'56 Chev Bel Air, 265 4bbl

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A friend has a 1956 Chevrolet Bel Air that he is restoring with a 265 cu. in. (8 cyl) 4bbl engine with an automatic transmission; the power pack option. The engine is stock and he just had a valve job done. He already has SAE 30 in it for his break-in and he had planned to use a PCMO 5w30; I am recommending that he use Rotella 10w30. He has no desire to use a synthetic oil. He is not going to race or modify it- it's just a cruising car. What oil would you recommend?
 
Originally Posted By: ProfPS
A friend has a 1956 Chevrolet Bel Air that he is restoring with a 256 cu. in. 4bbl engine with an automatic transmission; the power pack option. The engine is stock and he just had a valve job done. He already has SAE 30 in it for his break-in and he had planned to use a PCMO 5w30; I am recommending that he use Rotella 10w30. He has no desire to use a synthetic oil. He is not going to race or modify it- it's just a cruising car. What oil would you recommend?


A 256,what is that? A six Cylinder?
 
The first displacement of the Chevrolet OHV V-8. Was only that size for a couple of years, then it became the 283 V-8....

Rotella 10w30 would be a good oil for it, or even a straight 30 HDEO like Delo 30-wt. If the engine is 'loose' or burns oil, he might want to go with a 15w40.
 
...and yeah, I should have know it was a '265'.

I had a feeling that '256' no. wasn't right, but couldn't remember the right one....

Either way, original 265-powered Chevy's are rare!
 
I see no reason not to use a modern multigrade. When did they go 12 volt systems? No sense asking old stuff to crank a cold, thick oil. If past wear is a problem, you could go a 5W-40 or something.
 
I would say stick with your Shell Rotella oil recommendation and change both the oil and filter often. (Those old SBCs used road draft tubes to siphon blow-by out of the crankcase. Ugh!)
 
Depends on the tolerances the machinist set when grinding the crank and sizing the rods. Sounds like purely stock GM build to me. I would make sure to use a good break in oil for the hydralic flat and for the first 3,000 miles but there after, I would be fine with any 10w30 (summer) or 5w30 (winter).

My almost stock 283 with two thousandths clearance on the mains and 2.5 on the rods. It knocks down 10-15psi hot idle & 45psi hot, open throttle. Stock pressure & flow oil pump.

Cold, it's around 55psi.

I currently use Quaker State 10w30 SM (or virtually any 10/30 SM oil on sale). The cam is slightly larger than stock but nothing crazy so the valve spring pressures fail to dictate a high z & p oil.

I would get the build sheet from the machinist and post tolerances here for others to chime in on oil weight.
 
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Rotella T 10-30 is the cat's whiskers for those older engines, assuming any type of reasonable build. Good z/p, stout add pack - all the good stuff a growing boy needs..
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Originally Posted By: RWEST
Rotella T 10-30 is the cat's whiskers for those older engines, assuming any type of reasonable build. Good z/p, stout add pack - all the good stuff a growing boy needs..
thumbsup2.gif



Hi,
and the boy was typically fed that formula (at least viscosity) when he was born
 
Since it's a cruising car,(and I suspect it will be driven only occasionally) a HDEO with the superior additive pack would probably be best. Keeps the corrosion away while it's garaged.
 
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