I do know some that used the Amsoil 5w30 on a Ford F150 5.4 liter V-8(manual states a 5w-20). Works fine, don't really need a higher viscosity for casual driving. Also do know one that uses the Amsoil 20w-50 but he tows a large boat. OCI is 5,000 miles/yearly.
40 weights in Ford 4.6
- Thread starter erogers
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No the cars dont blow the filters off anymore. That was an internal oil pump bypass valve problem that ford fixed. And as government worker I have no control over the products they buy or tell us to use. I guess that makes me a dummy mechanic Nick.
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They do if dummy police mechanics use SAE 50!
That was happening from using 10w30. The heavier oil allowed the bore in the pressure relief valve to wear so that the valve would stick open. Cold start-up with no pressure relief, especially with thicker oil and off the filter went.
IIRC the pressure relief valve was improved by the 1994 or 1995 model year.
Strangely enough, it came back in 99 where it plagued the modular V6 (Duratec).
Good info Big Jim
Ford reversed...Driver Returns On Foot..
If you want to use a 5W-40, I would limit its use to hot weather. I will tell you my neighbor kid's experience with the Rotella (a good oil, BTW) in his high mileage 9000CD turbo Saab. He was using SuperTech 10W30 syn during the winter months and switched to the 5W-40 when it got warmer. He said there was a noticeable loss in power, especially when he first takes off. I attributed this to the heavier oil in the turbo, making it spool up a little less quickly with a cold engine.
If you are not consuming or leaking oil, why not just stick with a stout 5w30 or 10w30? Maxlife, Schaeffers, Amsoil, Redline, Pennz. Pt, etc.....say even a 5w30 winter and 10w30 summer? Unless you are doggin the snot out of it, any retail oil should do fine.
If you are not consuming or leaking oil, why not just stick with a stout 5w30 or 10w30? Maxlife, Schaeffers, Amsoil, Redline, Pennz. Pt, etc.....say even a 5w30 winter and 10w30 summer? Unless you are doggin the snot out of it, any retail oil should do fine.
^
Yeah . . . Valvoline MaxLife 10w30 would do nicely.
Yeah . . . Valvoline MaxLife 10w30 would do nicely.
The Amsoil 5w30 and 0w30 thickened up to 40 weights in my 4.6 but it was not noticeable in any way. Power felt the same, fuel economy was the same, and it still idled very smoothly.
I commenting on a specific instance in Florida, where a police dept' was still using SAE 50 after Ford had spec'd 5W-20 for the modular V-8s.
Hence the term for the state Flor-i-DAH!!!
What brand name oil did you most in the car?
For the first 20,000 miles or so, I used Motorcraft oil, since I was having the changes performed at the dealership. Then, I began doing the oil changes myself, and I used primarily Valvoline and Castrol. I switched to high mileage oil at 75,000 miles (Maxlife and Castrol High Mileage), with an oil change of Syntec thrown in every couple OCIs. I'm currently running Castrol GTX, in my first cleaning phase of Auto-RX. I only put about 7,500 miles per year on this car. I make very short trips to my work (7 miles round trip), with occasional weekend trips thrown in for good measure.
I had to resurrect this topic because I found some interesting information yesterday. I recently purchased one of the big, thick (and expensive) official shop manuals for my T-Bird. The shop manual specs my 4.6 for 10w30! My owner's manual specifies 5w30. What gives? According to the shop manual, the V6 is the only engine requiring 5w30. I'm starting to wonder if any "sane" weight of oil would work just fine, provided the outside temperature is appropriate for it.
Manufacturers spec 10w30 if they think that the engine will chew conventional 5w30 out of grade or worse. Introduction of 5W-20's that met the Ford spec solved those problems for the 4.6L. Sane oils for the 4.6L are thin 30's and thick 20's of highest quality.
Actually, it means Driver Roasted Over Fire.
all I've owned are fords, and none of them have left me stranded yet.
I've owned many other cars from various American and foreign companies. I've never had a car as reliable and trouble-free as my T-Bird. None. I'm trying to keep this one forever!
FORD
My CV has the same engine, with 106K on the clock(plus all that idle time...). I was told by the guy who sold it to me that all the fleets around here operate 5w30 in them. I plan on keeping mine in a steady 5w30 conventional diet that its used to. It does not leak or consume any at all.
He told me that even the newer cruisers are given 5w30 because that way they only need to stock 1 oil weight in bulk. And he said most of the shops trust it more than the 5w20 the new ones are speced for.
He told me that even the newer cruisers are given 5w30 because that way they only need to stock 1 oil weight in bulk. And he said most of the shops trust it more than the 5w20 the new ones are speced for.
A 95 tbird has the first revision of the 4.6L engine. They are known for leaky valve stem seals, and usually burn oil.
I would stick with a high mileage oil and keep the oil up, it will run forever. 5w30 or 10w30.
I had a race 99 mustang motor in my 96 thunderbird, which was supercharged and had a rich tune (42 pound injectors, etc).
The vortech blower would beat up 5w30 oils and shear it down. I was running 5w40 shell synthetic rotella t in there, it worked great for my application but a stock application here is the rule..
Early 4.6L motors, use a 5w30 or 10w30.
Newer 99+ motors, use a 5w20 motorcraft only.
Always use a motorcraft filter in this thing, nothing else.
I would stick with a high mileage oil and keep the oil up, it will run forever. 5w30 or 10w30.
I had a race 99 mustang motor in my 96 thunderbird, which was supercharged and had a rich tune (42 pound injectors, etc).
The vortech blower would beat up 5w30 oils and shear it down. I was running 5w40 shell synthetic rotella t in there, it worked great for my application but a stock application here is the rule..
Early 4.6L motors, use a 5w30 or 10w30.
Newer 99+ motors, use a 5w20 motorcraft only.
Always use a motorcraft filter in this thing, nothing else.
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