping clutch, SC drive or valve train issues. At WM i can get a big jug for $23. I also like the T6 Xw40 in the cruiser no clutch issue.

Thats great to hear that you have had luck running this oil in Wet clutch applications.

Motorcyclist have used M1 15w-50 ever since it hit the market, it works well.

 

[Roadstar_RIder]

Originally Posted by BusyLittleShop

All 3 choices will meet and exceed your mileage expectations only the freer flowing 30 grade will lower your engines operating temp because oil drag real...

Lower operating temps are *definitely* a good thing, cuz some days my thighs feel like the hotdogs on a 7-11 rotisserie! [I'm not kidding] I literally have to put my hands under my legs at stop lights to shield them from burning. However, it's another 100+° day today, [I'm actually seeing 109°F in some of my usual riding areas] how would a 10w30 hold up in those situations? Especially on steep twisty mountain roads where the motor and clutch get a strenuous workout? [Emphasis on the STEEP and TWISTY bit] I often have to ride my clutch to get up and around some corners.

 

[BusyLittleShop]

Originally Posted by Roadstar_RIder

how would a 10w30 hold up in those situations? Especially on steep twisty mountain roads where the motor and clutch get a strenuous workout?

A steep and twisty road like Race Way 9 near Alice's is not as strenuous as stop and go rush hour Bay Area traffic is on an air cooled engine and yet owners report no problems running a 30 grade full synthetic... RaceWay 9 hair pin...

 

[EchoWars]

I'd be looking for an oil viscosity that was recommended by the manufacturer. If you feel the need for a ZDDP bump, then go with the Valvoline 4T synthetic. Available in 10W-40 and 20W-50, rated for bikes (wet clutches), and can be had at the local Walmart for less than $8 a quart. What's not to like?

 

[Bonz]

Ran T5 15w40 in the ZRX and did well, however I do like the higher zinc the motorcycle specific Mobil 1 oils have. T6 5w40 will shear down to a 30 weight fairly quickly, may as well go with 10w30 T5 at that point. How about split the difference and go with Mobil 1 10w40 4T racing? That stuff barely shears, has better flow rate than the M1 V-Twin 20w 50, and rated at 1300z/1200p. Lol, sounds weird but why not? And don't forget about Mobil 1 15w50 as was mentioned, I got a good analysis years ago with that in the ZRX. However the used analysis after 4,000 miles showed nowhere near the amount of zinc and phosphorus they advertise. I guess the proof is in the analysis, but I like zinc and phosphorus as I have said. By the way, how long do you plan to go on the oil change interval? Under 3,000 miles you may as well stick with a conventional. If you're going to go past 3000 miles, go with a synthetic and run it for 5,000 or 6,000 miles. Your cost will be relatively the same with a longer interval.

 

[BigMoneyGrip]

I just put the T6 15w40 in my VTX. With 1800cc's and a 205 car tire, the clutch doesn't slip.