5W30 In ‘20 Corolla 1.8L ?

[Oillover]

And I know what they'll say to try to counter that, they'll say that car manufacturers only want engines to last just beyond the warranty period and nothing more, so the thinner oils are just enough to get there. That's also wrong. What manufacturer would actually want their engines to just barely make it that far? They are not likely to get repeat customers if that were to occur.

You should really preach this stuff on the late model Volvo boards (turbo/supercharged 4 poppers).
There you'll find several complaints by folks well within the warranty period, all running the spec'd 0w20 (also serviced exclusively at the dealership) with oil consumption and engine wear issues.
There's even a few just out of warranty requiring a full engine replacement despite being well below 100k miles. Their friendly dealerships/Volvo HQ has offered little to no assistance.

 

[kschachn]

Especially if the engine is short tripped in cold weather. Where the oil never gets to operating temp.

And if that’s the case then you want a higher grade to help mitigate any viscosity loss due to fuel dilution.

 

[nicholas]

And if that’s the case then you want a higher grade to help mitigate any viscosity loss due to fuel dilution.

Not every engine gets fuel dilution.
Our odyssey which is very short tripped in extreme cold with lots of idling does not get diluted.

This is not a one size fits all scenario here.

 

[kschachn]

Not every engine gets fuel dilution.
Our odyssey which is very short tripped in extreme cold with lots of idling does not get diluted.

This is not a one size fits all scenario here.

How about the whole lower viscosity oil protecting better and that higher viscosity oils warm up faster? Those were more substantive statements by both myself and others in this thread.

 

[Urshurak776]

The consensus is varied. Some who have worked for dealerships say they use whatever is the cheapest in bulk, and others have said they use only the manufacturer’s brand of oil… only way to know is to ask your dealer.

So, the local KIA dealership near us used ConocoPhilips oil (they make motorcraft oil.)

Hyundai near us uses Quaker State.

Mazda uses Mobil and Valvoline (saw drums of each out in the workshop area.)

 

[Sandstorm]

So, the local KIA dealership near us used ConocoPhilips oil (they make motorcraft oil.)

Hyundai near us uses Quaker State.

Mazda uses Mobil and Valvoline (saw drums of each out in the workshop area.)

My local Mazda dealership uses Mobil 1

 

[Urshurak776]

My local Mazda dealership uses Mobil 1

I just found it intersting that few, if any, use their own oil. Like Mazda has Mazda oil, but they don't seem to use it at the dealership. Just odd.....

Probably $$$$. They can get drums of Mobil 1 cheaper than getting their own oil distributed....

 

[Sandstorm]

I just found it intersting that few, if any, use their own oil. Like Mazda has Mazda oil, but they don't seem to use it at the dealership. Just odd.....

Probably $$$$. They can get drums of Mobil 1 cheaper than getting their own oil distributed....

Exactly, money talks, as always

 

[kschachn]

Exactly, money talks, as always

True, but when it doesn’t make a bit of difference, then well, it doesn’t make a bit of difference.

 

[gfh77665]

Lastly, I think a higher viscosity like 5w-30 is great in a 1.8L Corolla. If anything, lower viscosities are a better fit in V8's. For example, my 2017 1.6L Fiesta turns right at 3000 rpm at interstate speeds. My 2018 5.3L Silverado lopes along at the same interstate speeds about 1800 rpm. If I had to use a thicker oil, my higher revving 17 Fiesta would get it every time over the Silverado. The OP's 20 Corolla 1.8 is very similar to the Fiesta.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

My local Mazda dealership uses Mobil 1

Dang! Maybe you can bring your own oil for them to change

 

[BufordTJustice]

Lastly, I think a higher viscosity like 5w-30 is great in a 1.8L Corolla. If anything, lower viscosities are a better fit in V8's. For example, my 2017 1.6L Fiesta turns right at 3000 rpm at interstate speeds. My 2018 5.3L Silverado lopes along at the same interstate speeds about 1800 rpm. If I had to use a thicker oil, my higher revving 17 Fiesta would get it every time over the Silverado. The OP's 20 Corolla 1.8 is very similar to the Fiesta.

Good point, but I think it actually depends a lot on transmission tuning and shift logic. The Aisin 6 speed in my GX460 absolutely adores lugging the engine. Even when you're at 50% throttle in 6th gear, it will hold that gear indefinitely unless vehicle speed deteriorates.

With TGMO 0w-20, you could feel the engine start to throb (like when towing), where the texture of the engine starts to become rough....even at 1800rpm. Literally every 5w-30 (M1, Castrol Edge, Edge Ti, Penzzoil UP, etc) smoothes this regime out and the engine turns back into a turbine. And this is the mighty 1UR-FE...it's *smooth* if nothing else....it's certainly not ate-up with power. Lol.

Highway driving here in N Central Texas is vastly more serene. I wouldn't necessarily peg any "additional wear" on the TGMO. BUT, I flatly reject that the engine is not running more optimally with the 5w-30 weight, because it's readily apparent that it is.

 

[proveitwithdata]

Good point, but I think it actually depends a lot on transmission tuning and shift logic. The Aisin 6 speed in my GX460 absolutely adores lugging the engine. Even when you're at 50% throttle in 6th gear, it will hold that gear indefinitely unless vehicle speed deteriorates.

With TGMO 0w-20, you could feel the engine start to throb (like when towing), where the texture of the engine starts to become rough....even at 1800rpm. Literally every 5w-30 (M1, Castrol Edge, Edge Ti, Penzzoil UP, etc) smoothes this regime out and the engine turns back into a turbine. And this is the mighty 1UR-FE...it's *smooth* if nothing else....it's certainly not ate-up with power. Lol.

