5.7 Hemi spark plug question

Don't use Iridium. The plugs that are the primary fire plugs will burn that tiny electrode very quickly. I had put them in my Hemi and they were done in 10k. The plugs that are the secondary plugs were fine. Back to the OEM.
 
Yeah, it's my understanding they switched to an iridium in '13, but I believe they updated the coils. Sounds like at least 1 vote for Autolite Iridium's.
Same coils. Police spec models got iridium plugs while civilian models got copper. Before they switched all them at the factory people who knew and didn’t want to change them every 30k would ask dealers to put the “police package” plugs in.

The only reason I used Autolites was because they didn’t have any NGK’s in stock and I didn’t feel like waiting. The van will be getting NGK’s to replace its factory champions.
 
So other than not having to worry about changing them out at 30k would you say there were no appreciable gains with running the iridium's?
 
Don't use Iridium. The plugs that are the primary fire plugs will burn that tiny electrode very quickly. I had put them in my Hemi and they were done in 10k. The plugs that are the secondary plugs were fine. Back to the OEM.
Where did you get those plugs from. Even getting them from the parts store can be risky if you've given boxes that look like they've been opened once as the cardboard looks creased or messed with. I wonder if you got fake ones. Real iridiums definitely should last way longer than 10k.
 
An 11 is an incredibly cold plug. I don't know much about these engines but I run 7s making 24 pounds of boost.
 
Where did you get those plugs from. Even getting them from the parts store can be risky if you've given boxes that look like they've been opened once as the cardboard looks creased or messed with. I wonder if you got fake ones. Real iridiums definitely should last way longer than 10k.
Yeah, a few years back I caught someone returning some fake Denso Iridiums. They bought the real ones from us, the cheap ones off eBay or something, presumably put the real ones in their car, and tried to bring back the fake ones for a refund. But they were very obviously fake. I know they did this as I’d sold them the real ones a few days prior and remember inspecting them before the sale as well. Inspecting everything on the way in AND out is the only way to protect both the real, good customers and the company. But, most people working at a parts store don’t care, so yes, be careful.
 
I currently have 112,600 on the engine and the original plugs have been replaced once around 65k. The originals were replaced with copper NGK's.
 
I had the plugs changed in my 2021 Chrysler 300s 5.7 used copper core Ngk iridium plugs, it has 62k on it.
 
Correction platinum Ngk copper core is what I put in there were Ngk iridium plugs that were removed, have no idea if these are original or not!
 
So other than not having to worry about changing them out at 30k would you say there were no appreciable gains with running the iridium's?
Pretty much. Technically a fine tip plug, like iridium, requires less voltage to fire, which would reduce stress on the coils leading to a longer life.
 
So, I know this has been talked about in other threads, I believe my Ram has developed a steady "tick" from a broken bolt on the exhaust manifold. These Rams are notorious for that and I'm actually considering just throwing some headers on there since they'll have to come off anyways. Has anyone gone that route, and if so, what were your results and did you go shorty or full length? Lol, while they're at it I'll probably just have them change the spark plugs. My wife really wants me to just get rid of it, but it's such a darn good vehicle and it comes in handy for hauling, blizzards and I bought it new for 30k. Try buying a full-size truck nowadays in a mid trim and I bet you'll be looking at closer to 50k!
 
So, I know this has been talked about in other threads, I believe my Ram has developed a steady "tick" from a broken bolt on the exhaust manifold. These Rams are notorious for that and I'm actually considering just throwing some headers on there since they'll have to come off anyways. Has anyone gone that route, and if so, what were your results and did you go shorty or full length? Lol, while they're at it I'll probably just have them change the spark plugs. My wife really wants me to just get rid of it, but it's such a darn good vehicle and it comes in handy for hauling, blizzards and I bought it new for 30k. Try buying a full-size truck nowadays in a mid trim and I bet you'll be looking at closer to 50k!
Replace the manifold with a junkyard known good part or have yours welded by somebody who is skilled at manifold repair. Why throw money at a junk truck?
 
So I brought my truck up to an exhaust shop recommended by my brother-in-law and they quoted me $1350 for a full replacement of both exhaust manifolds (if needed). That doesn't include if they have to extract bolts if they're broken. Now, the question is, if the manifolds are fine will they try to replace them anyways just because? He listened to my truck while it was running, but it was warm and he said he couldn't "for sure" hear anything. I wish I had a lift. I could do most of this stuff myself. I also mentioned since it's due, what would he recommend for plugs, and he said they'd just go with the original copper plugs.
 
Normally they put a straight edge on the manifold to see if it is warped. The longer you run it with a broken bolt (or bolts) the more likely it will need to be replaced.
 
Yeah, he mentioned the later models ('17 or so and on) seemed to have more issues, but the earlier ones didn't really have warping and gasket issues, only broken bolts.
 
I'd run coppers so I have an excuse to change them sooner...also watch your oil consumption. Could have easily scored a bore when that dropped off.
 
So I brought my truck up to an exhaust shop recommended by my brother-in-law and they quoted me $1350 for a full replacement of both exhaust manifolds (if needed). That doesn't include if they have to extract bolts if they're broken. Now, the question is, if the manifolds are fine will they try to replace them anyways just because? He listened to my truck while it was running, but it was warm and he said he couldn't "for sure" hear anything. I wish I had a lift. I could do most of this stuff myself. I also mentioned since it's due, what would he recommend for plugs, and he said they'd just go with the original copper plugs.

Go for BD Diesel replacement manifolds. They are higher quality, better bracing and longer bolts with a sleeve, the theory is that the longer bolts can stretch a tiny bit more more before they snap.

I had mine replaced with BD Diesels, they went on easy/great and have had 0 issues with them to date (for about a year now).

I don't know what truck you have, but if you have a 4th gen I'd replace the non broken one as well as they have a tendency to break bolts and then you're paying extra to have that removed. It's cheaper to get both done while you're in there anyway. The 5th gens don't break bolts anymore all that often, instead the manifold itself cracks. Makes it cheaper to replace.

If you buy the BD Diesel manifolds, just be aware that they sell two variants, one for 4th gen 1500's and one for 5th gen 1500s and it matters as the passenger manifold is different between them.

https://us.bddiesel.com/collections/shop?tag=dodge-cummins-manifolds-09-22-hemi
 
So I brought my truck up to an exhaust shop recommended by my brother-in-law and they quoted me $1350 for a full replacement of both exhaust manifolds (if needed). That doesn't include if they have to extract bolts if they're broken. Now, the question is, if the manifolds are fine will they try to replace them anyways just because? He listened to my truck while it was running, but it was warm and he said he couldn't "for sure" hear anything. I wish I had a lift. I could do most of this stuff myself. I also mentioned since it's due, what would he recommend for plugs, and he said they'd just go with the original copper plugs.
The DS trucks don't typically break the manifold, just the bolts. On all of our work DS's, which all had this problem (snapped studs) they mechanic was able to reuse the OE manifolds and the whole job was under $700 CDN per truck.

On the DT trucks (which yours clearly isn't, given we are talking about copper plugs), the manifolds crack and have to be replaced. @The Critic and myself have both had this done on our DT's under warranty.
 
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