New here, 2002 Grand Prix. L36 with an L67 top end (high compression, supercharged)
Live in southern ontario so temperature difference between seasons can vary quite a bit.
Driving habits range from easy going (longer trips, when its cold) to multiple WOT runs within a short period of time (30 minutes). Never much past the speed limit. Lets say up to 50-80 MPH at most.
Daily trips are generally under 5 KM (~3 mi).
After reading the main article it appears I should have never ran 10W30 despite the owners manual suggesting that is the preferred oil.
I have been rather good in running synthetic (synetec or mobil 1) 5w30 in the winter and 10w30 in the summer.
As of late I've been running quakerstate 5w30 on short drain intervals (under 500 KM) to ensure the motor is nice and clean. (mainly due to the drain plug issue, mentioned further down)
I've had the LIM and VC's off numerous times (added a blower and coolant leaks, what fun) and the motor looks quite spotless.
I've had the heads off twice, those looked rather clean as well.
Which is quite surprising considering the rather low mileage for the age of the vehicle (120 000 km two years ago when I bought it)
Back to the point here:
I recently added a magnetic drain plug to find it was covered in what I would call what looks and feels like a ferrofluid.
Before anyone asks for a UOA, I've ordered my first kit, awaiting delivery.
In the mean time, I'm thinking I should switch to a syn 0W20 in hopes of minimizing what seems like excess wear on the motor.
Running mobil 1 5w30 w/mobil 1 filter I'll see 60-63 PSI cold idle, 33-35 warm idle, 60 psi cruising and 75-80 at 6000 RPM. (6000 is the shift point, redline a couple higher but it doesnt see much more than 6000.)
Thoughts, suggestions?
In case anyone brings up the 04+ 5w30 specification, GM also used a different oil pressure releif valve and spring which resulted in 5-10 more PSI. I'm still running the stock series II (pre 04) spring and valve.
Another thing I never took into consideration, waiting for the oil to warm up in addition to the coolant.
Typically 170-180 * ECT I'd consider it "okay" to get into boost but not take it much past 4000 RPM.
In retrospect, that was rather dumb.
In addition to syn 0W-20 I've been considering the following:
- 04+ oil pressure relief valve.
- http://www.sinisterdd.com/modules/smartsection/item.php?itemid=287
- http://www.sinisterdd.com/modules/smartsection/item.php?itemid=41
The guy who designed those sinister parts got into modifying the blocks oiling system, I haven't followed up on this but since a full rebuild is far from something i'm considering (170-180 PSI compression warm).
But you can't always trust the salesmen.
Live in southern ontario so temperature difference between seasons can vary quite a bit.
Driving habits range from easy going (longer trips, when its cold) to multiple WOT runs within a short period of time (30 minutes). Never much past the speed limit. Lets say up to 50-80 MPH at most.
Daily trips are generally under 5 KM (~3 mi).
After reading the main article it appears I should have never ran 10W30 despite the owners manual suggesting that is the preferred oil.
I have been rather good in running synthetic (synetec or mobil 1) 5w30 in the winter and 10w30 in the summer.
As of late I've been running quakerstate 5w30 on short drain intervals (under 500 KM) to ensure the motor is nice and clean. (mainly due to the drain plug issue, mentioned further down)
I've had the LIM and VC's off numerous times (added a blower and coolant leaks, what fun) and the motor looks quite spotless.
I've had the heads off twice, those looked rather clean as well.
Which is quite surprising considering the rather low mileage for the age of the vehicle (120 000 km two years ago when I bought it)
Back to the point here:
I recently added a magnetic drain plug to find it was covered in what I would call what looks and feels like a ferrofluid.
Before anyone asks for a UOA, I've ordered my first kit, awaiting delivery.
In the mean time, I'm thinking I should switch to a syn 0W20 in hopes of minimizing what seems like excess wear on the motor.
Running mobil 1 5w30 w/mobil 1 filter I'll see 60-63 PSI cold idle, 33-35 warm idle, 60 psi cruising and 75-80 at 6000 RPM. (6000 is the shift point, redline a couple higher but it doesnt see much more than 6000.)
Thoughts, suggestions?
In case anyone brings up the 04+ 5w30 specification, GM also used a different oil pressure releif valve and spring which resulted in 5-10 more PSI. I'm still running the stock series II (pre 04) spring and valve.
Another thing I never took into consideration, waiting for the oil to warm up in addition to the coolant.
Typically 170-180 * ECT I'd consider it "okay" to get into boost but not take it much past 4000 RPM.
In retrospect, that was rather dumb.
In addition to syn 0W-20 I've been considering the following:
- 04+ oil pressure relief valve.
- http://www.sinisterdd.com/modules/smartsection/item.php?itemid=287
- http://www.sinisterdd.com/modules/smartsection/item.php?itemid=41
The guy who designed those sinister parts got into modifying the blocks oiling system, I haven't followed up on this but since a full rebuild is far from something i'm considering (170-180 PSI compression warm).
But you can't always trust the salesmen.
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