5 HP Tecumseh Snow King

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steve20

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woring on a neighbor's snowblower. Gas has been sitting in the carb for at least 2 years.
Removal of the carb bowl showed a green soup-can't be mold can it?
Removed the main jet and soaked carb in 1 gallon of GUNK brand carb cleaner overnight.
Reassembeled as it runs great-------------however, it only runs great on full choke. Try and remove a little choke and it dies.
I'm going to soak it a gain, any suggestions?
steve
 
Originally Posted By: steve20
..Removal of the carb bowl showed a green soup-can't be mold can it?


From what I've seen, that is the tell-tale sign of old gas in the carb. The problem is definitely made worse with ethanol blend fuels. This gas will do fine for very long periods in SEALED fuel storage containers. Not so long in an open to atmosphere snowblower fuel system. Get all that cleaned out of there, fresh gas in and it will be good to go.

Joel
 
If the jet is totally plugged, sometines a #61 to #80 drill bit in a pin vise will be required to clean it out. (The carburetor parts dip they sell today are almost worthless)
 
This is an interesting thread, I have a Honda Snowblower that is giving me the same problems, in the run position the snowblower works fine, but as soon as I engage the auger it has less power, so I have to push the throttle up to near the choke, I ran some Redline SI in the gas and then added some MMO to the gas tank.

I still need to check the sediment cup, maybe my jet is partially plugged.

The only other thought is maybe I need to adjust the cable.
 
I doubt that it is the main jet that is plugged. The main is only used at higher RPM's, plus it is bigger. My guess it that that the pilot jet that is used for lower RPMs is blocked. The choke on will bypass that circuit, so that is why it runs on choke.

I have seen the green stuff from old gas sitting. It almost looks like algae. Probably from ethanol sucking up water into the gas.
 
Tecumsehs don't use the main jet except when under load/heavy load.
There is a small,part throtle jet that the engine uses most of the time. Maybe an idle jet too.
Local mechanic when through my carb for a small fee.
Runs great now.
Not sure what brand of carb they used but I'm guessing either tilotson or Walbro.
 
Clean the bowl nut thoroughly. The passage straight down through the middle of the nut, the large holes at the base of the nut and the pin hole located just above the threads. Will most likely solve your problem.

If that doesn't work, look on the side of the carb. See that round, blank spot where a screw used to be? It's a plastic cover hiding a screw. Take the bowl off, remove the little piece of plastic. Squirt carb cleaner through the screw hole until it comes out of the bottom of the carb. Put a stripped bread wrapper wire through the tip of the screw to ensure it's clear.
 
Last edited:
I just rebuilt mine, cold starts are great and it runs fantastic. My only issue now is I'm having a little difficulty starting the engine when it's warmed up. I have to fool around with it when I'm in the mood. Any suggestions? Thanks!
 
Needing the choke to run right means it's too lean. This can occur because gum makes the tubes smaller. Clean what you can with the spray and drills but eventually no more can be removed and it still doesn't run right.

Add fuel cleaner to the gas and run it to get it distributed through the system then let it sit. The cleaner will eat away the gum over a period of a few weeks. To see that it's working drop the bowl and observe the color of the fuel as it comes out. The fuel sitting in the areas with gum will be much more yellow than the fuel that follows. Continued use of fuel additives will keep the gum on the run.

With good fuel additives I've been able to make all my small engines work so well that no brand starts or runs worse than any other. Briggs or Tecumseh, 2 cycle or 4, all the same to me.
 
Originally Posted By: severach
Needing the choke to run right means it's too lean. This can occur because gum makes the tubes smaller. Clean what you can with the spray and drills but eventually no more can be removed and it still doesn't run right.

Add fuel cleaner to the gas and run it to get it distributed through the system then let it sit. The cleaner will eat away the gum over a period of a few weeks. To see that it's working drop the bowl and observe the color of the fuel as it comes out. The fuel sitting in the areas with gum will be much more yellow than the fuel that follows. Continued use of fuel additives will keep the gum on the run.

With good fuel additives I've been able to make all my small engines work so well that no brand starts or runs worse than any other. Briggs or Tecumseh, 2 cycle or 4, all the same to me.

Read the entire thread. I was responding to demarpaint's hot start issue....]
 
Originally Posted By: tmorris1
Originally Posted By: severach
Needing the choke to run right means it's too lean. This can occur because gum makes the tubes smaller. Clean what you can with the spray and drills but eventually no more can be removed and it still doesn't run right.

Add fuel cleaner to the gas and run it to get it distributed through the system then let it sit. The cleaner will eat away the gum over a period of a few weeks. To see that it's working drop the bowl and observe the color of the fuel as it comes out. The fuel sitting in the areas with gum will be much more yellow than the fuel that follows. Continued use of fuel additives will keep the gum on the run.

With good fuel additives I've been able to make all my small engines work so well that no brand starts or runs worse than any other. Briggs or Tecumseh, 2 cycle or 4, all the same to me.

Read the entire thread. I was responding to demarpaint's hot start issue....]


Thanks that was what I figured. I usually fine tune it under load when its good and warmed up. Then run it into deep snow, with the auger turning and wheels spinning and tweak the main fuel adjustment at the bottom of the carb bowl.
 
My local lawn and garden shop charges $7 for a rebuild kit. Make sure to buy and just replace the main jet and low mixture adjustment screw. It is not worth drilling and cleaning once it is all green. Green is not a buildup, but rather a corrosion for dissimilar metals. If you notice the brass float will also be completely etched and pitted.

If you want the ultimate carb dip solvent, mix up in equal amounts acetone, xylene, and methyl ethyl ketone and place the pale on a cheap ultrasonic vibrator overnight. Strip all plastic from carb or it will be dissolved. This worked well for me. The new floats are plastic and are much better but do not have the same boyancy as the brass ones. You can still find the brass floats but they are much more difficult to obtain.
 
Originally Posted By: tmorris1
Read the entire thread. I was responding to demarpaint's hot start issue....]

I did read the entire thread and you were one that I wasn't replying to. I thought about adjusting my text to make that more clear but I decided not to since it should be quite obvious.
 
Originally Posted By: tmorris1
Probably set too rich?


I fooled around with it today. Warmed it up, tweaked the air fuel mix, got it to run well and start well both hot and cold. Next snow I'll get it good and hot and set it up under load. I'm sure its real close, but I found setting it up under load works best.
 
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