Follow Jake's directions to the Tee, He developed this & knows more than me about it!!!!! You can do these as they have nothing to do with the Brake.....
Drill a "Lube to Line Bypass" in the pump cover 0.055”
Enlarge the feed passage on the rear stator support with a 0.125” drill bit
Enlarge the seal drain back hole in the pump cover with a 0.250” drill bit
Enlarge the lube hole in the Overrun Clutch housing with a .125" drill bit at 45 deg angle
What about the direct clutch pressure plate? Looks burnt in the pics. Replace? The forward clutch pressure plate doesn’t look too bad.
I've seen way worse than that, The important thing is that it's flat. Sand/Media Blasting is the best way to clean those up.
What about enlarging the feed passage on the center support from .067 to 0.125 with drill bit? I had forgot to ask about that. (see image below)
Also Jake recommends to drill a bleed release hole in the direct drum 0.050 - 0.060" if using his brake. I forgot to list that as one of the holes to drill. Lots of drilling and deburring to do!
Also do you replace the OEM output carrier thrust washer and replace it with a self lubricating thrust washer? Happen to have a part number on that washer? I believe it's number 268 circled in red below?
That's a 4L60E Input Sun Gear....No good on a 4L80E as the lube circuits are completely different.Is the sun gear mod worth doing?
That's a 4L60E Input Sun Gear....No good on a 4L80E as the lube circuits are completely different.
That is correct!So with regards to measuring endplay, per some of your notes in other threads:
Checking Forward Hub to Direct Drum end play,
Stack the gear train up to the Direct drum, Place the Forward Hub over the Main Shaft, Hold the forward hub down with your palms & lift the direct drum with your fingers.....The play you feel is the end play. Since I will be using a billet rollerized forward hub from jakes, the end play should be zero for this measurement then?
I used to do this by feel....But member P10crew built me a (Absolutely Beautiful) fixture for doing it. You just need it stacked to the Center Support.....Hold/Push down on the Center Support & Lift up on the Reaction Carrier.On a stock setup, that would have end play, where should the endplay measurement be taken and should a feeler gauge or SAE Dial Test Indicator be used?
Reaction Carrier to Center Support looks like endplay should be .008"-.015".
To measure Reaction Carrier to Center Support endplay, I stack the gear train up to the Direct drum, Place the Forward Hub over the Main Shaft, Hold the forward hub down with my palms and lift up the center support to separate it from the Reaction carrier?
NO.....Assemble the unit up to the Center Support (with the beveled Snap Ring installed).....You DO NOT need the Reaction Carrier installed for this! Makes it easier/lighter as it does not affect rear endplay.To measure total rear unit endplay, I just lift up on the output shaft while the transmission is in the holder completely assembled using the SEA dial, correct?
Input Shaft needs to be pointing straight up, Now.....There IS free play between the OD Carrier & Input Shaft Snap Ring.To measure front unit, I flip the trans over completely assembled and lift up on the input shaft?
Total Rear Unit.....003"-.008" (Rollerized)
Reaction Carrier to Center Support......008"-.015"
Direct Drum to Forward Hub......003"-.008" (Rollerized)
Front unit.....005-.008" more/greater than the Rear Unit
Those are correct specs