I use ap64 autolites on my 86 Toy truck. whenever the truck's warmed up and i drive away normally,it tends to ping.What i want to do is get 1 colder plug and replace one ap64 with this one to see which cylinder pings.What plug no. do i need?
22r,slight pinging when driving off...
- Thread starter daves66nova
- Start date
- Status
Stock heat range NGK plug is a BP5EAL or BP5EY. You need a BP6EAL or equivalent. I'd bet its a 63.
My guess is your ignition timing is incorrect because you're not using the vacuum advance. At idle your timing with the stock distributor should be 0* with the vacuum advances (2) disconnected and about 8* with the vacuum advances connected.
My guess is your ignition timing is incorrect because you're not using the vacuum advance. At idle your timing with the stock distributor should be 0* with the vacuum advances (2) disconnected and about 8* with the vacuum advances connected.
"My guess is your ignition timing is incorrect because you're not using the vacuum advance. At idle your timing with the stock distributor should be 0* with the vacuum advances (2) disconnected and about 8* with the vacuum advances connected."
You could also have a little carbon in the cyls.
You could also have a little carbon in the cyls.
If the engine has electronically timed spark, tap the engine with a hammer, and if it doesn't change the way the engine runs, you have a failed knock sensor. This doesn't work as well on newer cars because the timing is changed more gradually when the knock sensor detects knock.
Also, if your sensor is bad, buy an OE one, not a cheap one. Most cheap sensors are inaccurate, or fail quickly.
The other 2 posts are also correct.
Also, if your sensor is bad, buy an OE one, not a cheap one. Most cheap sensors are inaccurate, or fail quickly.
The other 2 posts are also correct.
Why junp to plug heat range?
Al sorts of other things could cause this, and the plugs are way down the list. [they are wide heat range extended tip type]
Al sorts of other things could cause this, and the plugs are way down the list. [they are wide heat range extended tip type]
The hotter the engine gets the more you can notice it.No ping at all when cold.I have a carbed engine,no electronics on dist. or knock sensors smog equipment has been removed.timing is around 5*. Vacuum advance has always been connected.
Originally Posted By: daves66nova
The hotter the engine gets the more you can notice it.No ping at all when cold.I have a carbed engine,no electronics on dist. or knock sensors smog equipment has been removed.timing is around 5*. Vacuum advance has always been connected.
If the vac advance is connected and you can confirm it is working with a timing light, then it is more likely a cylinder carbon issue, poor fuel issue, lean running issue (dirty carb), or even a cooling issue that is letting the engine run too hot (thermostat, clogged coolant passages, deteriorating radiator, incorrectly mixed coolant, etc)
The 22R is a fantastic motor! One thing to check, if you have never done a timing chain/tensioner the tensioner can fail and damage the housing mixing oil and coolant. Make sure the pinging you are hearing isn't the chain slapping around or something.
The hotter the engine gets the more you can notice it.No ping at all when cold.I have a carbed engine,no electronics on dist. or knock sensors smog equipment has been removed.timing is around 5*. Vacuum advance has always been connected.
If the vac advance is connected and you can confirm it is working with a timing light, then it is more likely a cylinder carbon issue, poor fuel issue, lean running issue (dirty carb), or even a cooling issue that is letting the engine run too hot (thermostat, clogged coolant passages, deteriorating radiator, incorrectly mixed coolant, etc)
The 22R is a fantastic motor! One thing to check, if you have never done a timing chain/tensioner the tensioner can fail and damage the housing mixing oil and coolant. Make sure the pinging you are hearing isn't the chain slapping around or something.
A quick fix is to go up a grade in octane.
Originally Posted By: daves66nova
The hotter the engine gets the more you can notice it.No ping at all when cold.I have a carbed engine,no electronics on dist. or knock sensors smog equipment has been removed.timing is around 5*. Vacuum advance has always been connected.
Is it 0* with the Vaccuum disconnected?
The hotter the engine gets the more you can notice it.No ping at all when cold.I have a carbed engine,no electronics on dist. or knock sensors smog equipment has been removed.timing is around 5*. Vacuum advance has always been connected.
Is it 0* with the Vaccuum disconnected?
Tried higher octane,no luck .It's at 5* right now,vac disc. when checked.Had engine suck in water during driving to clean out.Nothing.Should i change 1 plug at a time to a colder one to see if that helps now?
If the plugs are the wrong heat range, yes.
If stock, no.
thermostat/cooling system and EGR need checking.
If stock, no.
thermostat/cooling system and EGR need checking.
Cooling system works great.No egr connected.I do run a Holley/Weber carb.ALL smog equipment has been removed.
With the base timing set to 5*, vac disconnected, does it go up to about 10-12* with both vacuum hoses connected?
The decel part of the diaphragm is non-functional.
There is no decel side in the vacuum advance. The 22r is different and uses an idle advance, the other is normal vac advance. That's what I've been getting at.
With your base timing set to 5* the timing is advanced 5* too much through the entire centrifugal timing range. That means if the timing is supposed to be 20* at 1500 RPM it's now 25*. Your max centrifugal is now 30+* when it should be around 25-28.
That will cause pinging for sure.
With your base timing set to 5* the timing is advanced 5* too much through the entire centrifugal timing range. That means if the timing is supposed to be 20* at 1500 RPM it's now 25*. Your max centrifugal is now 30+* when it should be around 25-28.
That will cause pinging for sure.
I've applied suction to both and only one advances the timing.The other one doesn't do anything.The functional one is connected to a ported source.
Originally Posted By: tom slick
With your base timing set to 5* the timing is advanced 5* too much through the entire centrifugal timing range. That means if the timing is supposed to be 20* at 1500 RPM it's now 25*. Your max centrifugal is now 30+* when it should be around 25-28.
That will cause pinging for sure.
It only pings when i start to accelerate to around 1300-1400 or so,nothing after that,not even on freeway.
With your base timing set to 5* the timing is advanced 5* too much through the entire centrifugal timing range. That means if the timing is supposed to be 20* at 1500 RPM it's now 25*. Your max centrifugal is now 30+* when it should be around 25-28.
That will cause pinging for sure.
It only pings when i start to accelerate to around 1300-1400 or so,nothing after that,not even on freeway.
First, ditch the autolite plugs. NGK or DENSO.
Find a good vacuum advance module.
Set the timing to spec, IF you have correct vacuum readings at idle and light load cruise TO the vacuum advance module.
Check the mechanical advance for free movement and return.
What is your idle speed?
REcent valve adjust?
timing steady at 2k rpm? or bounce around?
Find a good vacuum advance module.
Set the timing to spec, IF you have correct vacuum readings at idle and light load cruise TO the vacuum advance module.
Check the mechanical advance for free movement and return.
What is your idle speed?
REcent valve adjust?
timing steady at 2k rpm? or bounce around?
Not really a 22R specific thing, but on some engines with EGR systems, the engine will ping between the 1300-1400 rpm area when accelerating if the EGR system is clogged, deleted, or otherwise not working.
The engine may be running lean/hot through this RPM range for emissions and uses the EGR system to cool the combustion chamber reducing NOX emissions.
If the EGR is deleted, you may just have to tune fatter in this range, or retard timing?
The engine may be running lean/hot through this RPM range for emissions and uses the EGR system to cool the combustion chamber reducing NOX emissions.
If the EGR is deleted, you may just have to tune fatter in this range, or retard timing?
- Status
