5W-30 instead of 10W-30

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What are your thoughts on me switching from 10W-30 Synthetic Havaoline and/or Mobil 1

To the same brands but 5W-30 in my small engines including:

Honda EU2000i
Honda EU2200i

And

Yamaha EF2200iS

The reason I am asking is that I have less than a quart of 10W-30, but because I no longer have a vehicle that takes 5W-30, I am left with about 5 quarts of Havoline Synthetic SN+ and another 5 quarts of Mobil 1 Synthetic SP

Any good reason 10W-30 would be preferred? Heck, when I was a kid the specs were SAE 30 for small engines…

I mean 5W-30 is still a 30 weight oil right only a bit thinner than 10W-30 when vey cold, right? Or is it thinner when hot too?

I have read that oil can sheer down in viscosity… is that anything to worry about? I change it every 25 hours on average.

OR should I put the 5W-30 in my Mazda CX-5 that calls for 0W-20?
 
i use 10w30 or 15w40 to keep the spread narrower, but if you're changing at 25 hours then it wouldn't really matter at all. 25 hours is barely anything for a full synthtic motor oil
 
There is no difference in wear between the two. Use the 5w-30 you have on hand & then use whichever grade, between the two, you want after it's gone.
I agree on the discernable wear between fs 5w-30 and a 10w from the same brand and lineup when used a suitable climates but someone's gonna comment about how there's some microscopic wear difference in a lab setting which is true but not something one would ever be able to tell.
 
Multigrade is a big compromise in AC ODPE. You should look at HTHS - not winter grade. Also a GF6A resource conserving will be less beefy than a Multifleet "HD"

My big Generac would knock when fully hot on a 5w even weak API GF510W30. Went to a VR Racing Blue 10w30 FS with an ounce of Liqui Moly MoS2** for a boundary boost. VR worked Outstanding. Hard to find.

Your little buzz bomb portables likely don't care - just like a push mower doesn't care.
______________________________
** Don't run a microfine powdered Moly ink in a engine with a full flow oil filter
 
Multigrade is a big compromise in AC ODPE. You should look at HTHS - not winter grade. Also a GF6A resource conserving will be less beefy than a Multifleet "HD"

My big Generac would knock when fully hot on a 5w even weak API GF510W30. Went to a VR Racing Blue 10w30 FS with an ounce of Liqui Moly MoS2** for a boundary boost. VR worked Outstanding. Hard to find.

Your little buzz bomb portables likely don't care - just like a push mower doesn't care.
______________________________
** Don't run a microfine powdered Moly ink in a engine with a full flow oil filter
Is there any engine you haven’t managed to achieve rod knock in? 🤣 j/k Ken…
 
I mean 5W-30 is still a 30 weight oil right only a bit thinner than 10W-30 when vey cold, right? Or is it thinner when hot too?
No. A 5w-30 is a 5 grade oil. Let that percolate. It has viscosity improvers to make it act, as a 30, when hot. It's like peanut butter and roofing nails compared to SAE 30w. SAE 30w has a much higher film strength.

Read your mower engine manual on oil. If it says run olive oil then that's what you use.

Then there's the old saying any oil is better than no oil.
 
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