5W-30 vs. 10W-40 in Kawasaki Engine - Thoughts?

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Just purchased a Cub Cadet ZT2 60” with a Kawasaki VR730V (24 HP). They call for 10-40 to be a general use. I have a a bunch of 5-30 Pennzoil Ultra that needs used up. Think I should be good? Also, I have a bunch of Fram Ultra filters that will fit it, but are about 3/4” longer than OEM. Think I should be good?
 

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Just purchased a Cub Cadet ZT2 60” with a Kawasaki VR730V (24 HP). They call for 10-40 to be a general use. I have a a bunch of 5-30 Pennzoil Ultra that needs used up. Think I should be good? Also, I have a bunch of Fram Ultra filters that will fit it, but are about 3/4” longer than OEM. Think I should be good?

I'd use 10w40 synthetic oil and if the ultra filters fit,then I'd use them.
 
Use the viscosity they call for, especially in hot summer weather. As long as the filters fit thread and seal, it should be okay maybe add a smitch more oil because of the larger filter.
 
I would not go thinner on a new engine. First its air cooled and the engine is blocked from any air flow from the front, not that you get tons of air flow at 6 mph but at least it is some help.
 
First off, for clarification, you have the FR730V. Just a typo, but want to avoid confusion.

Hustler owner here who almost bought the EXACT same machine. You chose well! I didn't buy it because a gently used Hustler landed in my lap for $400, and I couldn't pass that up. I've serviced the FR691V and FR730V. In the manuals, it shows the temperature/viscosity arrow diagrams as SL 10W-30/10W-40. However, printed on the factory dipstick, it clearly states "10W-30" on both of them. If you call Hustler, they tell you any XW-30. If you call Kawasaki, they tell you SM/SN/SP 10W-30 is bad, and if it's not SL 10W-40 it will spontaneously combust (so it begs the question: why does Kawasaki's engine dipstick say 10W-30?). Then again, this is the same company that says "using multi-grade oils will increase oil consumption." :rolleyes:

Directly from the Kawasaki Owner's Manual for FR651V/FR691V/FR730V engines:

20210528_232728.jpg


I can assure you that the FR691V I have serviced since new has had nothing but passenger car SN full synthetic 5W-30 since the recommended 8-hour dump of the factory fill. It now has somewhere between 1,100-1,600 hard hours on it (no hour meter). It has never smoked, used any oil at all, or even once required the choke to start. It just fires up quickly (
As for the filter, Kawasaki's filter is the 49065-7007. These are expensive, tiny, and ignorant to use. These filters cross exactly to a WIX 57035, NAPA Gold 7035, or Fram PH8170. I use none of the above, and I'm one of those people who hates using alternative parts. I use the WIX 51348/NAPA Gold 1348/Fram XG3614. It has all the same specs, just increases the oil capacity slightly (a good thing), has more filter media, and is MUCH cheaper. You can also use a WIX 51516/NAPA Gold 1516/Fram XG3600 *IF* you have the clearance to get it in and out of the mower. This would also further increase the oil capacity. On the Hustlers, the 1516/3600 doesn't have enough space for my liking, so I use the 1348/3614. The bonus is it usually takes a perfect 2.5 quarts with this setup, so you can buy a 5 quart jug and be set for two oil changes. I've used the 1348 since the 8 hour dump also. Again, 1,100+ hours and still runs perfectly. Since you didn't list the Fram Ultras you have on hand, my advice is don't use them unless they are the XG3614 or XG3600 (there isn't an XG8170). Bypass valve settings, burst pressure variances, and flow rates are my reasoning for recommending only those two alternatives and not others that are "similar" or "compatible" yet very different internally.

Also, the factory air filter/cover setup tends to get a LOT of dirt and grass in it. Keep it clean. A little compressed air works wonders (gently! Don't blow contaminants through the filter. Blow out, not in). The Kawasaki air filters work best (especially the pre-filters!).

The spark plugs should be NGKs. 6578 and 7222 are identical other than the 7222 has a screw-on wire connector (inferior and pointless IMO). 6578 FTW.

And most importantly, check the oil level WITHOUT screwing on the dipstick!
 
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5w30 syn should suffice in your mower. Use the filters that you have. I ran a mowing business for years. I used 10w30 or 10w40 or 15w40 dino oil in everything. The engines (all brands) always used a bit of oil after a few days of mowing but it was not significant. This was before syn oil became popular. Your Kawi will let you know if it doesn't like that weight of oil.
 
Me personally I'd use oe filter and specified oil. Especially the machine being brand new
It really won't matter as long as the oil is full. Synthetic 5w30 will work fine. As far as using OE filters and oil when under warranty, that has never been an issue the times I've had to replace engines for a customer under warranty. They can however deny repair if it's proven that the engine was run low on oil.
 
OP, I don't know where you live but here in Florida I use straight 40W SN oil. Look at the top of the oil recommendation chart and see why I use it in our Florida heat. I never use the mower in cool weather but do use it on brutally hot days, therefore the 40W. And I find the engine uses less oil. Kawasaki engines are famous for some oil usage. And as mentioned above, check the oil level without screwing down the cap.
 
First off, for clarification, you have the FR730V. Just a typo, but want to avoid confusion.

