5w30 v. 10w30

[cheetahdriver]

overk1ll, you have a point, my thought was that it would be a good rough indication of where 10w oils were vs 0w and 5w. i believe the numbers show quite conclusively that 10w oils don't do nearly as good of a job in lubrication as the lighter weights. things get a bit more murky in the 5w vs 0w range.

i BELIEVE (but do not know) that the 0w20 OAs were badly skewed by the number of priuses (priusi?) in the sample. the stop start cycle on these can't be easy on the bearings. the 0w30 vs 5w30 numbers are even more interesting...

i think the only way to actually get any numbers that really were definitive would be to be able to datamine blackstone's database. of course, that would be a snapshot of what was for sale LAST year, not this year.

 

[vance1]

what kind of oil filter would you recomend for this type of change interval?

 

[demarpaint]

If you are only logging 3000 miles a year most filters will handle that with ease. If you want a better filter, then I would suggest a Purolator Pure One filter. They can be found on Amazon.com sometimes in a 2 for 1 deal making them a great value.

JMO,
Frank D

 

[bigjohn]

big fan of Rotella syn.....

Have run it in my Toyota's and Motorcycles.... It is, in my opinion, the all-purpose oil for everything....

 

[vance1]

I actually use the rotella 5w40 in my honda shadow and a pure one filter on the bike as well. I also use the pure one in both of my regular use vehicles, 93 tahoe and 07 G6. I use a mix of rotella 5w40 and 15w40 for my riding lawn mower. I have found it to be a great oil as well. I was just wondering with such a long interval how the pureone would hold up and how the engine would if it is prone to sludge. Someone mentioned this engine was on Amsoils sludge list. Come to think of it though, the bike only gets changed once a year and everything looks great in it. The oil looks like it did when I first put it in and the transmission shifts better than ever.

 

[grease_monkey]

Originally Posted By: Zaedock
Originally Posted By: fsskier
Why would I want a vehicle that needs towed every winter when skiing the mountains and morning temps reach -40, or lower?

Hint: you miss a day of skiing, and there are many more failed vehicles than there are wreckers.


I have no idea what you're saying. There are mountains in Iowa?
LOL. Who would run 10W30 when it's -40? For that matter, who would run 5W30?



Originally Posted By: fsskier
Another poster said "most wear occurs at startup, not during warmup" and yet the very complete tests published by GM and
Mobil - and others - show that piston/cylinder wear is far greater during warmup. Once the oil is hot, and viscosity reaches "10" the oil flying off the rod bearings and up onto the cylinder wall is like a shower, and wear is nearly zilch.

Thick (cold) oil hardly flows out of the rod bearings at all (remember, .002 clearance) and the cylinder walls run with very marginal lubrication until the oil thins.


Well, show me the papers. I remember seeing an older paper on SAE30 showing it protected better than 10W30 during startup. I couldn't find the paper here, but I know I've seen it.

Besides that, consider that a typical Jeep club trail ride consists of driving a bit, winching, high RPM in low range on tough obstacles, stop to extricate someone, start and go again(still in low range), etc. My engine hardly gets to operating temp, nevermind the oil getting hot. So if "far greater wear" occurs during warm up, where was all the wear in the last two used oil analysis of my 2.5L Jeep trail rig running SAE30 (the beefy 12.1cSt Delo) or 10W40? How about when I was sitting on my side waiting to get pushed back over?

There is no question that 5W30 flows better when it's cold out. That's a no brainer. The idea though, that thick oil is the devil and that my engine will pop if I don't run 0W20 doesn't make sense. I'm not against thin oils (I use 5W20 in my F150), but thick oils have their place too.

Originally Posted By: grease_monkey
Personally I wouldn't run rotella 5w40 in a gasoline engine especially if it was manufactured from 2000 to present mainly because of the additive package in it. Rotella is a diesel engine oil so the additive package put in there would not be designed to be used in a gasoline engine.


Sorry man, that just isn't true. Rotella 5W40 is SM rated and perfectly fine for gasoline use. People (including me) have been running HDEO's for years.


Well i wont argue with what you are sayin but the rotella that is sold at my work is both 5w40 & 15w40 and only has an api rating of CJ 4 plus so it might be possible that we have old stock or mis communication. also mmight be possible that rotella 5w40 sm is available where you live but not in my neck of the woods. i will have to look and find out. well any how goodbye and good luck

 

[CrAlt]

I run 20w50 in my old 318 (pre-magnum 5.2L) ram because the valve seals are shot. The thicker oil helps alot with smoking at start up. I was camping up in VT and forgot that oil was in there. The high one day was 12F. I was reminded what oil I was running when i started the truck. Cranked slow but started no prob. Oil PSI took a wile to come up and the lifters where talking to me for a little wile. Just let it warm up for about 20mins before moving it. The ram has 220K+ miles on it and has lived a hard life.

If the truck doesn't puff a little blue smoke when you 2st start it then i'ed run what ever you want. These are not picky motors.

EDIT: oops. I didnt notice how old this thread is...sorry for bumping it.

 

[MillerMan]

there is a problem with using 20w50 in those old mopars maybe
it's intake valve sludge build up, run some cleaner threw the gas once in a while

 

[jldcol]

How about an obvious compromise, use both 5w in colder temps and 10w in warmer ones. I think someone asked above at what does temp does 5w become 10w, or something like that. I would say from 100deg and up little difference. The cold flow ratings seem to say that whatever temp the 10w has acceptable flow the 5w will have the same flow or better 5deg C colder or 9deg F.