30 WT Oil for everything!

[Pete591]

Well the manufacturers tell you to use some form of 30 wt in everything....

-A 3.5 Briggs gets a "30Wt Something".

-A 6.75 Hp Briggs gets a "30WT something".

-A V-twin from 14 HP to 25 HP gets a "30 WT something".

-A big single piston engine gets a "30Wt something".

-Hondas/Briggs/Kawasaki's/Robin/Dhaitsu/Techumseh...the same.


Whether it's hot...cold...extreme service..residential...commercial...one oil viscosity fits all....filter or no filter...I think NOT!

The reason I am going on like this is that my 20 HP Briggs V-Twin is shearing even a synthetic 10w30 to a 20 wt in a few hours (I do the used oil analysis...do the manufacturer's ....probably not..) and many of these engines fail due to bearing failure or piston scuffing issues. I am starting to think a stout Motorcycle oil like Amsoil MCF 10w30 or Mobil 1 4T 10W-40 is needed in my case. I used Mobil 1 15w50 for 15 years....yes after 50 hrs it was sheared to a 30 wt....but that's okay... and 1500 hrs with no problems on my 16 HP Briggs V-Twin... Before going to Motul 20W-50 (too much viscosity) and a non OEM filter (too restrictive) ...then engine failure...so there is a point where oil can be too viscous. But I am thinking a 5W-40 or 10W-40 synthetic is fine...Mobil 1 15w50 as well.

Like V-twin motorcycles...the shearing forces of a 20 HP V-Twin Briggs is just way too much for many oils...too much heat and too much shear.

My .02

 

[JTK]

True. All I can figure is; The manufacturers base their spec on 30wt's being the most readily available and it offers adequate protection over a wide range of conditions. The best protection and engine life? I doubt it. They make money selling engines.

Joel

 

[FZ1]

Just change it out every 30 hours.

 

[Slick 55]

Funny how millions of hours have been logged with nothing more than HD30.

 

[Propflux01]

I always thought those engines called for 30W because in the 'day' people used straight 30W for cars as a standard oil, and was the easiest to get because everyplace had it.

 

[JTK]

Originally Posted By: Brett Miller
Funny how millions of hours have been logged with nothing more than HD30.


That it has. Then again, motor oil technology has come a long way from the $0.49/qt SAE 30 we used to get and use.

Joel

 

[Pete591]

Originally Posted By: Tim H.
I always thought those engines called for 30W because in the 'day' people used straight 30W for cars as a standard oil, and was the easiest to get because everyplace had it.



It's just old habits that die hard.

Now briggs is saying to go with 5w30 Synthetic up to 104*F outdoor ambient temps. Really! In their loose tolerance engines that are loosing bearings and being replaced left and right?

My take is a 5w30 synthetic with about 1200 ppm for winter use.

A 10w30 synthetic with 1200 ppm ZDDP for all BUT V-Twins

A 10W-40 synthetic Motorcycle oil with 1400 ppm ZDDP for big V-Twins.

my .02

 

[Nick R]

So our one year old Briggs 675 has developed a slight knock under load with Craftsman SAE 30. Should I try something else?

 

[lexus114]

Originally Posted By: rudolphna
So our one year old Briggs 675 has developed a slight knock under load with Craftsman SAE 30. Should I try something else?


Mine does the same friggin thing! has done so from new(Toro 20334)I hear the Briggs & Straton sae 30 is very good oil.

 

[RWEST]

Here's a VOA of B&S SAE 30.

I prefer straight Rotella 30 in my summertime lawn/garden equipment.