All this about if different oil can change the sound of a running engine?
Of course it can.
Of course it can.
5w30 over 5w20
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Originally Posted By: mechtech2
All this about if different oil can change the sound of a running engine?
Of course it can.
Agreed. My ex-wife complained her Subaru was noisier when I put M1 in it. While she can change her own oil, she's not an oil junkie. When I put Syntec Blend back in, she noticed it was quieter. This was with the same grade oil.
I put M1 in my previous CR-V, on two different occasions. I thought it was noisier the first time, went back to GTX, and on a whim tried M1 again later. Noisier both times, and my ex-wife could tell too. Again, this was with the same grade.
I just changed my current CR-V from 5W-20 to 5W-30, mainly to see if the engine would be quieter (i.e., sounding less like an air-cooled Volkswagen and sounding more like a Lexus). It did make a difference, and this morning I could tell there was less clatter as it was warming up.
All this about if different oil can change the sound of a running engine?
Of course it can.
Agreed. My ex-wife complained her Subaru was noisier when I put M1 in it. While she can change her own oil, she's not an oil junkie. When I put Syntec Blend back in, she noticed it was quieter. This was with the same grade oil.
I put M1 in my previous CR-V, on two different occasions. I thought it was noisier the first time, went back to GTX, and on a whim tried M1 again later. Noisier both times, and my ex-wife could tell too. Again, this was with the same grade.
I just changed my current CR-V from 5W-20 to 5W-30, mainly to see if the engine would be quieter (i.e., sounding less like an air-cooled Volkswagen and sounding more like a Lexus). It did make a difference, and this morning I could tell there was less clatter as it was warming up.
Originally Posted By: lovcom
Using 5w-30 over 5w-20 does not make an engine run quieter. It's all in your your head, and my father's head too:
He told me to "DUMP" the 5w-20 out of his Civic because he claims it makes his engine run noisier. So I did dump the 5w-20 and put in more 5w-20. Then I told him I put in 5w-30.
Guess what he said? He told me the engine runs "much quieter".
Unless you have a sound laboratory, with $1,000,000 insturments for testing, I will not believe your unscientific claims. I would expect such claims from a high school drop out living in a trailer park, but no one educated.
I have run 0w-20, 5w-20, 0w-30, 5w-30 and 0w-40 in my 1.5L Yaris and it all sounds the same.
Do you need an acoustic lab to hear piston slap, injectors firing, a bad bearing, etc.? Why do you suppose that there are multiple suppliers who sell stethoscopes for automobile engine maintenance? Why do you suppose that the car makers themselves bother to add resonator chambers to intake systems on our cars?
Well, it's because people CAN hear the differences in how their engines are operating under one set of conditions vs another set of conditions.
Yet we are to believe that it's not possible that a different oil may affect how an engine sounds? That's the only variable that can't have any impact on how an engine sounds to the user? Really?????
Now, of course, some people will hear what they want to, and the power of suggestion is always in play with the human mind, but none of that means that a different oil can not impact how an engine sounds. Just because you have not heard it, or because you have a car that is not reactive to different oils does not mean that others have not, or that other engines don't react more noticeably to other oils.
Using 5w-30 over 5w-20 does not make an engine run quieter. It's all in your your head, and my father's head too:
He told me to "DUMP" the 5w-20 out of his Civic because he claims it makes his engine run noisier. So I did dump the 5w-20 and put in more 5w-20. Then I told him I put in 5w-30.
Guess what he said? He told me the engine runs "much quieter".
Unless you have a sound laboratory, with $1,000,000 insturments for testing, I will not believe your unscientific claims. I would expect such claims from a high school drop out living in a trailer park, but no one educated.
I have run 0w-20, 5w-20, 0w-30, 5w-30 and 0w-40 in my 1.5L Yaris and it all sounds the same.
Do you need an acoustic lab to hear piston slap, injectors firing, a bad bearing, etc.? Why do you suppose that there are multiple suppliers who sell stethoscopes for automobile engine maintenance? Why do you suppose that the car makers themselves bother to add resonator chambers to intake systems on our cars?
Well, it's because people CAN hear the differences in how their engines are operating under one set of conditions vs another set of conditions.
Yet we are to believe that it's not possible that a different oil may affect how an engine sounds? That's the only variable that can't have any impact on how an engine sounds to the user? Really?????
Now, of course, some people will hear what they want to, and the power of suggestion is always in play with the human mind, but none of that means that a different oil can not impact how an engine sounds. Just because you have not heard it, or because you have a car that is not reactive to different oils does not mean that others have not, or that other engines don't react more noticeably to other oils.
