As for gas mileage its simply not going to happen with these big engines pushing.300 to 400 horsepower. If gas mileage is your concern you need to look at a 4 cylinder engine or better yet a hybrid. Toyota has the hybrid Sienna where you get 30s mpg with a van that can hold more than a Suburban.
5w-40 / 0w-40 Success!
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Yeah, the parts that I can access and see via borescope have that thick textured black buildup inside the valve covers. I haven’t scoped the bottom end because I’ve got a Fumoto valve in the pan and would prefer not to remove it. I can only imagine what it all looks like in general. Since using HPL, the carbon has thinned in a few of the places I can see and is starting to expose bare metal. From the state of what I’ve seen, it wouldn’t surprise me if it took 50,000 miles of HPL use to get this engine’s internals to any respectable condition.
I wanna say I used 6qt Pennz Platinum HM 5w-20 and 1qt of the EC30 cleaner. Prior to that I used a bottle of the Amsoil Engine Flush. I ran that for, and don’t quote me, 5000mi changing the filter at 2500mi.
I love minivans. Their practicality is unmatched!
Absolutely. The numbers are so disparate that I would bet on an engaged parking brake in one direction or measurement/arithmetic error.
Engaged parking brake? Please give me a little more credit than that. I’ve replaced the entire parking brake system on this vehicle to include the “made by the devil himself” center cable connection system. Took 3 of us, 4 prybars, a MAPP torch, spray lubricant, and a metric ton of my former sailor cursing skills. The parking brake system is as flawless as this flawed design can get.
I’m using the same 3 methods I’ve always used. Hand calculated MPG math at fill-up, the native MPG calculator, and my dialed in over twenty fill-ups ScanGauge3. They are all within statistical relevance of one another, with the native MPG calculator being slightly more disparate than the other two methods. This MPG improvement has held steady for just shy of 2000 miles now with the only relevant change of the vehicle as a system being the switch from 5w-20 to 5w-40. Again, I admit that I don’t understand it, but it’s panning out that way someway, somehow.
The point is that it’s not “the only relevant change”, in fact it’s not relevant at all. There are tens if not a hundred actually relevant changes in everyday driving. Check out some posts from @Tom NJ where he discusses some of the numerous and relevant variables that affect what you think is controlled driving.
Here is one post of his regarding his tracking of fuel consumption:
Perhaps I’m being misunderstood. I know that there are hundreds of variables that can have an effect. I’m simply speaking to a positive experience regarding MPG. I’m not directly attributing it to my oil change as I’ve said several times. It’s simply the only direct action I’VE taken on the vehicle.The point is that it’s not “the only relevant change”, in fact it’s not relevant at all. There are tens if not a hundred actually relevant changes in everyday driving. Check out some posts from @Tom NJ where he discusses some of the numerous and relevant variables that affect what you think is controlled driving.
Here is one post of his regarding his tracking of fuel consumption:
Let’s cut to the chase. You have claimed to move from 14.5 to 17.5 mpg, with the only variable being that the oil has changed from 5 W 20 to 5 W 40. If I have this correct, the change is not even in the right direction, and certainly off by an order of magnitude at minimum over the change that could be expected by a DECREASE in viscosity.
Perhaps I was throwing out the parking brake idea as a slight provocation, but the fact is that your claim is wrong, and a little outrageous on its face, and you would do well to look for another explanation rather than embracing the impossible.
JFC, read my posts again and read my response above yours.
@Panda87 I'm detecting an agenda in the replies to your posts. I've made a similar observation on my 2017 Lexus GX460 in going from TGMO 0w-20 to Castrol Euro 5w-30 (~3.5 HTHS), and now to Redline HP 5w-30 (~3.7 HTHS). I don't k now if it is better cylinder sealing or what, but I have seen a solid, consistent 1-1.5mpg increase in both city and highway driving. It's held for over 20k miles now (5k OCI's). I'm approaching 135k miles.
Oh, and my oil consumption dropped from about 1qt of TGMO every 5k OCI to so little consumption that its undetectable on the dipstick. Just stays at the "full" dot. My dipstick is 1.6qts from the low dot/mark to the high/full dot. Plenty of resolution to see meaningful oil consumption, IME.
I am making exactly zero claims. I am merely guessing at the driver/why. Just don't have a clue. But I'm certain of my observation. N of 1, yadda yadda. I get it.
Oh, and my oil consumption dropped from about 1qt of TGMO every 5k OCI to so little consumption that its undetectable on the dipstick. Just stays at the "full" dot. My dipstick is 1.6qts from the low dot/mark to the high/full dot. Plenty of resolution to see meaningful oil consumption, IME.
I am making exactly zero claims. I am merely guessing at the driver/why. Just don't have a clue. But I'm certain of my observation. N of 1, yadda yadda. I get it.
Regardless of the cause, an increase in MPG warrants a hearty “congrats!”. I’ve had zero consumption since switching and I’ve done a lot towing in the same conditions that made it guzzle a quart during the trip to Tampa and another quart on the way back. I don’t know what the deal is, but I’ll take it! Congrats again
No meltdown here. Pretty much any vehicle on the road (or off road) could run just fine on 15w40.
With certain climate conditions excepted that is, lol. A 15w for Repairman54’s arctic climate would have him running zero of his equipment. He’s mentioned that equipment of his has been lifted off the ground by the recoil start with heavier cold weather rated oils.
However, I run a 5w-40 in everything I own now, so I generally agree. Though my GL450 calls for it from the factory, nothing else I own does.
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