3.6 liter Chrysler V6

Our last few promasters we sent in for oil cooler leaks to be covered by warranty were repaired by just installing new seals. The service department told me there was a new TSB issued that for any oil cooler leak to be covered by warranty, the shop has to first replace the seals, clean, and recheck for leaks.

Most all of them were fixed by just installing seals, at least it seemed so. It’s really not an easy place to spot your leak immediately. It takes time to seep out and fill the valley up before the leak is obvious.

Seems like this is more of a seal issue, than it is the module being made partially of plastic.

I wonder if using high mileage oil would help to keep the seals in good condition? Maybe a group 5 ester oil additive?
 
Our last few promasters we sent in for oil cooler leaks to be covered by warranty were repaired by just installing new seals. The service department told me there was a new TSB issued that for any oil cooler leak to be covered by warranty, the shop has to first replace the seals, clean, and recheck for leaks.

Most all of them were fixed by just installing seals, at least it seemed so. It’s really not an easy place to spot your leak immediately. It takes time to seep out and fill the valley up before the leak is obvious.
Good to know and thank you for sharing this. Replacing seals is sure cheaper than the whole housing if that’s the actual issue. Which it probably is given it’s an official fix.

Interestingly, there is one port on that housing that is male to female with an o-ring seal and if the rest of the ports were like this, I believe there would be no issues at all.

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Good to know and thank you for sharing this. Replacing seals is sure cheaper than the whole housing if that’s the actual issue. Which it probably is given it’s an official fix.

Interestingly, there is one port on that housing that is male to female with an o-ring seal and if the rest of the ports were like this, I believe there would be no issues at all.

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We replace the whole housing because to go in there and do all that work for it just to leak again would really suck. Ours also leak so profusely that it’s hard to believe it’s just the seals. I think ours may leak more than average because of our maintenance schedules, drivers absolutely beating the piss out of them, and the fact that we contract out quick oil changes on the parking lots for them when we can’t get to them in a timely manner (I think they do a horrible job, drain plugs and oil caps tighter than I could explain!).

I know the guys I work with wouldn't over tighten the filter cap (to the extent I’ve experienced at least). I’ve had to get 1/2” ratchets in there and remove the oil fill neck to get enough leverage to remove the filter caps, and almost every one I need a pipe on a ratchet with a 6 point socket to remove the drain plugs.
 
Guys are just overly optimistic about what they own and inexplicably it seems to be human nature to take it as a personal insult when an object one owns is claimed to be bad.

-It's not just seals.
-Plastic is stupid and just a cost-saving measure, not some genius engineering 4D chess
-There are MANY other failure modes than those that could be explained away by overtightening the cap
-the "just replace the seals" TSB was Chrysler further trying to cut costs, likely because these coolers were -- and sometimes continue to be -- on intergalactic backorder (due to such high failure rates)

In this video he addresses the seal-only TSB (he doesn't seem to be a fan) and addresses ALL the potential failure modes. Information is power but very few will actually take the time to watch the whole vid which addresses and dispels many of the myths put forth in this thread:
 
The thing is that we don’t know and likely won’t know if the aluminum housing fares any better than the plastic one. Everyone just operates on a gut feeling that plastic is bad and breakers easily while aluminum does not.

But like the video above says, there are over 10 million of these engines out there and these housings can fail in multitude of ways. You have to the-use the oil/coolant heat exchanger and oil pressure sensor, these can fail also like the video says. OEM replacement comes with those.

In reality there is no empirical evidence that going with the doorman unit will fix anything or if it does, the re-used components may fail and the job needs to be done again.

So I still maintain that it is not a clear cut that the aluminum housing is the fix.
 
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