Originally Posted By: milwaukee
Ok I will. Thanks for your blessing.
It is called the real world not "imaginary I want it to be so....so it must be" world.
Let me guess....you are a thicker is better type of person?
Ooops, you guessed wrong. I'm a "use the oil that produces the best results" person. My Camry Hybrid manual specs the 20 wt oils, but has a caveat that heavier oils may be more suitable if the car is driven at high speeds or under extreme loads. It ran beautifully with PP 0w-20, but I'm trying a fill of GC to see if the UOA results end up being different. I'll be going with whichever one gives the best UOA, and almost certainly the 20s in the winter, irrespective.
Ok I will. Thanks for your blessing.
It is called the real world not "imaginary I want it to be so....so it must be" world.
Let me guess....you are a thicker is better type of person?
Ooops, you guessed wrong. I'm a "use the oil that produces the best results" person. My Camry Hybrid manual specs the 20 wt oils, but has a caveat that heavier oils may be more suitable if the car is driven at high speeds or under extreme loads. It ran beautifully with PP 0w-20, but I'm trying a fill of GC to see if the UOA results end up being different. I'll be going with whichever one gives the best UOA, and almost certainly the 20s in the winter, irrespective.
Originally Posted By: milwaukee
. . .
You guys are dealing in subjective feelings not facts. The difference is so small between 5-20 and 5-30 that any difference you can hear between those weights in the same brand is non existant.
. . .
I'm sorry, but it is you who is being un-factual. First, you overlook that 5w-20 and 5w-30 are not set points, but instead, represent broad ranges of viscosities. If you have a 20 wt that's very thick for the grade, and a 30 that's very thin, well, maybe on viscosity alone, you're right. Two oils, one testing at 9.2 cSt, and the next testing at 9.5 cSt would be a 20 and a 30 respectively, and on that basis, would be virtually indistinguishable (though they might be very different when considering the base oils used and add pack). By contrast, another two oils might test at 5.6 cSt and 12.5 cSt respectively, and guess what -- they'd also be a 20 and a 30 respectively.
OK, you can't hear a difference in your Yaris -- that's fine. But don't generalize your experience to everyone else. Believe it or not, you're not the center of the universe. The most dramatic difference I've seen was in my 2003.5 Camry V-6. In 04, I switched that car from M1 5w-30 (then being made at around 9.5 cSt) and GC (then, as now, a 12.1 cSt oil). That car had a metallic, "thrashy" sound on the M1 that immediately and totally went away with the heavier GC. No ding at all on M1 (I got great UOA results with the M1), but as far as engine sound was concerned, the GC was in a different league.
. . .
You guys are dealing in subjective feelings not facts. The difference is so small between 5-20 and 5-30 that any difference you can hear between those weights in the same brand is non existant.
. . .
I'm sorry, but it is you who is being un-factual. First, you overlook that 5w-20 and 5w-30 are not set points, but instead, represent broad ranges of viscosities. If you have a 20 wt that's very thick for the grade, and a 30 that's very thin, well, maybe on viscosity alone, you're right. Two oils, one testing at 9.2 cSt, and the next testing at 9.5 cSt would be a 20 and a 30 respectively, and on that basis, would be virtually indistinguishable (though they might be very different when considering the base oils used and add pack). By contrast, another two oils might test at 5.6 cSt and 12.5 cSt respectively, and guess what -- they'd also be a 20 and a 30 respectively.
OK, you can't hear a difference in your Yaris -- that's fine. But don't generalize your experience to everyone else. Believe it or not, you're not the center of the universe. The most dramatic difference I've seen was in my 2003.5 Camry V-6. In 04, I switched that car from M1 5w-30 (then being made at around 9.5 cSt) and GC (then, as now, a 12.1 cSt oil). That car had a metallic, "thrashy" sound on the M1 that immediately and totally went away with the heavier GC. No ding at all on M1 (I got great UOA results with the M1), but as far as engine sound was concerned, the GC was in a different league.
People notice just as much difference in sound going from one BRAND of oil to another, so do not attribute the smoothness and quietness of your engine to the THICKNESS of the oil alone.
Originally Posted By: milwaukee
Ok I will. Thanks for your blessing.
It is called the real world not "imaginary I want it to be so....so it must be" world.
Let me guess....you are a thicker is better type of person?
Just a guess but you don't get laid much, do you?
Ok I will. Thanks for your blessing.
It is called the real world not "imaginary I want it to be so....so it must be" world.
Let me guess....you are a thicker is better type of person?
