Guy evaluates 55 motorcycle chain lubes. It’s a UK Based show, so many tested are not readily available in US. Not sure the methods used are totally valid. But, gear oil and Maxima Chain Wax show to be good options.
55 Chain Lubes Tested
- Thread starter BBDartCA
- Start date
Many years ago Dirt bike magazine tested chain oils and regular motor oil scored the best. I used to take my chain off(once in a while) and put it in a container with used oil and then hang it up to drip off back into the container(old jerry can) Otherwise I used whatever chain lube was on sale or an old pump style oil can and wiping off with a rag. A bit messy but ok with dirt bikes, I prefer shaft drive for the street.
Still have a can of Maxima chain wax from way back when I had my Ninja. Now I just use it on my mountain bike. Loved how it didn't sling all over everything on the Ninja, and didn't seem to attract a lot of dirt.
I've used Maxima Chain Wax for 20+ years. I've also lately tried DuPont Chain Saver which works Ok too, but doesn't seem to last as long as Maxima. DuPont chain saver is significantly less in cost than the Maxima. I think I've even seen it at Walmart.
Hermann
Site Donor 2023
That a lot of Chain Lube. IME it is either gear oil if you're not riding right away. Wax based if you want to ride in 30 min or so.
I recommend Motul Chain Paste... squeeze the white grease from the
tube and load the brush... Hold the loaded brush to the inside of the
chain rollers to transfer the white grease... After a couple of spins
of the chain it's lubed like from the Factory... Motul Chain Paste
clings with no flings...
tube and load the brush... Hold the loaded brush to the inside of the
chain rollers to transfer the white grease... After a couple of spins
of the chain it's lubed like from the Factory... Motul Chain Paste
clings with no flings...
I've had good service from AMSOIL's Chain Lube.
Couple of my bikes have Reservoirs for motor oil with a pump to lube the chain. I’ve used gear oil and motor oil but prefer Maxima.Wax. Clean, does not attract dirt much and seems to lube fine.
I use Liquid Wrench Chain and Cable Lube.
Bought it on a whim. It seems to be doing a great job. 10K miles on the chain so far without any rust, kinks or tight spots. I never clean the chain, just spray some on every 300-500 miles and it's been fine. At $5 a can, one can a year, the value is great.
Bought it on a whim. It seems to be doing a great job. 10K miles on the chain so far without any rust, kinks or tight spots. I never clean the chain, just spray some on every 300-500 miles and it's been fine. At $5 a can, one can a year, the value is great.
With the above liquid wrench lube, the "penetrant" part of the label would be of potential concern for me personally with an X-ring or o-ring chain.
Below... Both these lubes are fantastic. Under $10 a can. Moly version has no fling/mess, period. "White Graphite" version is so low on fling/mess it may as well be no fling. Over 33,000 miles on an EK ZVX2 530 chain. Moly version gets the most use, white graphite goes a bit longer but has as hazy look to it that the moly does not. Pick your poison, either is great. Because of the low mess with either, "cleaning" the chain is easy with a wipe down.
I've had good success with Motul Chain Paste as well, more difficult to keep from getting "too much" on the chain and then it will fling, but lasts a good while between lubes.
Below... Both these lubes are fantastic. Under $10 a can. Moly version has no fling/mess, period. "White Graphite" version is so low on fling/mess it may as well be no fling. Over 33,000 miles on an EK ZVX2 530 chain. Moly version gets the most use, white graphite goes a bit longer but has as hazy look to it that the moly does not. Pick your poison, either is great. Because of the low mess with either, "cleaning" the chain is easy with a wipe down.
I've had good success with Motul Chain Paste as well, more difficult to keep from getting "too much" on the chain and then it will fling, but lasts a good while between lubes.
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Regular gear oil, thinly brushed on is my favorite method. It leaves a lot less mess than many claim and is easily wiped just with a rag. No solvents or cleaners needed.
Fresh application. I would oftentimes ride right afterwards with very minimal sling.
Here is the sprocket area after one season of riding.
And here it is after a quick wipe with a rag.
Fresh application. I would oftentimes ride right afterwards with very minimal sling.
Here is the sprocket area after one season of riding.
And here it is after a quick wipe with a rag.
All those lubes look nice. the truck is whether the grease gets inside and lubes the pins in each link. I remember many, many years ago some bikes were made with an enclosed chain cover that had a reservoir that could be filled that the chain would go through. Exposed chains take dirt and grind it against the sprockets causing wear. I haven't owned a bike in a long time but still, look up what new bikes are being sold. Man talk about expensive!
Most chain driven street bikes have an X/O-ring chain. Don't want/need the external lube getting inside the pins and rollers. The X/O-rings keep the factory grease/lube from leaking OUT.
I've tried every chain lube I could find over the years. The top one is still my favorite.
It looks like you've got a link that's binding, just coming off the countershaft sprocket. About time for a new chain.
The center rollers are not sealed. Lube needs to wick in from the sides of the rollers and get underneath them.
I'm thinking of when I install a new chain, I put white grease on the pins that go into the roller and the o/x-rings seal that in. Of course, all the pins/rollers have grease/lube sealed inside as well from the factory. That's what I am referring to when I say we don't want lube coming from outside to displace that.
Chain "rollers" are the sections of the chain that makes contact with the sprocket teeth - they have the ability to "roll" in place. They are not sealed by any means. Chain lube needs to wick down through the gaps at the ends of the rollers to get inside them. The rollers are really the main area to lubricate on a sealed O or X ring chain.
What we are lubing are external roller and between the roller and the
sprockets (red area in my drawing)... we are not lubing the X rings
nor behind the X rings so any oil applied in that effort is a waste
and will only fling off...
sprockets (red area in my drawing)... we are not lubing the X rings
nor behind the X rings so any oil applied in that effort is a waste
and will only fling off...
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