4L80E rebuild for 1100hp questions

That's what I get for going off memory alone......I was wrong :) Not to worry because I write down everything!!!

*You can run a '04 & up pump in a '97-'03 Case without issue.
*You can run a '97-'03 pump in a '04 & up Case IF you plug the Cooler Return hole. The '04 & up case doesn't have the boss to block the cooler return (Which was left over from '90-'96 models)

The boss in the case that was eliminated in 2004.....

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The hole that will need to be plugged if using a '97-'03 Stator/Pump Body in a 2004 & up Case. I don't have a good photo of this.....Out of a GM Service Manual......

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So what all should I replace in the pump itself if using a D3 transbrake so that it stays OEM configuration and doesn't interfere with the D3 operation? I see 5 valve/spring assemblies in the pump.

TCC valve - (the part# for the one in the oil pump, SONNAX 3499401K goes in the valve body so I don't need that one)
Reverse boost Valve / Pressure regulator valve - 4L80ELB1 ?
Converter limit valve ?
TCC enable valve ?

Also can you share any tricks on making the reverse band apply pin adjustment process go smooth?
I don't have J-21370-10 or J-38737 tools.

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Thoughts on ebay 232878094049 for banjo fittings?

Did you make your own adapter harness for 4L60E to 4L80E for use in a 99+ camaro/firebird that includes wiring for the input speed sensor?



Only difference with the 4.8/5.3/4L60E and 6.0l/4L80E is one wire on the Trans, and the Input VSS?

Check out 373073859330 on ebay.
Or I can save $40 and make my own with
item 124265635329 lol and hook VSS into pins 23/24 on red ecm.
 
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So what all should I replace in the pump itself if using a D3 transbrake so that it stays OEM configuration and doesn't interfere with the D3 operation? I see 5 valve/spring assemblies in the pump.

TCC valve - (the part# for the one in the oil pump, SONNAX 3499401K goes in the valve body so I don't need that one)
Reverse boost Valve / Pressure regulator valve - 4L80ELB1 ?
Converter limit valve ?
TCC enable valve ?

Also can you share any tricks on making the reverse band apply pin adjustment process go smooth?
I don't have J-21370-10 or J-38737 tools.
You can run a stock Boost Valve assuming it's in good shape, If Jake sends a Pressure Regulator Spring.....Run it. Do Not run ANY stock or aftermarket PR Spring with a 4L80E-LB1, With constant/fixed line pressure......The Boost Valve is of little consequence......The PR Spring decides the pressure.
I'd like to see @ 220 PSI at 1200 RPM.

All the other valves in the pump can be left alone.

Jakes instructions cover Lo/Reverse Band Clearance.
 
Thoughts on ebay 232878094049 for banjo fittings?

Did you make your own adapter harness for 4L60E to 4L80E for use in a 99+ camaro/firebird that includes wiring for the input speed sensor?



Only difference with the 4.8/5.3/4L60E and 6.0l/4L80E is one wire on the Trans, and the Input VSS?

Check out 373073859330 on ebay.
Or I can save $40 and make my own with
item 124265635329 lol and hook VSS into pins 23/24 on red ecm.
I run a Banjo fitting in the rear (Cooler Return), I think there's plenty of room on the front (Cooler Out) to run a straight Fitting & a 90 degree Hose End. I'm running a stock Quick Connect & Line on the Cooler Out. Just had to re bend the line a little.

My car was originally a 3.8L V6 car.....Has a custom engine harness that is long enough to reach the 4L80E connector, Of coarse....A factory LS1/4L60E harness isn't long enough to reach the 4L80E connector.

Before we discuss harness options.....Do you have Crimpers for those terminals??


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I'm going to be selling all my 4L80E conversion stuff (Minus the Slip Yoke & Short Shift Shaft)........Custom Shift Arm, Shift Cable Bracket, Maddog Dipstick & Tube, ISS Harness & UMI Crossmember. But it'll be 2-3 months.
 
Yes, I have multiple weather pack crimp tools for various styles of delphi type connectors. I already have the cross member, but the other conversion stuff I can use. What transmission are you switching to?

An 18” 4L60E to 4L80E adapter harness should be long enough I would think?

So use an 8680547 stock boost valve if he current one needs replaced and the spring that jake sends with it? Don’t worry about getting a sonnax then. The d3 is fixed line pressure. Got it. Should the other valves at least be taken apart and cleaned?

Nothing in the D3 online instructions about Pressure Regulator Spring and Isolator Pressure Regulator Spring so not sure what he will send.
 
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In that case.....Just buy the terminals & extend your harness (Solder & heat shrink)

The 4L80E doesn't use the TCC Enable Solenoid Circuit "T" or the 3-2 Shift Solenoid Circuit "S". Pull these two circuits out of the connector & move the TCC PWM Solenoid Circuit from cavity "U" to cavity "S".
You will need to seal the connector by injecting a small amount of RTV into the now empty cavities "T" & "U".