Just a guess but you don't get laid much, do you?
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Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Originally Posted By: milwaukee
Ok I will. Thanks for your blessing.
It is called the real world not "imaginary I want it to be so....so it must be" world.
Let me guess....you are a thicker is better type of person?
Just a guess but you don't get laid much, do you?
ROFLCOPTER!!!!
I literally just LOL'd bud! Thank you
Originally Posted By: milwaukee
Ok I will. Thanks for your blessing.
It is called the real world not "imaginary I want it to be so....so it must be" world.
Let me guess....you are a thicker is better type of person?
Just a guess but you don't get laid much, do you?
ROFLCOPTER!!!!
I literally just LOL'd bud! Thank you
LOL. Ya'lls arguing is entertaining. Ridiculous...
A good "synthetic" 5w30 is what I would suggest, most Ford engines are designed for it. For example Ford went to 5w20 for fuel economy reasons. They used to recommend 5w30 for the same engine, however due to economy ratings they switched to 5w20. 5w30 will NOT void your warranty or affect it in any way.
Some dealers will even fill your car with 5w30 if they service it, despite that it says 5w20 on the cap.
Many are tricked into using 5w20 blend because they are told anything heavier will ruin their warranty.
I find people all too often threaten warranty concerns if you run 5w30, and that is just not so.
Let's make it simple:
If you drive somewhat conservatively and live in a moderate climate, run 5w20.
If you have a heavy foot, live in a hot climate, or drive a performance car, run 5w30.
5w30 will protect far better in hotter climates/high heat/high load/rapid acceleration type driving.
5w30 Amsoil, Redline, Castrol Syntec
I'd recommend Syntec as an off-the-shelf oil.
A good "synthetic" 5w30 is what I would suggest, most Ford engines are designed for it. For example Ford went to 5w20 for fuel economy reasons. They used to recommend 5w30 for the same engine, however due to economy ratings they switched to 5w20. 5w30 will NOT void your warranty or affect it in any way.
Some dealers will even fill your car with 5w30 if they service it, despite that it says 5w20 on the cap.
Many are tricked into using 5w20 blend because they are told anything heavier will ruin their warranty.
I find people all too often threaten warranty concerns if you run 5w30, and that is just not so.
Let's make it simple:
If you drive somewhat conservatively and live in a moderate climate, run 5w20.
If you have a heavy foot, live in a hot climate, or drive a performance car, run 5w30.
5w30 will protect far better in hotter climates/high heat/high load/rapid acceleration type driving.
5w30 Amsoil, Redline, Castrol Syntec
I'd recommend Syntec as an off-the-shelf oil.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Texasmoto
LOL. Ya'lls arguing is entertaining. Ridiculous...
A good "synthetic" 5w30 is what I would suggest, most Ford engines are designed for it. For example Ford went to 5w20 for fuel economy reasons. They used to recommend 5w30 for the same engine, however due to economy ratings they switched to 5w20. 5w30 will NOT void your warranty or affect it in any way.
Some dealers will even fill your car with 5w30 if they service it, despite that it says 5w20 on the cap.
Many are tricked into using 5w20 blend because they are told anything heavier will ruin their warranty.
I find people all too often threaten warranty concerns if you run 5w30, and that is just not so.
Let's make it simple:
If you drive somewhat conservatively and live in a moderate climate, run 5w20.
If you have a heavy foot, live in a hot climate, or drive a performance car, run 5w30.
5w30 will protect far better in hotter climates/high heat/high load/rapid acceleration type driving.
5w30 Amsoil, Redline, Castrol Syntec
I'd recommend Syntec as an off-the-shelf oil.
You seem to be insinuating that a 5w20 will not protect as well as a 5w30. Do you have anything to back that up or is CAFE just your scapegoat?
LOL. Ya'lls arguing is entertaining. Ridiculous...
A good "synthetic" 5w30 is what I would suggest, most Ford engines are designed for it. For example Ford went to 5w20 for fuel economy reasons. They used to recommend 5w30 for the same engine, however due to economy ratings they switched to 5w20. 5w30 will NOT void your warranty or affect it in any way.
Some dealers will even fill your car with 5w30 if they service it, despite that it says 5w20 on the cap.
Many are tricked into using 5w20 blend because they are told anything heavier will ruin their warranty.
I find people all too often threaten warranty concerns if you run 5w30, and that is just not so.
Let's make it simple:
If you drive somewhat conservatively and live in a moderate climate, run 5w20.
If you have a heavy foot, live in a hot climate, or drive a performance car, run 5w30.
