250k on Toyota coolant

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have a 2013 tundra with 250K on it . Dont believe the coolant has ever been changed.

Been doing some reading and trying to figure out best options and best coolant to use

Should I just leave it alone, or should I do a simple drain and refill with 50/50 red/Asian coolant

or should I do more of a complete drain, fill and drain with distilled, then add new concentrate to proper ratio?
 
First is how does the coolant look?. Can you see into the radiator with a light and if if cleanish looking do a few drain and fills over a few months . If crusty and ugly report back. Using the proper Toyota coolant is the beast choice.
 
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If the first fill went 250K, I think that Toyota would be my first choice for the final fill.

You can use anything for an in-between cleaning fill... distilled water alone is remarkably corrosive for a short time. I don't have charts and numbers to back it up, but I would go with some kind of quality coolant for the first refill, then finish with Toyota.
 
The coolant is long past it's useful life. I also think that your best option is a simple drain and fill with 50/50 mix of the proper Toyota coolant.
If you fool around with flushes and concentrate, it may take you multiple drains to ensure the proper concentration. You just never know where a slug of water might be hiding.
Another option is to mix the concentrate to your desired concentration, do a drain, then refill with the new stuff.
 
I agree on trying to look in the radiator. At that age, you’re asking for trouble installing and removing hoses if they’ve never been removed.

Personally, if mine, I’d do a drain and fill with the correct Toyota coolant like yesterday. Then figure it out from there.

That may mean some cleaning fluid in there depending upon how clean it is or isn’t. I’d suspect you’ll find it’s very clean in there.

My 96 Ram has its original radiator after 438k. But it’s pretty fouled. It works perfect under full rated payload and long sustained climbs in my area, and I’m hesitant to do any scale remover given that it works.

9D5E2CC8-16E3-4978-B1F1-801443BB3004.jpeg


The yellow coolant in there is JD Cool Gard II, but the fouling is because it’s a brass radiator and cast iron engine... but the fouling I think is due to ages with green...
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I blame green... this is my 1981 MB 240D with all original cooling system. It has had G05 its whole life.

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And here’s my 98 S-10, I’ve owned since new and it’s had Dexcool since new.

F998688A-1A14-4347-9EE8-0D38399497D1.jpeg


I guess we didn’t get the memo that Dex should be sludged up and ruin everything. Especially in this old school system design.

So, point being, I suspect that your system is clean and quite fine, assuming no other coolants were mixed in or other issues have arisen? So the key is to get some new chemistry in there to replenish any depleted chemistry, and the reason to get some fresh in ASAP is to help replenish anything that has a slow reaction to passivate surfaces. Assuming your system works fine, it will buy you time until warmer weather to do any flushes if need be - do it in the spring with multiple courses of distilled water flushing if needed. If no special chemical flush is needed, then leave it, and do another drain and fill with more Toyota coolant in the spring, maybe two or three times to replenish more chemistry, and then keep rolling.
 
If this was my rig, and it doesn't look dirty, I would just drain and fill.

A tip for getting more coolant out of the block if the drain plugs are a pain to reach, is to disconnect the heater hoses, cover the end of one with your thumb and blow some compressed air into the other. Switch when you stop getting more coolant out. Don't use a lot of pressure, BTW, so as not to cause damage and make sure to burp the system if needed.
 
have a 2013 tundra with 250K on it . Dont believe the coolant has ever been changed.

Been doing some reading and trying to figure out best options and best coolant to use

Should I just leave it alone, or should I do a simple drain and refill with 50/50 red/Asian coolant

or should I do more of a complete drain, fill and drain with distilled, then add new concentrate to proper ratio?
As far as I know Toyota coolant is good for 10 yrs, no mileage limit. If this was my rig I'd do a full coolant flush (Toyota dealers have the machine for this) and then use OEM coolant as well (premix 50/50 best) The OE coolant did you well for that many miles why change it?!
 
I’d put the pink or red in it. Our 2004 Camry still has the original coolant in it 279,000 miles later I haven’t changed it and it’s still very clean I plan on doing it when it gets warmer. It’s hard to find the pink stuff or red stuff that’s not prediluted so you will be out of luck there. But I’d put the Toyota back in it or if you prefer an aftermarket one then that’s fine.
 
My 96 Ram has its original radiator after 438k. But it’s pretty fouled.




That is amazing! As you know I worked at a shop that specialized in Radiators and AC. I knew those Dodge truck rad part #'s by heart and likely replaced hundreds due to a broken plastic tank( always the dr side).

I am 100% positive that you're tanks are extreemly brittle and ready to break. Most peoples broke 300k ago.
 
That is amazing! As you know I worked at a shop that specialized in Radiators and AC. I knew those Dodge truck rad part #'s by heart and likely replaced hundreds due to a broken plastic tank( always the dr side).

I am 100% positive that you're tanks are extreemly brittle and ready to break. Most peoples broke 300k ago.

I was very concerned about removing hoses when I was checking the killer dowel pin.

Knock on wood, Ive always been very lucky with plastic tank radiators. The Behr radiators on my three old MBs are also original.
 
Anytime I've changed the coolant on a Honda or Toyota made in the last 15 years old coolant and radiator were in prestine shape every time (regardless of mileage). I wouldn't be expecting anything different in a 13 Tundra with 250K. The official interval is 100K or 120 months so it is due, the FSM only calls for a radiator drain and refill with no flushing required.
 
I have one of those cars where the coolant is never allowed to get old because something always breaks, so it gets topped up. I can't even fathom this.
 
I checked underneath the radiator cap and it looks perfect! super clean and the coolant is still bright pink and clean looking.,

SO I think ill stick with the radiator drain and fill if anything. I will probably track down some of the pink coolant for the refill

Is the ASIAN zerex shown above ok to top off/ mix with what I have now? from description it appears to be the red coolant and i am running the pink
 
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Red and Pink are "close enough". The difference is long life vs ultra long life.

If you have to get concentrate, Pep Boys has a full strength Red made by reco-chem. But the zerex asian is great stuff, use it without worry.

Doing something-- anything-- is better than doing nothing.
 
Ebay has a couple gallons of Toyota pink for $50, after 150k your risking corrosion on the aluminium parts...may do a water pump right away.
 
Good deal. I am going to look through maintenance records again to double check it wasn’t ever serviced. Maybe I missed where previous owner did it. Looks to be in really good shape.

I can get Zerex Asian from Aa for $15 a gallon with coupon code. Probably will pickup a couple gallons and do a drain and fill
 
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