4k/1 month, can I extend 5 months more to 20k miles if I have Mobil1 5w30 supersyn?

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Car doesn't consume oil. 94k miles. Lots of highway driving, maybe 95% highway, 5% city. Highway speeds 55-75mph, but the city drive is stop and go 10-30mph! Average ambient temp is about 32F, car has 94kmiles now. I drive gently, I use cruise control for highway trips. I don't idle car in the morning, I just start car, buckle up, turn radio, then back-out of driveway.

On daily drive, it sees 10miles on highway to work, then home for lunch, backto work, then pm rush hour...

On weekend, I travel highway.
 
I wouldn't do it. It exceeds even the mileage claims for Mobil 1 EP. Perhaps you should think about Amsoil. It would seem that your driving pattern would fit Amsoil usage better.
 
I don't see why you couldn't extend under these conditions with Mobil1, an oil that is just as good as Amsoil in the extended drain department.

The bigger question might be why you are using expensive Mobil1 when you have very cheap Esso XD-3 0W30 full synth HDEO available to you in Canada.
 
I'd take the Esso XD-3 0W-30, do a UOA at 10k miles. Then depending on the results of that UOA, extend your OCI out until you find the limit.
 
What am I missing here? Your topic title say 4k/1month ..and you wonder if you can extend it to 5 months/20k
quote:

On daily drive, it sees 10miles on highway to work, then home for lunch, backto work, then pm rush hour...

Here I can't account for more than 200 miles a week ..800/month ..that leaves about 3200 divided between 4 weekends EVERY weekend.

So do you take a 400 miles trip one way every weekend??

You'ld be an ideal candidate for a number of tests ..you don't happen to have an OLM, do you??


Otherwise - I agree with pitzel and Palut. Do a 10-12k UOA (well within reason for a synth under your service) and see what's up. Go from there.
 
no I don't drive 400miles every weekend,

but I drove 1500 miles last christmas and 1500 miles on new years. And I will be doing it on spring break, 1500 miles, and easter long weekend 1500 miles. add another 1000 miles going around during those long weekends plus some weekends might be 400 mile trips to ski resorts in quebec, and other misc. trips elsewhere..

that's about 1500 x 4 + 1000 x 2 = 8k miles
then about 400 x 6 (ski trips) = 2.4k miles
daily drive to work 40x5(days)x24(weeks) = 4.8k miles
daily after work drive 30x5(days)x24(weeks)= 3.6 miles
TOTAL = 18k miles in 6 months... (I do get 32mpg on highway)

so I am anticipating about 17-20k by MAY when weather is warm enough to change oil..

As for the XD-3 5w30 or 0w30, I can't find it in Walmart. Plus I bought the mobil1 on sale @ canadian tire @ $4.99/qrt so it wasn't expensive..
 
18,000 miles on Mobil 1 has already been demonstrated.

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/mobil1.html

In that test they needed to add oil to top-off and performed a filter change. Your usage cycle may be easier on your oil and will compensate for this.

However, we have no idea on how YOUR engine will degrade the oil. Thus a UOA is prudent to check that you don't have something like a very small coolant leak into the oil, which could be easily masked by frequent oil changes.
 
It might be fine but I wouldn't do it. Once the oil does start to degrade it is an exponential process. Acids build up, particulates if the filter goes into bypass, contaminants will drop out of suspension, and wear can become very fast.

Also there is also the possibility that you have a small coolant leak, fuel dilution, or another issue that would reduce the effectiveness of the oil.

It's not worth the risk if you care about the engine.

- Glenn
 
I, too, would give the Esso XD-3 0w30 a go, doing UOAs. If you don't get the results you want then run M1 EP. Each make/model of car has different oil requirements and longevity so one can't offhand say how long/far an oil is good for.
 
I looked at all the 626 4cl 2.0 in the used oil test area. Most were running M1 , Redline and other syns at shorter 0CI - usually around 5000 and none of them looked very good.

