$500 on oil?

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I'm generalizing about both the quality and quantity of overkill oil service, like a lot of us practice. Now, I realize we buy on sale and yada, yada...but a lot more people out there just opt for "the best" (M1) every 3k. We all know them.

I'm pricing this example on a realistic and common practice...myself! I like changing oil but waiting an extra month and not making up a false "need" for "the best" synth, basicly you can end up with a fair amount of money saved, rather than the spontaneous "splurge" of that extra money every time. I'm doing $4 oil changes or less on the CRV.
 
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
I'm doing $4 oil changes or less on the CRV.


WAIT A SECOND! How are you beating me?!
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http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...469#Post1185469
 
John that is Toyota quality ! Not syn oil.I though am not sure about the newest Toys I have owned 4 Toys and the 2006 seens more G.M than Toyota.
 
pt 1...that was funny about keeping the car running in 96 degree heat with ac on for a hour...with a godawful field hockey game...yeah i guess you are a candidate for synthetic
 
I look at real factors when wondering about things .For a better idea on engine life I look at over the road trucks they have the ideal life to judge what product gives long life and what doesn't .They get over a million miles on dino oil . If there was an advantage the majority of fleet owners "they got keeping the costs of running the trucks down to a science" would use syn oil . As there would be real $$$ savings and those engines are expensive to buy and run and maintain.
 
Wonder how long the average gas engine oil pump would last pushing oil thru 4 filters. The new topic would be OCI's (PCI) for oil pumps.
 
This is a really excellent thread. It gets to the heart of the debate (any debate) about oil. Is the difference worth it, if there even is one in the first place?

To me there are so many smaller factors that cloud the picture that when you consider them along with the big ones, the $ difference between conventional and synthetic disappears into uncertainty:

If you do fewer OCIs with synthetic, you should really factor in the value of your saved time. If you enjoy that time spent working on the car, turn that upside down.

How about the difference in resale value if you use synthetics. Whether or not they're better, it will give most buyers an impression of better maintenance and more remaining life.

If you intend to keep your car "forever," what are the odds that it will actually happen? Will it rust away before you get the chance? Will your wife/kid/self total it with a minor mishap when its value has become so low its not worth fixing? Will you change your mind and buy something else (most likely IMO)?

And what are the odds that, as some on the board believe (like me), conventionals are equal to or even better than synthetics for wear? One should discount one's calculations of expected benefit for the possibility that that is the case.

And how about the difference in fuel economy between oils... maybe 1% or so.

For me, with my E30 325i, a "forever" car, over say 200k miles, conventional on sale/cheap filter every 6k: $367

Or 200k miles, Redline every 12k plus "best" filter (but for my car it's the same filter!): $749

The difference is $382.

If I value my "free" time at $20 an hour the extra 17 oil changes with dino work out to $340, making it a wash. At $40 an hour the conventional would become much more expensive to use than the synthetic.

Or, if I decide to sell the car, maybe I could get a few hundred more for it if the fact that I used Redline catches somebody's eye.

Or the expense could be completely wasted if something happens to the car.

Then again, consider this for perspective: at 30mpg and $4/gallon I will spend $27,000 (!!!) on just fuel for it over those 200k miles. What's $382 compared to that!?
 
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
Next year starts the $.01c Pennzoil Semi-Syn and freebate Puralators.


Have you gotten any of the .01 gallons before? There were times I could have done one penny changes.
 
I drive 20-25k a year, so my 3 month changes come to about 6000 miles. Dino could easly do it, and I would buy dino if I did not have a huge stash of synth oil that is already getting dated. (at least it's Mobil 1 0w-30!)

Another factor is the value of the vehicle. Owing $16k on my car still, do I economize and save money with dino or splurge to "protect" my investment with synth? There are some counter-intuitive issues going on here. One could argue that the old beater is paid-off, so the extra $10 for synth is meaningless as far as cost of operation.

It's a tough question, but for sure many guys are way over-servicing, like those 3k Mobil 1 guys. One thing is for sure, when I am pouring dino oil in my car, I don't feel like quality is an issue, like I am posioning it! I don't think synth itself helps resale, it's just more indicative of a good owner. Oil level running low is a bigger problem for me.

Anyway, is $10 or $100 or $500 really a big difference over the life of a car? Not really, but synth is just not necessary at all, even with the A/C on! Face it guys, it's a LUXURY.
 
Perhaps the type of Synthetic oil needs to be specified. There is a serious price difference between Amsoil/Redline and Syntec/Pennz Plat. The vehicle and driving style proves factor also. With the history of my particular engine, using a GRPIII with abbreviated change intervals may not be considered overkill. Using the higher priced GRPIV/GRPV oils in the same manner would be foolish and wasteful. The concern I have is just how far to push a boutique oil in a known sludger while still creating the best protection against wear. The company vehicle I drive is a Scion XB leased for three years. It is remarkably easy on oil and will be returned very soon. Dino every 5K is the smartest schedule for that vehicle. My car must last another 95K for a total of 155K before I am able to drive minus payments. This car will be passed on to my daughter if it is still running but however will not see 25K miles per year or more at that time. Once paid off, 3 to 4K on dino will most likely be my new regimen.
 
Well, if you get 1% better economy with a syn,that's $320 saved over 200k. So pay your money and take your choice,boys.
 
Don't forget that to get that 1% you probably need to change not just the type but the grade of the oil, since modern friction-modified SM conventionals are already low-friction.

How many people do that?
 
Not changing from 5-20 grade. Lower apparent friction has to show up in greater mpg. I'm taking the shot!
 
Sorry. I was responding to Junkies post. Like you,I "trust" the syn to possibly go a little longer under duress than a conv,etc.,etc.,etc. Syn probably pays for itself w/incrementally better mpg. Doesn't stop me from getting a free dealer fill of conv. from time to time.
 
Originally Posted By: dailydriver
Besides, it depends on which synthetic you use and just how much you pay for it.

PennzPlat on Pep Boyz sale/rebate is sometimes actually cheaper than a lot (most??) of the regularly priced dinos out there, and not much more than the sale/bargain dinos (yes, with the exception of the 'once in a blue moon'
Chevron/Havoline/etc. $.49/qt. blowouts).

Even GC is not that bad at ~ $4.00/qt. including a decent filter on the Peppies sale/rebate.

Like others have said, most people would NOT have to change these two oils more than twice a year, IF that.
Even if I got syn oil for free I would not waste it and change it out too soon it is a waste.
 
Originally Posted By: Steve S
I haven't seen any real proof that syn vs dino will make any difference in engine life.

That's the way I'm leaning, too. As one poster mentioned, if synthetic motor oils offered better protection against wear in daily driving conditions, wouldn't they be advertising that?
 
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