Highway driving here in N Central Texas is vastly more serene. I wouldn't necessarily peg any "additional wear" on the TGMO. BUT, I flatly reject that the engine is not running more optimally with the 5w-30 weight, because it's readily apparent that it is.

Have you used anything heavier like m1 0w40?

 

[BufordTJustice]

Have you used anything heavier like m1 0w40?

I have used Castrol 5w-30 Euro A3/B4 (HTHS of 3.5 or 3.6 IIRC). It's a BMW LL01 oil. It and the PUP 5w-30 are the smoothest by a fair margin. Hot or cold ambient.

 

[Fahrvergnügen]

I'm not saying that it would cause permanent damage, just that it's not necessary to run thicker oils in order to get long engine life. That being said, if you're running 5w30 in -20F weather instead of 0w20, you're not doing your engine any favors there.

Baloney. When I drained the 0w16 at 500 miles and put the ESP 0w30 the engine sounds soo much better. Not noisy and clattery like that 16 weight, especially at higher RPM. it actually runs proper oil pressure. 0w16 is too low

0w16
1000 rpm = 7.5 psi
2000 rpm = 13.0 psi
3000 rpm = 19.8 psi
4000 rpm = 28.5 psi
5000 rpm = 37.0 psi
6000 rpm = 43.4 psi
6400 rpm = 45.5 psi

0w30
1000 rpm = 9.6 psi
2000 rpm = 18.6 psi
3000 rpm = 27.0 psi
4000 rpm = 35.8 psi
5000 rpm = 46.5 psi
6000 rpm = 55.6 psi
6400 rpm = 57.5 psi

 

[Thermo1223]

Baloney. When I drained the 0w16 at 500 miles and put the ESP 0w30 the engine sounds soo much better. Not noisy and clattery like that 16 weight, especially at higher RPM. it actually runs proper oil pressure. 0w16 is too low

0w16
1000 rpm = 7.5 psi
2000 rpm = 13.0 psi
3000 rpm = 19.8 psi
4000 rpm = 28.5 psi
5000 rpm = 37.0 psi
6000 rpm = 43.4 psi
6400 rpm = 45.5 psi

0w30
1000 rpm = 9.6 psi
2000 rpm = 18.6 psi
3000 rpm = 27.0 psi
4000 rpm = 35.8 psi
5000 rpm = 46.5 psi
6000 rpm = 55.6 psi
6400 rpm = 57.5 psi

Based on what? This one vehicle and engine? I think that's more of the malarky you're looking for. Assumptions based on non-sensical data.

Some V8's are perfectly fine having 4 PSI at idle as that is spec. Some oils dampen noise better than others, doesn't mean the "nosier" oil is inferior.

 

[Fahrvergnügen]

Based on what? This one vehicle and engine? I think that's more of the malarky you're looking for. Assumptions based on non-sensical data.

Some V8's are perfectly fine having 4 PSI at idle as that is spec. Some oils dampen noise better than others, doesn't mean the "nosier" oil is inferior.

That info is straight from tech stream pal I was a Toyota tech. In case you don’t know what that is it’s the dealer software.

 

[Fahrvergnügen]

Exactly, money talks, as always

That’s exactly how it works

 

[cedarpangolin]

Exactly, money talks, as always

Dealerships are privately owned, franchise licensed resellers of the manufacturers vehicles. No doubt a dealership can save a lot of money by buying bulk shelf brand oil in a single or a couple common weights to slap into every car regardless of the oil cap or model.

There’s two things I take away from that…

1. Given the complacency which is known to be rampant among dealership service depts, and that vehicles serviced at dealerships their entire lives very often last long and healthy, we might consider that we overthink our oil choices a bit much at times… perhaps? Dealer uses “wrong” grade, cheap basic brand and line of product, etc and the vast majority of vehicles do fine. They aren’t putting PUP or Valvoline EP in there. You’re getting basic mobile 1 synthetic or basic Quaker state etc. Anything we use as DIY oil changers, with a better add pack than a base line oil, is going to be better for the cars we drive than what the dealerships would slap in it if we trusted them to.

2. Don’t ever let the dealership change your oil. Ever.

 

[Shucks18]

After all these years I'm still surprised that long term members here are still trying to say that thinner oils are just for CAFE reasons only and that you need thicker oils to get long engine life. That's nonsense! Have you guys not learned anything here? First of all, we've seen a trend towards thinner oils for many decades now, but yet are you seeing engines dying early? No. The key is that the thinner oils are using a different anti wear package (more moly and more boron typically) in order to make up for that lower viscosity, so they can still protect your engine just as well as the thicker oils. There are way too many people here that think they know better than the engineers that designed these engines. And I know what they'll say to try to counter that, they'll say that car manufacturers only want engines to last just beyond the warranty period and nothing more, so the thinner oils are just enough to get there. That's also wrong. What manufacturer would actually want their engines to just barely make it that far? They are not likely to get repeat customers if that were to occur. Why do you think Toyota and Honda have so many repeat customers for instance? Because their engines last, and guess what? They are the ones that have been using thinner oils a lot more than other manufacturers. And it hasn't hurt their longevity one bit.

Because Toyota and Honda are riding on their legacy from the 90s to early to mid 2000s. New age Toyota is garbage. Timing belt era Toyota is best. The Toyota 5.7 isn’t as good as the 4.7. The Toyota 3.5 v6 isnt as reliable smooth and quiet as the 3.4 and 3.0. And I know for a **** fact the new tundra twin turbo isn’t as good as the 2uzfe era timing belt engines