What a leap of faith to push the same motor another 15000 miles. I'd test it after the first 5000 and see if you're better than the other 626
owners.
 
Here was my M1 2.0L FS Mazda engine UOA from a while ago: http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=001904

I don't go farther than 5k OCIs b/c the HLAs in my Mazda start to tick when I hit ~6k miles on the oil. They like clean oil.

You might be able to go 10 or 15k, but I'd UOA it at 7-8k and go from there. Or instead of spending cash on UOAs, do a 7500 OCI and during the winter just take your car to walmart and ask them to use your oil and its still a cheap OC.
 
ok guys, i thought M1 should hold up longer? but most of you are suggesting that I dump this oil sooner, what gives? I thought highway driving should be very easy on oil.

how will acid form? Car is driven daily. Also how much crap does it take to make the filter bypass? (BTW oil filter is SUPERTECH plus i have new air filter, and PCV pipe, and new spark plugs too;) I doubt engine will create that much crap in such short time (10k/2 months in mind)..as for coolant leak, coolant is new, and level has been steady for the past 4 months since timing belt and waterpump's been replaced, so I thing there is zero leak.

And I thought synthetic will hold up very well, expecially easy driving habits.

The reason I put synthetic M1 in first place is because I was anticipating long drives ahead, and change it after 6 months... looks like whatever we wanted to prove here in BITOG that synthetic oil can hold up to longer OCI collapses in my situation...
 
Mobil 1 would handle it just as well as Amsoil. Mobil 1 is very capable of long drains.
 
Oils aren't 'designed' for certain intervals. The Mobil1 claim of 15k miles is pure marketing, and little else. It is based on empirical evidence and actuarial assumptions made by the company based on how many engines they believe will need to be replaced under their warranty scheme.

Mobil1 EP might be good for 100k miles in Engine A, but only good for 10k miles in Engine B, 3k miles in Engine C, or somewhere inbetween in Engine D.

Ultimately you need to find out what situation is applicable to your vehicle, and then make a determination based on a combination of actual UOA evidence, or the UOA evidence given by others using similar oil.

For instance, I decided on a 40k mile drain interval for my early 1990s (before the coolant leak problems started showing up) GM 3.1L V6 engine and Esso XD-3. I had one UOA done fairly early on to determine that I didn't have a coolant leak problem, and am confident that my projected 6-year/40k mile planned interval is both appropriate, realistic, and effective.

p.s. given that UOA from that 93 Mazda MX6, one can use M1 or Esso XD-3 0W-30 with confidence over a 20k mile interval in that engine. I prefer XD-3 0W30 obviously because its more robust, and costs less (buy at an Esso bulk dealer, not Wal-Mart).
 
Did you buy the standard Mobil1, or the extended performance Mobil1? If you bought the EP version, I would think you could do easily do 15k miles (but do a UOA as others have suggested).
 
Wow! 6years/40000mile OCI for XD-3. That has got to be the longest OCI I have read about here at BITOG! What is your TBN at the end of such a long run?
 
It's not rocket science. I have the same Mazda engine. When I run whatever oil, syn or dino, too far its HLA make noise as the oil get worse.
I was looking at oil tests for your model Mazda 4
and they show higher copper which I quess is dual cam gear and higher lead at 5K OIC. I just searched 626 2.0 but you can search probe 2.0 and MX6 2.0. In some ways its a great BITOG motor. If I'm down a gt the HLA sound off.

That's the value in BITOG. You can see the same oils run in your car. It's harder to get a test of the same oil run in your car under the same conditions. That's why I test. I just don't
see the risk reward of running 20K then testing and saying I shouldn't have done that. Testing at 5k shows where you're headed even if wear slows down some on longer OIC. If you want to save $20 on not testing IMO you should stick to 5K to 7.5K OIC as you can get another jug of M1 at WM for the price of a test.
 
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