-40 Temp Oil

I live 180 miles (300 kms) north of Williston. Actual -40 air temperatures (windchill or “what it feels like” are irrelevant) are rare. My choice is TGMO 0W8 or Mobil 1 0W8 and 0W20 for the vehicles in my signature. If parked outside, I use a block heater for 3-4 hours. I once installed an oil pan heater on a truck I owned. I’m sure it was great but I don’t know anyone else who uses one.

People like my dad and brothers use whatever synthetic 5W30 is on sale, plug in the block heater when necessary and go. In the 80s and 90s we did the same. Don’t overthink it - the locals don’t and we have lived here for decades.

I idle the vehicles long enough to see out of the windshield - which if during daylight hours, is no more than 30 seconds. Drive gingerly until the coolant begins to warm up.

I marvel at how well vehicles work in our extreme climate. This week we’re expected to hit 38 degrees Celsius or 100 degrees farenheit. During the winter we will hit the -30s for sure and potentially -40. Vehicles simply don’t skip a beat. Take it from someone who has lived here for 45 years.
 
Look for a 0W-16 with a low CCS and MRV on the spec sheet.

You won't find many oils better than Pennzoil Platinum 0W-16, with a CCS of 4,000 cP and MRV of 9,100 cP.

If I can find some sort of plug in heater that keeps the water warmer and basically has it blowing warm air immediately I'll gladly use that.
A block heater will increase coolant temperature by around 30-40°C within 4 hours, and will heat the oil a bit as well. The air from the heater won't exactly be warm in -40 weather, but it will help. There are circulating coolant heaters in the 800-1000W range that install in line with coolant hoses, and will get the engine a lot warmer.

Oil pan heaters aren't nearly as effective, but are cheaper and easier to install. Pad-type heaters work better than magnetic heaters, and they don't require a steel oil pan.

It's also common to block off most of a car's front grille in winter, which helps the engine warm up faster while driving, and also will keep the oil warmer after the engine is up to operating temperature.
 
Your RAV4 likely already has a block heater, all the dealer has to do is supply the extension cord.
The heater cords on GM vehicles are an option and cost about $150 because they are thermostatically controlled, not cutting in above zero F, or minus 18C. The Toyota block heater cords might be the same.
Any engine oil with a 0w winter grade is required for cold starts below minus 35C.
5w is what is mostly used here. Gets down to -60* some winters.
 
As for your quest, get a good brand-name PAO based 0w-16 and you'll be fine.


While I realize that the extended warm up is for your convenience, you're actually not doing the car's engine any favors. Long warm-up idle periods are a bad idea because it causes a few serious concerns:
- more condensation in the exhaust stream means it will degrade the exhaust components sooner (rust, etc)
- more cylinder wash-down can certainly cause more engine wear in the cylinders (we've seen plenty of examples in UOAs here)
- more idle time will also contribute to fuel dilution of the lubricant itself, meaning more OCIs are necessary
- it wastes fuel; money may not matter to you, so that is possibly moot
Warming up the engine for just a couple of minutes at -40F isn't a bad idea. But anything past that is not a good idea and detrimental to the vehicle in the long term. The sooner you get in and start driving (reasonably sane) the sooner the engine will warm up from normal loads.
I regularly see fairly new trucks with 30,000+ engine hours, they stay running all winter, so roughly October to May.
Came across 2 2011s awhile back with almost 60,000 hours.
 
any 0W16 will be more than adequate in extreme cold. in cold that most people have and never will experience. your good to go up to, and above the arctic circle. if your vehicle is well maintained, you will never have to worry about starting.
 
looks like HPL pcmo premium plus 0w-16 or 0w-20 would be a great oil,,pour point of -72 would be a choice worth considering,and a factory installed battery and block heater (cold weather package) also, Rember in cold weather to keep proper tire inflation up to specs.
 
I regularly see fairly new trucks with 30,000+ engine hours, they stay running all winter, so roughly October to May.
Came across 2 2011s awhile back with almost 60,000 hours.
SI engines can run safely for many thousands of hours in the manner you mention because they stay warmed up. Hence, the issues I spoke of such as condensation and cylinder wash aren't nearly as big a thing.

The OPs topic is different. He's talking about multiple cold starts in very cold temps.

Just mentioning the difference for the clarity of others.
 
looks like HPL pcmo premium plus 0w-16 or 0w-20 would be a great oil,,pour point of -72 would be a choice worth considering,and a factory installed battery and block heater (cold weather package) also, Rember in cold weather to keep proper tire inflation up to specs.
Battery trickle charger. Will keep it charged and warm.
Make sure it's not one that doesn't work at only -4* or colder "for safety" like Noco. Utterly usless!
 
SI engines can run safely for many thousands of hours in the manner you mention because they stay warmed up. Hence, the issues I spoke of such as condensation and cylinder wash aren't nearly as big a thing.

The OPs topic is different. He's talking about multiple cold starts in very cold temps.

Just mentioning the difference for the clarity of others.
I don't leave my work truck running unless it's hovering around -30* or colder. Engine is fine plugged in, but we end up blowing steering pumps or hoses, like several a year.

management said keep it running or parked inside when possible.

Doesn't get that cold at home, -25* is about it usually.
 
The oil in my sig is rated to -59F, I think the oil is as versatile as they come and you sure can run it in your engine come winters or summers.
Basically a VW 504/507 certified oil.
 
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