5w30 will protect far better in hotter climates/high heat/high load/rapid acceleration type driving.
5w30 Amsoil, Redline, Castrol Syntec
I'd recommend Syntec as an off-the-shelf oil.
You seem to be insinuating that a 5w20 will not protect as well as a 5w30. Do you have anything to back that up or is CAFE just your scapegoat?
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: Texasmoto
LOL. Ya'lls arguing is entertaining. Ridiculous...
A good "synthetic" 5w30 is what I would suggest, most Ford engines are designed for it. For example Ford went to 5w20 for fuel economy reasons. They used to recommend 5w30 for the same engine, however due to economy ratings they switched to 5w20. 5w30 will NOT void your warranty or affect it in any way.
Some dealers will even fill your car with 5w30 if they service it, despite that it says 5w20 on the cap.
Many are tricked into using 5w20 blend because they are told anything heavier will ruin their warranty.
I find people all too often threaten warranty concerns if you run 5w30, and that is just not so.
Let's make it simple:
If you drive somewhat conservatively and live in a moderate climate, run 5w20.
If you have a heavy foot, live in a hot climate, or drive a performance car, run 5w30.
5w30 will protect far better in hotter climates/high heat/high load/rapid acceleration type driving.
5w30 Amsoil, Redline, Castrol Syntec
I'd recommend Syntec as an off-the-shelf oil.
You seem to be insinuating that a 5w20 will not protect as well as a 5w30. Do you have anything to back that up or is CAFE just your scapegoat?
Just common sense.
Originally Posted By: Texasmoto
LOL. Ya'lls arguing is entertaining. Ridiculous...
A good "synthetic" 5w30 is what I would suggest, most Ford engines are designed for it. For example Ford went to 5w20 for fuel economy reasons. They used to recommend 5w30 for the same engine, however due to economy ratings they switched to 5w20. 5w30 will NOT void your warranty or affect it in any way.
Some dealers will even fill your car with 5w30 if they service it, despite that it says 5w20 on the cap.
Many are tricked into using 5w20 blend because they are told anything heavier will ruin their warranty.
I find people all too often threaten warranty concerns if you run 5w30, and that is just not so.
Let's make it simple:
If you drive somewhat conservatively and live in a moderate climate, run 5w20.
If you have a heavy foot, live in a hot climate, or drive a performance car, run 5w30.
5w30 will protect far better in hotter climates/high heat/high load/rapid acceleration type driving.
5w30 Amsoil, Redline, Castrol Syntec
I'd recommend Syntec as an off-the-shelf oil.
You seem to be insinuating that a 5w20 will not protect as well as a 5w30. Do you have anything to back that up or is CAFE just your scapegoat?
Just common sense.
Originally Posted By: milwaukee
Ok I will. Thanks for your blessing.
It is called the real world not "imaginary I want it to be so....so it must be" world.
Let me guess....you are a thicker is better type of person?
I agree. This noise "difference" is way over rated, and is anecdotal at best.
People have imaginations. They think they hear louder or quieter, and then draw conclusions on mickey mouse data.
Ok I will. Thanks for your blessing.
It is called the real world not "imaginary I want it to be so....so it must be" world.
Let me guess....you are a thicker is better type of person?
I agree. This noise "difference" is way over rated, and is anecdotal at best.
People have imaginations. They think they hear louder or quieter, and then draw conclusions on mickey mouse data.
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Just common sense.
So in other words you have nothing. There is no evidence on this site (which has a vast amount of lubrication information) that suggest 5w20 cannot protect as well as a 5w30 in cars for which it was spec'd.
I thought it was this very kind of flaming that was trying to be done away with on this site?
Just common sense.
So in other words you have nothing. There is no evidence on this site (which has a vast amount of lubrication information) that suggest 5w20 cannot protect as well as a 5w30 in cars for which it was spec'd.
I thought it was this very kind of flaming that was trying to be done away with on this site?
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It's going to be hard for a high output motorhead from thinking in any other terms than thicker is better. It would be the same with higher output Euro-alloy types.
Just like it's hard for a new construction home buyer not spec'ing a bigger air handler and higher tonnage compressor even though it may produce unfavorable side effects and undue expense.
No one wants to think of 1/2" drywall as being a 1/2 hour fire wall (or whatever it is). They want concrete block.
It's all about margins. People integrate that the bigger the margin ..even if it will never be challenged at the lower/smaller/shorter level ..into "better".
There's no real logic to it. It's like saying you'll live longer if your 3000 miles from a cliff vs 20 feet. This may be true if you're someone who wildly break dances as a routine activity.
