Yes, in theory, you squeeze the tabs and pull the heater hose pipe out. In practice, the tabs almost always break. Most auto parts stores will sell the connector as an assembly (in the help section). It will include the metal body, o-ring, and plastic tab thingys.
3.1L V6 LIM Gasket Replacement
- Thread starter benjamming
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Im glad you brought this stuff back up. *makes notes*
onion,
You said that you prefer threadlocker red. I'm looking at the Permatex selector chart. There are 4 types of red (all for no disassembly). I would think either 27140 or 27200. Which one?
#27740 is for diameter > 1" which is not the case here.
Item # 27140 High Strength for Cylinder block studs, rocker arm studs, ring gear bolts, frame bolts, shock absorber bolts Temperature Range: -65°F to 300°F
Item # 26240 Permanent Strength for Cylinder block bolts, ring gear bolts, transmission shaft bolts Temperature Range: -65°F to 300°F
Item # 27200 High Temperature for Camshaft sprocket bolts, idler bearings, press fit filler tubes, transmission input and output shaft threads, ring gear or shock bolts Temperature Range: -65°F to 450°F
You said that you prefer threadlocker red. I'm looking at the Permatex selector chart. There are 4 types of red (all for no disassembly). I would think either 27140 or 27200. Which one?
#27740 is for diameter > 1" which is not the case here.
Item # 27140 High Strength for Cylinder block studs, rocker arm studs, ring gear bolts, frame bolts, shock absorber bolts Temperature Range: -65°F to 300°F
Item # 26240 Permanent Strength for Cylinder block bolts, ring gear bolts, transmission shaft bolts Temperature Range: -65°F to 300°F
Item # 27200 High Temperature for Camshaft sprocket bolts, idler bearings, press fit filler tubes, transmission input and output shaft threads, ring gear or shock bolts Temperature Range: -65°F to 450°F
I really don't think it matters all that much. But I use the locktite 272 all the time at work- which appears to be equivalent to Permatex 27200. That's probably what I would use.
I think most common grades of threadlocker would work- I'd just avoid the 'green' locktite varieties- if a bolt is nice and clean (and dry) and assembled with, for instance, locktite 609... you'll be LUCKY if you can ever get that bolt back out.
272, on the other hand, will definitely keep the bolt from backing off- and will even put up a moderate fight upon removal. But you won't end up breaking the bolt. Most of the blue varieties just don't do much IMO.
I think most common grades of threadlocker would work- I'd just avoid the 'green' locktite varieties- if a bolt is nice and clean (and dry) and assembled with, for instance, locktite 609... you'll be LUCKY if you can ever get that bolt back out.
272, on the other hand, will definitely keep the bolt from backing off- and will even put up a moderate fight upon removal. But you won't end up breaking the bolt. Most of the blue varieties just don't do much IMO.
GM p/n 1052356 is (was) camshaft & lifter prelube per the factory service manual but is no longer a good p/n per the local dealership. Would Redline Asssembly Lube work in its place?
Originally Posted By: benjamming
GM p/n 1052356 is (was) camshaft & lifter prelube per the factory service manual but is no longer a good p/n per the local dealership. Would Redline Asssembly Lube work in its place?
A little bit of motor oil would do the job just fine. There's no need to use an 'assembly lube' of any kind when doing a LIM on the 3.1's.
GM p/n 1052356 is (was) camshaft & lifter prelube per the factory service manual but is no longer a good p/n per the local dealership. Would Redline Asssembly Lube work in its place?
A little bit of motor oil would do the job just fine. There's no need to use an 'assembly lube' of any kind when doing a LIM on the 3.1's.
I agree with the Pitzel.
Although the redline lube WOULD work fine, it's completely unnecessary. Oil will work just as well.
Special cam assembly lube is generally used for breaking in a flat-tappet cam. You, however, have a roller cam. And as far as I know, you aren't messing with either the cam or the lifters. So this is a non-issue.
Although the redline lube WOULD work fine, it's completely unnecessary. Oil will work just as well.
Special cam assembly lube is generally used for breaking in a flat-tappet cam. You, however, have a roller cam. And as far as I know, you aren't messing with either the cam or the lifters. So this is a non-issue.
I am messing with the lifters. They were pretty nasty on the inside once I took the clip out & opened it up. It was just (2) bolts per lifter guide. I know they go back in the same spot so I'm just cleaning them one at a time. Brake cleaner does a good job (j/k). They can only be reinstalled in one of two positions for the guide to fit over them. Does it matter which of those two positions they are reinstalled? The drilled hole will either be at 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock if I remember correctly. I am using Redline Assembly Lube here.
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