The easiest way to build a ISS harness is to find a used Engine Coolant Temp (ECT) Sensor pigtail off just about ANY GM vehicle, Solder & Heat Shrink some wires onto it. Run them up to the PCM, Crimp some terminals on (SAME terminals used on the trans plug!)
Locate cavities 22 & 23 of the Red PCM Connector, Pierce the silicone seal with a sharp awl, Remove the Terminal Locks, Insert the two wires into 22 & 23. Polarity doesn't matter.

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I'm going to be selling all my 4L80E conversion stuff (Minus the Slip Yoke & Short Shift Shaft)........Custom Shift Arm, Shift Cable Bracket, Maddog Dipstick & Tube, ISS Harness & UMI Crossmember. But it'll be 2-3 months.
Can you elaborate on the custom shift arm and shift cable bracket? Curious as to why these were needed for the swap or how they make things better? Is it that the stock shift arm and bracket have an undesirable geometry resulting in faster cable wear or..?
 
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Sonnax part# 38511-03K Short Manual Shift Shaft fit's '95 & up Detent Levers. You can't use a '90-'94 Short Manual Shift Shaft as it doesn't work on '95 & up Detent Levers. This conversion shaft was actually made to adapt newer units to older trucks.

*As you know....4th Gen F-Bodies take a short shift shaft, Unfortunately.....It's not clocked correctly for use with Shift Cables as it's made for the old Bell Crank shifter assemblies.

*The Shift Cable Bracket bolt holes are spaced for a 4L60E which is different spacing than a 4L80, You could just chop off the end bolt hole & rig it to pinch under a bolt (Not everyone has OCD like me ;))

*I couldn't get the shift cable adjusted correctly to line BOTH the Detents in the Transmission & the Detents in the Shifter itself, So I took 2 Manual Shift Levers & cut them apart to make 1 custom offset one with a Tig Welder.

*I fabricated the Shift Cable Bracket so it would fit 4L80E bolt spacing.

*I see most just use the Long Manual Shift Shaft & run their Shift Cable at an extreme angle (I'd be embarrassed!!)

Some picture to help.....Your welcome to make your own based on these.....

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I have a B&M shifter 80842 that I'm using currently with my 4L60E and here's the setup. I did not purchase the 75498 lever kit for the 4L60E. That part is only needed for GM trans with a PRNDL switch on the trans. I have the shift lever that came with the 4L80E. The instructions said to use spacers but B&M doesn't provide longer trans pan bolts to account for the spacers. I purchased 2 longer bolts that were M8. I used the holes circled in red to mount to the trans pan. For the shift lever, l used the hole circled in red to mount the B&M cable to. I haven't read up on the B&M instructions to see what's different for configuring it to work with a 4L80E. If purchasing your setup in a few months will improve what I'm currently working with, I'm all over that! Do you know if the B&M parts that I have are clocked correctly for 4L80E or did they just mimic the stock configuration?


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Have you installed a 2.10 gear set in your 4L80E and would you recommend it? What all is involved in performing that mod? Is it essentially a F4043 from FTI? I'm assuming you would only need this if you had traction issues. I don't see it being needed as jakes brake can leave in either 2nd or 3rd.
 
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Haven't installed a 2.10 gear set as of yet, But have installed 2.75 sets before.......But yes higher ratios are strictly for traction purposes.

I didn't know you were running a aftermarket shifter......Just modify it to work :)
 
Sounds good! Jakes super drum
on back order. Overhaul kit coming tomorrow so I can get some stuff done while I wait for the other hard parts. I didn’t know dust covers fetch $130 on ebay lol. I only paid 250 for the core with dust cover and converter and will sell the used input shaft and direct drum and converter. Will update once I make some progress!
 
Have you come across a build where more than one of these .010 shims were needed? I asked because the part number description indicates that 3 should come with the part number (34252S-3), but only one came in the package.
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Are you referring to Sonnax Part# 34500-Z??

If so.....NEVER shim at that location!! While it does decrease Rear Unit End Play, It will increase Reaction Carrier End Play & IF using a Stock Forward Hub.....Increase Front Unit End Play.

Of coarse.......1999 & up units do have a factory .041" Shim at that location, Do Not add to it!

Shim your Rear Unit End Play Under the TH350 Bearing at the rear of the case.
 
Yes, that's the same part. I'll keep the stock .041 shim in that location then and not add to it and then and shim at the rear of the case as you recommend. Originally I was trying to buy a new .041 shim and thought the generic part number was the same as OEM 24211821 but somehow that part was the only one listed for position 252 on the diagram (seen in post #51) The shim I got when ordering that part was only .010"
 
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