I'd recommend that our next safety evolution in automobiles be the installation of titanium roof panels to offer greater protection from stray meteorite hits on the occupants.
Just like it's hard for a new construction home buyer not spec'ing a bigger air handler and higher tonnage compressor even though it may produce unfavorable side effects and undue expense.
No one wants to think of 1/2" drywall as being a 1/2 hour fire wall (or whatever it is). They want concrete block.
It's all about margins. People integrate that the bigger the margin ..even if it will never be challenged at the lower/smaller/shorter level ..into "better".
There's no real logic to it. It's like saying you'll live longer if your 3000 miles from a cliff vs 20 feet. This may be true if you're someone who wildly break dances as a routine activity.
I'd recommend that our next safety evolution in automobiles be the installation of titanium roof panels to offer greater protection from stray meteorite hits on the occupants.
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
It's going to be hard for a high output motorhead from thinking in any other terms than thicker is better. It would be the same with higher output Euro-alloy types.
Just like it's hard for a new construction home buyer not spec'ing a bigger air handler and higher tonnage compressor even though it may produce unfavorable side effects and undue expense.
No one wants to think of 1/2" drywall as being a 1/2 hour fire wall (or whatever it is). They want concrete block.
It's all about margins. People integrate that the bigger the margin ..even if it will never be challenged at the lower/smaller/shorter level ..into "better".
There's no real logic to it. It's like saying you'll live longer if your 3000 miles from a cliff vs 20 feet. This may be true if you're someone who wildly break dances as a routine activity.
I'd recommend that our next safety evolution in automobiles be the installation of titanium roof panels to offer greater protection from stray meteorite hits on the occupants.
It's not just about margins. Look at GM's test using the 3.8L with a low HTHS oil and a higher HTHS oil. Rod and main bearing wear was cut by 5 times with the higher HTHS.
It's going to be hard for a high output motorhead from thinking in any other terms than thicker is better. It would be the same with higher output Euro-alloy types.
Just like it's hard for a new construction home buyer not spec'ing a bigger air handler and higher tonnage compressor even though it may produce unfavorable side effects and undue expense.
No one wants to think of 1/2" drywall as being a 1/2 hour fire wall (or whatever it is). They want concrete block.
It's all about margins. People integrate that the bigger the margin ..even if it will never be challenged at the lower/smaller/shorter level ..into "better".
There's no real logic to it. It's like saying you'll live longer if your 3000 miles from a cliff vs 20 feet. This may be true if you're someone who wildly break dances as a routine activity.
I'd recommend that our next safety evolution in automobiles be the installation of titanium roof panels to offer greater protection from stray meteorite hits on the occupants.
It's not just about margins. Look at GM's test using the 3.8L with a low HTHS oil and a higher HTHS oil. Rod and main bearing wear was cut by 5 times with the higher HTHS.
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Just common sense.
So in other words you have nothing. There is no evidence on this site (which has a vast amount of lubrication information) that suggest 5w20 cannot protect as well as a 5w30 in cars for which it was spec'd.
I thought it was this very kind of flaming that was trying to be done away with on this site?
Ok smart guy, show me where a 30wt DOESN'T protect better than a 20wt. Why does the burden of proof have to be on the thick oil guys....
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Just common sense.
So in other words you have nothing. There is no evidence on this site (which has a vast amount of lubrication information) that suggest 5w20 cannot protect as well as a 5w30 in cars for which it was spec'd.
I thought it was this very kind of flaming that was trying to be done away with on this site?
Ok smart guy, show me where a 30wt DOESN'T protect better than a 20wt. Why does the burden of proof have to be on the thick oil guys....
It has, this is purely entertainment now.
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Just common sense.
So in other words you have nothing. There is no evidence on this site (which has a vast amount of lubrication information) that suggest 5w20 cannot protect as well as a 5w30 in cars for which it was spec'd.
I thought it was this very kind of flaming that was trying to be done away with on this site?
Ok smart guy, show me where a 30wt DOESN'T protect better than a 20wt. Why does the burden of proof have to be on the thick oil guys....
Um, because you made the claim. Simple logic.
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Just common sense.
So in other words you have nothing. There is no evidence on this site (which has a vast amount of lubrication information) that suggest 5w20 cannot protect as well as a 5w30 in cars for which it was spec'd.
I thought it was this very kind of flaming that was trying to be done away with on this site?
Ok smart guy, show me where a 30wt DOESN'T protect better than a 20wt. Why does the burden of proof have to be on the thick oil guys....
Um, because you made the claim. Simple logic.
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