Hustler owner here who almost bought the EXACT same machine. You chose well! I didn't buy it because a gently used Hustler landed in my lap for $400, and I couldn't pass that up. I've serviced the FR691V and FR730V. In the manuals, it shows the temperature/viscosity arrow diagrams as SL 10W-30/10W-40. However, printed on the factory dipstick, it clearly states "10W-30" on both of them. If you call Hustler, they tell you any XW-30. If you call Kawasaki, they tell you SM/SN/SP 10W-30 is bad, and if it's not SL 10W-40 it will spontaneously combust (so it begs the question: why does Kawasaki's engine dipstick say 10W-30?). Then again, this is the same company that says "using multi-grade oils will increase oil consumption." :rolleyes:

Directly from the Kawasaki Owner's Manual for FR651V/FR691V/FR730V engines:

View attachment 58552

I can assure you that the FR691V I have serviced since new has had nothing but passenger car SN full synthetic 5W-30 since the recommended 8-hour dump of the factory fill. It now has somewhere between 1,100-1,600 hard hours on it (no hour meter). It has never smoked, used any oil at all, or even once required the choke to start. It just fires up quickly (
As for the filter, Kawasaki's filter is the 49065-7007. These are expensive, tiny, and ignorant to use. These filters cross exactly to a WIX 57035, NAPA Gold 7035, or Fram PH8170. I use none of the above, and I'm one of those people who hates using alternative parts. I use the WIX 51348/NAPA Gold 1348/Fram XG3614. It has all the same specs, just increases the oil capacity slightly (a good thing), has more filter media, and is MUCH cheaper. You can also use a WIX 51516/NAPA Gold 1516/Fram XG3600 *IF* you have the clearance to get it in and out of the mower. This would also further increase the oil capacity. On the Hustlers, the 1516/3600 doesn't have enough space for my liking, so I use the 1348/3614. The bonus is it usually takes a perfect 2.5 quarts with this setup, so you can buy a 5 quart jug and be set for two oil changes. I've used the 1348 since the 8 hour dump also. Again, 1,100+ hours and still runs perfectly. Since you didn't list the Fram Ultras you have on hand, my advice is don't use them unless they are the XG3614 or XG3600 (there isn't an XG8170). Bypass valve settings, burst pressure variances, and flow rates are my reasoning for recommending only those two alternatives and not others that are "similar" or "compatible" yet very different internally.

Also, the factory air filter/cover setup tends to get a LOT of dirt and grass in it. Keep it clean. A little compressed air works wonders (gently! Don't blow contaminants through the filter. Blow out, not in). The Kawasaki air filters work best (especially the pre-filters!).

The spark plugs should be NGKs. 6578 and 7222 are identical other than the 7222 has a screw-on wire connector (inferior and pointless IMO). 6578 FTW.

And most importantly, check the oil level WITHOUT screwing on the dipstick!
I believe when it is talking about consumpiton with multigrade oils, it is refering to conventianal oils. Since, it does not say you have to use a synthetic oil.
 
OP, I don't know where you live but here in Florida I use straight 40W SN oil. Look at the top of the oil recommendation chart and see why I use it in our Florida heat. I never use the mower in cool weather but do use it on brutally hot days, therefore the 40W. And I find the engine uses less oil. Kawasaki engines are famous for some oil usage. And as mentioned above, check the oil level without screwing down the cap.
I respect your opinion but Florida is not as hot as Texas is.( I’ve lived there in the past.). What you’re thinking of is humidity ( and Houston has plenty of that as well). Florida hardly ever hits 100 F. Texas hits it a lot. ;)
 
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I use Mobil 1 15W50 in mine ( FX850 31 Hp ) . When I mow air temperature is 85F +. Kawasaki recommends 10W40, 20W50, or 15W50 for
temps above 90F. You will have to determine what viscosity to use based on your air temp. Kawa does not recommend a 5W30 . FYI you
can use Mobil 1 15W50 to 0F and 20W50 to 32F.
 
It really won't matter as long as the oil is full. Synthetic 5w30 will work fine. As far as using OE filters and oil when under warranty, that has never been an issue the times I've had to replace engines for a customer under warranty. They can however deny repair if it's proven that the engine was run low on oil.
Following the owners manual never hurt 👍
 
I don’t think Kawasaki really knows which grade of oil they want their customers to use.
@OilMagnate has one official recommendation and I have another. Both printings go back to API SL rating days. Here’s the official Kawasaki recommendation that I found. I did a screenshot of page 14 of the FR651V, FR691V and FR730V Engine Owners User Manual. I Which one came first?
 

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Kawasaki engines are famous for some oil usage.
I completely disagree with this.

I don’t think Kawasaki really knows which grade of oil they want their customers to use.
10000000% agreed. Especially considering SM or newer will blow it up if you ask them.

@OilMagnate has one official recommendation and I have another. Both printings go back to API SL rating days. Here’s the official Kawasaki recommendation that I found. I did a screenshot of page 14 of the FR651V, FR691V and FR730V Engine Owners User Manual. I Which one came first?
We can find out! Mine was included with the 2015 Hustler Raptor SD. The copyright date is 2008 FWIW. This is also the current downloadable PDF from KawasakiEnginesUSA.com. What is your manual from and what dates can you identify?

20210529_114435.webp
 
OP, I don't know where you live but here in Florida I use straight 40W SN oil. Look at the top of the oil recommendation chart and see why I use it in our Florida heat. I never use the mower in cool weather but do use it on brutally hot days, therefore the 40W. And I find the engine uses less oil. Kawasaki engines are famous for some oil usage. And as mentioned above, check the oil level without screwing down the cap.
+1 many other Lawn site forums guys talk about kaw engines sucking down oil.
 
I have a FS600V. I've used 5w-30 synthetic and 10w-40 syn blend without any issues. I wouldn't hesitate to use your stash.

Here is the FS600V oil recommendation:
Oil_rec.webp
 
I completely disagree with this.


10000000% agreed. Especially considering SM or newer will blow it up if you ask them.


We can find out! Mine was included with the 2015 Hustler Raptor SD. The copyright date is 2008 FWIW. This is also the current downloadable PDF from KawasakiEnginesUSA.com. What is your manual from and what dates can you identify?

View attachment 58594
I pulled the information from the Kawasaki Engines website. It has a 2016 print date.
 

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